Here performing a customer care package,,,,replacing the vacuum pump on a n63,,,,,you have to remove the heat shield ,,,,,just the passengers side heat shield,,,,,you can pry it out it just takes some time and patience .
I don’t know if you can see the vacuum pump down there,,,,it’s really in a tight spot,,,,BMW use to pay us 4 hours to replace,,,,,now BMW only pays us about 2 hours,,,,they found out we were beating the allowed work time,,,,,sucks for us ,,,,good for BMW.
bmwtechnician 
Can you please explain why the Vacuum Pump is under CCP? What is the possible failure?
Thank You!
LikeLike
The customer care package is just that,,,,it is problems that BMW knows about the car,,,,and there are certain parts that BMW has us inspect and replace them to make the customer happy with there car,,,,the vacuum pump was known to leak oil,,,,so we have to inspect the part number on the vacuum pump,,,,and if it isn’t the latest part number then we replace it with the newest and latest part number to make the customer happy,,,,,I hope this helps
LikeLike
This is F10 or F11 550i ?
LikeLike
This was a F10,,,,it doesn’t matter,,,the CCP was for all N63 engines didn’t matter which car it was in.
LikeLike
Do you have any tips on how to remove lower passenger side heat shield (I’m stuck on this step)? I’ve removed all the bolts and it seems to be wedged by the vacuum pump. Last time I felt so lost was when replacing the by-pass Y-hose 😉
LikeLike
Are you sure you have all the bolts out,,,,there is that one under the car on the passengers side by the firewall,,,,and there is that clip that the heat shield slides into that can cause a problem,,,you must bend that clip so it will release the heat shield
LikeLike
My vacuum pump is leaking oil, which is coming out of a hole in one of my turbo wastegate actuators. BMW extended the warrantee to 10 years/120k on the vacuum pump, so I think I can get them to fix that. I’ll have to deal with the actuator. However, is there going to be oil in the vacuum tank that could pose a problem that I should get them to fix as well?
LikeLike
Have them check the tanks and the lines,,,,they should cover it all due to damage from the vacuum pump
LikeLike
My 2011 Bmw F02 had customer care package at 32k miles. No vacuum pump was replaced however. I have 41k miles. I lose power brakes at slow speeds either forward or reverse. In fact if I put the brake pedal rapidly I will instantly lose power brakes. I am handy. What part should I buy . Vacuum pump, check valve , power booster or master. Fluid is clean and full. No codes are triggered as well.
LikeLike
It’s really hard to tell what wrong without checking the vacuum pump and braking systems,,,,you need to see if you have enough vacuum from the pump and then check to see if the check valve is holding,,,,then check to see if the booster is holding vacuum,,,,,a job like this when dealing with brakes I would let a technician diagnose the problem,,,,we don’t need you to get into a accident.
LikeLike
My vacuum pump warranty was extended for 10 years and 120k miles by BMW. You might check to see if you have the same deal.
LikeLike
That’s fine I will check, My local dealer last week said no warranty for anything and said normal rate for diagnosis… and to leave the car there for days (with no loaner). I will go another dealership next town over and see if any additional warranty. My second option would be…… If I am going to spend 2 hrs on diagnosis at dealership should I just purchase a vacuum pump new for same amount any install myself. if is not that, I would then purchase power brake booster.
LikeLike
I would first find out what the problem is,,,,replacing the vacuum pump or the brake booster are not easy jobs,,,,,the vacuum pump is behind bank 1 cylinder head and you have to remove the heat shield by the firewall which are not easy,,,,and the brake boost is a really tight fit and then you have to do a special bleeding procedure for the brakes and DSC unit.
LikeLike
I put in water pump , stent and vacuum pump on my prior E66 N62 that eventually blew head gasket upon the Alt bracket oil leak. Had a 99 and 04 7 series . Have this and new G11. That’s why they did customer care package as I was screwed with all my prior 7s. Spending 250 at dealership to figure out what’s wrong when I can throw in a vacuum pump that is greater than 50% probability is bad I thought would be a wiser decision
LikeLike
I like your drive to do this,,,,the vacuum pump on the E66 N62 was in the front and really easy,,,,on the N63 you will have to get under the car to remove one of the heat shield bolt on the passengers side,,,,you will also have to climb on top of the engine to reach the bolts for the vacuum pump,,,,it sounds like you have your mind made up to do this,,,,good luck and take your time.
LikeLike
Well I was just about to purchase a vacuum pump and found out it was replaced in Jam 2016 when the N63 customer care was done. Would this part fail so quickly and I assume out of warranty. It’s a 2011. Only 10k miles since customer care
LikeLike
I don’t think the part would fail that quickly,,,,besides the part might be covered under the 2yr parts and warranty coverage if it is bad.
LikeLike
well just want to close out the loop. The vacuum pump was bad again after the install in Jan 2016. Thank you for pointing out the 2 year warranty. My original dealership did not offer anything. Went to the neighboring dealership and they confirmed part was under warranty, replaced it for free and offered loaner car. Restored my faith in BMW and will use this dealership in the future.
LikeLike
Glad everything worked out👍
LikeLike
what are the symptoms when the vacuum pump is failing? does it make a loud whistling kind of noise when starting up when cold?
LikeLike
Nope,,,,there really isn’t any special noise it makes,,,,the vacuum pump either leaks oil or stops making vacuum.
LikeLike
hi I am currently experiencing symptoms that I believe are due to a vacuum pump failure.
ac is not working and braking is bad only when I am parking between two cars or any tight spot. I have to press the brakes really hard. I called cust care and they said my 550 2011 has warranty until 120k , will I have to still pay diagos fee at dealer ship if vacuum pump is the cause?
LikeLike
There will be a diagnostic fee,,,,but if the problem is covered then the diagnostic fee will be waived
LikeLike
Hi again I still have another problem hoping you can help? I had coolant leaking from turbo cooling lines on top of engine which I replaced. Worked for a couple of weeks but now when I am moderately driving after I come to a stop you can see white smoke coming from engine which smells like coolant and this time not from coolant lines. I am also smelling coolant from cabin when using heat to clear up my windows and cant stand the smell in the car.
LikeLike
Ok this is going to be hard to explain,,,,the problem might be the coolant by-pass hose which goes to both cylinder heads and to the waterpump pipe,,,,,you might be able to see the hose behind and under the alternator,,,,,look behind the alternator and all the hose and maybe you will see some coolant.
LikeLike
Look at page 123 and 125 of this DIY I wrote. You’ll see the coolant by-pass hose (I called it the turbo bypass hose but it doesn’t have anything to do with the turbos).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ukx902y86l6qf2y/TurboRebuildDIYSmaller.pdf?dl=0
I’ve replaced this twice, and I highly recommend pulling the alternator (disconnect the battery first! Been shocked twice now!).
The aftermarket version seems more robust.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks guys I’ll have a look at the pic and work on it tom, today was incredibly windy. I’m shopping for a m5 2014 comp package this summer hopefully it doesn’t have annoying mini problems like this n63
LikeLike
Ok so I checked under and behind alternator and I def can see antifreeze leaking very slowly. But it’s enough to see fresh blue liquid dripping below so my question now is how much do I have to take off to replace that hose and what part number is it? Is there an aftermarket that’s more durable?
LikeLike
Is this it ?
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/17127575431-MFG9.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1Nytz8ul2gIVSwaGCh1QNAwlEAQYASABEgI-tPD_BwE
LikeLike
No. This is what I used:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-coolant-hose-rein-17127576363
It looks beefier than in the picture. The BMW OEM is really small and brittle when coolant drips on it. I’m hopeful that the aftermarket will be better.
LikeLike
That’s the correct hose
LikeLike
No that not the hose
LikeLike
Do I have any chance to change the vaccum pump without to put the car on to a hydraulic lift?
–>Can the heatshield be removed only from the top of the engine?
Thank you!
LikeLike
hello, for some day, I have a strong suction by the oil filler cap, can you tell me if it is the vacuum pump or the pcv which is defective?
LikeLike
It’s probably the PCv which is defective.
LikeLike
I just replaced my CCV hoses (OEM) now i have a huge amount of vacume in the crankcase. It takes a lot of effort to remove the oil cap when idleing. I also get a whistling noise from the back if the engine down low. It goes away when i remove the oil cap. Is there some sort of regulator that is supposed to control vacume? Im not sure what to look at next. The car runs and drives fine and no codes.
LikeLike
What type of engine are we talking about,,,,your problem probably is the whole valve cover,,,,because on most BMW the crankcase venting system goes through the valve cover,,,,but I need to know what engine you have
LikeLike
The engine is an N63. Twin turbo v8
LikeLike
Ok,,,those do not have the venting inside the valve cover,,,you said you replaced the CCV hoses,,,it sounds like you replaced both crankcase vent hoses that goes to each valve cover with the updated hoses.
LikeLike
That is correct. This is my first direct injection car. Any advise on proper removal and reinstallation of the injectors?
LikeLike
Why do you want to replace the injectors,,,,also you will have to calibrate the new injector once you replace them.
LikeLike
I dont want to replace the injectors. They have to be removed in order to remove the valve covers. I plan on reinstalling them with new seals.
LikeLike
Ok,,,make sure you put the injectors back in the same cylinders,,,,is the valve cover leaking?
LikeLike
No the valve covers are not leaking. If they were, i probably wouldn’t be sucking air through the rear main seal.
LikeLike
The reason im taking off the valve covers is to replace the oil separators. Unless you have any other ideas what is causing excessive vacume in the crankcase. Engine runs smooth and strong with no codes, just excessive vacume
LikeLike
Ok,,,,sounds good
LikeLike
Just waiting for all my parts to arrive. I drilled a small hole in an old oil cap to ease some of the vacume so i don tsuck air through the seals.
LikeLike
That’s interesting
LikeLike