N63 intake vanos solenoid

image This N63 came in with check engine light on,,,the fault was bank 2 intake vanos during cold start,,,,so the vanos unit wasn’t working properly during cold start operations,,,,performed the test play which operates the vanos units and checks there functioning properly.image So what I found during the test is that the vanos solenoid for bank 2 intake was jamming,,,,so to remove the solenoid you have to remove or just loosen and push aside the turbo intake cooler,,,it’s not to bad to remove,,,there are just three bolt holding it in place,,,,one of the bolts is hidden and kind of hard to get to. image Once you move the intercooler,,,,both vanos solenoid are behind the intercooler,,,,the one on top is the intake solenoid,,,,,and it’s the same on bank 1,,,,, the intake solenoid on top and the exhaust one on the bottom,,,,removing it is easy just one bolt and pull it out,,,,slide new on in.image Here are the old and the new,,,new one on the right,,,,you can see the changed the design a little,,,they added a screen mesh over the holes,,,,so no dirt can clog or jam the solenoid valve,,,,because any little dirt that goes inside can cause problems.

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38 Responses to N63 intake vanos solenoid

  1. Alex says:

    Hi, I have question for you, but wasn’t sure how to reach you, where are you located and can you send me your email address? Thanks!

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    • I’m in California,,,,I don’t like to give out my personal email sorry,,,,you can ask me though my blog if you have a question ,,,hopefully I can help

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      • Alex M says:

        Hi, Thanks for the offer, it’s actually regarding the clicking noise from the wheel bearing and the SIB solution to add grease. Your comment there was that it works 50% of the time, otherwise you usually have to put new hubs. My F01 is having that exact same issue, and the dealership wants to apply that SIB-for $780!! For that kind of money, I’d rather just swap out the wheel bearings myself. If I swapped it out (seems like there is a current part that supersedes the original part, but I’d have to order new bolts since it’s threaded differently), would you still have to apply the special grease or in your experience, a new wheel bearing takes care of the issue entirely?

        Finally, I’m in Long Beach, CA and I’m also a Board Moderator for Bimmerfest.com, in case you’d like some referrals, etc. I’ve found your posts to be very informative!

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      • I think your best thing is to put new wheel bearings in the car,,,,,the new updated wheel bearing and bolt seem to fix the problem,,,,no need to put any special grease with new bearings,,,,but you should clean the mating surface with some fine 200 to 300 grit sandpaper,,,,thanks for the info on bimmerfest,,,,I might take you up on that.,,,,I hope this helps

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      • Alex M says:

        Thank you so much, I will do that instead. You can find me in Bimmerfest as user AOM feel free to PM.

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  2. a.a. says:

    So do you think it was dirt that caused the failure? i guess they can’t be cleaned…

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    • Yes I think it was dirt,,,but also this car had low miles 16k on a 2013,,,,sometime I think the car wasn’t driven hard,,,,and things start to gum up inside the engine when it sits.

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  3. Alex M says:

    Just wanted to say that I replaced the wheel bearings. Following the repair guide, I torqued the new bolts to 20nm, then 120nm. I also torqued the pivot arm bolt to 100nm. That was tricky since it wanted to keep spinning, so I gently jacked up the wheel assembly, which then allowed me to torque it to spec. I did not use any threadlocker since no one suggested it (and it wasn’t included in the repair guide).

    So far, have placed 100 miles and it’s super quiet, no clicking sounds and cost me less than they wanted for just applying the grease. Thanks again for your input, I really appreciated it!

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  4. Tyler says:

    So what size is that third hidden bolt. I think it is beyond a little tricky but maybe it is just not my day.

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    • All three of those bolts are 10mm head bolts,,,,this is hard to explain,,,the one hidden bolt is really hard to find,,,,it is almost tucked under the inner cooler and is set in deeply,,,look for a 10mm head bolt with a big washer on it,,,,if you have a mirror,,,,that might help to see it.

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      • Alex says:

        I have a same issue but with exaust solenoid. 130308 Vanos, outlet control error, position not reached.
        130408 Variable camshaft timing control (vanos) exhaust, cold start not controllable.
        I need a pro here for this. I have a 2012 BMW 750i Xdrive. It has 29k miles on it. I recently started having an issue with 130308 code constant with checkengine light. The 130408 only poped up once. I have a snap on scanner that’s the codes that shows. The car would drive normal then it would save drive train malfunction and the car would be half power on the engine very poor acceleration. Sometimes couple days it’s all fine and one day it will do it all day. The cold is there all the time but drive train my function pops up sometimes and some days it drives fine. Change the oil in a seems to be a bit better but next day back to square one. So I have got 2 updated solenoids I have replaced 2 exhaust solenoids. Not the top ones the bottom ones i will Attach pictures. I thought it’s gonna go away but it’s the same crap. What can I do? If it would be mecanical it would be constant but some days it’s drives fine . I need to know are the bottom solenoids for exhaust.? Or do I have to change the upper ones also? Also what can I do to get rid of this problem it’s very annoying and I cant drive normal. Nice car but a biggest piece of **** i ever owned.
        After updating the pcm software to the newest update i only get 1 code now with the cold start and it drops the car in to drivetrain mulfunction. 130408 Variable camshaft timing control (vanos) exhaust, cold start not controllable. What else should i do? I allready replaced the soleboids the bottom ones for exaust.

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      • Ok I probably would also replace the other vanos solenoid just to cover all the bases,,,,and also when you replace the other solenoid I would remove the new ones you put in and make sure they are clean,,,,you can clean them with brake or carb cleaner ok,,,,the new one could have gotten dirty when putting them in,,,,I have had that happen before,,,,,dirty oil can do it also,,,,,also what bank is this happening on,,,,bank 1 or bank 2,,,,, I hope this helps

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  5. Alex says:

    Bank 2
    Thank You i will try that.

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  6. a1 says:

    hi and thank you for your post with pictures it gave me the confidence to change my vanos solenoid on drivers side i was getting exhaust fault ” 130308 VANOS, exhaust: control fault, position not reached and 131408 Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), exhaust, cold start not controllable” i change both solenoids on drivers side only. but before installing i dipped them in seafoam because before finding your blog i pour some seafoam into engine oil and it drove fine for a couple miles but check engine was still present. also this vanos error happened after driving the car with no to low oil to my indy mechanic shop after noticing the line from my oil cooler was leaking. basically im wondering did i clog the new solenoid with seafoam is that why its still a error, does the adaptions need to be reset “dme ram back up”, or is my vanos sprocket messed up.
    i checked the timing on ista+ and it shows good.

    please any help would be greatly appreciated its as if the f01 world is very tiny not that many people to get insight from, also thanks for the bearing recommendations above i also need to do that for my front driver side

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  7. A1 says:

    Hey so I installed 2 new solenoids Same issue still. Any idea

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  8. Phil says:

    Hello, I too sincerely appreciate your post. I have a 2012 X5 and recently experienced a misfire issue shortly after start up and a few days later while passing at highway speed. On both occasions the engine had a significant miss accompanied with a CEL and reduced power warning. After shutting down and restarting everything seems fine. I received the following faults on both occasions: Vanos Intake Cold Start, Misfiring Cylinder 4….also one that is most likely unrelated….tank level sensor. Considering the aforementioned, do you think the Vanos Solenoid replacement is the right direction to resolve the issues ? Your advice would greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

    Like

    • This is a N63 engine correct?,,,,one of the easiest things to element is the ignition coil,,,you should swap ignition coils and maybe spark plug and so maybe swap cylinder 2 and 4 and clear faults and drive it again and see if the fault follows the ignition coils,,,,you either have ignition coil and spark plug going bad,,,maybe fuel injector on cylinder 4,,,,but we need to element something,,,you may have 2 problem,,,the vanos solenoid might be going bad also,,,,,I want to start with one thing at a time and ignition coils and spark plugs are the cheapest and simple

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  9. Phil says:

    So very much appreciated. I’ll follow your recommendations and update you accordingly. Thank you !!!!!

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  10. mickey says:

    Thank you for your blog, I am having this issue with my 2011 BMW X5.0 with N63 motor, after driving the vehicle when i park it then when i return and start it the car throws a orange CEL i have the carly ODB11 wireless reader and its telling me code 002A7D Engine/motor Vanos, Inlet 2 cold start.
    but this goes away if i turn the car off and then restart it and it drives fine.
    Please corect me if i am wrong, this code means that the bank 2 ( driver side (left)) vanos inlet solenoid is acting up and i need to replace it right ?
    the inlet solenoid is the top one (out of the 2 solenoids on the left side)?
    I have ordered the solenoid but i figured i am going to add sea foam to the engine to clean the gunk inside and prevent this from messing up my new solenoid,would you recommend this procedure?

    Like

    • You are correct drivers side upper vanos solenoid,,,,I would replace both vanos solenoids on the drivers side while I’m in that area,,,,I don’t know about the sea foam I have never used it,,,,but I would change the oil and filter

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  11. shawn Bath says:

    Hello. I have a 2010 750li xdrive. 145000 miles. It starts and idle fine. Full throttle acceleration is fine. No check engine light. I can feel a surge at cruise 60 -70 mph. I can downshift to 5th gear and dont notice it anymore. I can see the tach move a little as it surges. I assume just because of less engine load. It will also misfire on light to medium throttle acceleration. Really noticable in 3rd gear. Between 1500 – 2000 rpm. But I can’t get it to turn on cel. I have replaced the following in the last month. Turbo wastegate flapper/valve and bushing, Pressure transducers, bypass valves, vacuum lines, spark plugs, maf sensors, boost/map sensors on intercooler, Pcv lines, Coil packs replaced a year ago and I have swapped old with new and nothing changed. I smoke test intake from turbo down and had no leaks. Check catalytic converter back pressure and its fine. I have ista-d and have looked at everything I can think of and dont see anything out of line. There are no codes for the dme. I forced a misfire by pulling plug off of the coil pack so I could do a injector test. It said injectors are fine. Index 12 injectors. I also verified injector values in dme. I’m not sure where to go now. I dont mind buying injectors but I haven’t convinced myself that’s the issue. I wish it would throw a code so I would have a direction to go. Any suggestions?? Thanks shawn

    Like

    • Wow sounds like you did a lot of work,,,first I would wait until the check engine light comes on because right now you are just going around in circles try to fix something,,,,but this is what you can do is when it starts to misfire I would check the spark plugs to see which one is fuel soaked and that might be your problem.

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  12. chito says:

    hello i got a 2012 x5 xdrive 47k with n63 engine and this morning started to missfire all cylinders on bank 2 i change the spark plugs and coils and it does the same thing i can smell gas on the exhust pipe and blue smoke so it adles bad yesterday was running fine with no problems am i looking to replace the injectors too or my driver side turbo took a crap any ideas

    Like

    • Ok on bank 2 the drivers side, did you notice any fuel soaked spark plugs when you changed them,,,,you might have to remove them again and see which one is fuel soaked and that will tell you which fuel injector is going bad,,,,if you don’t find any fuel soaked spark plugs which sounds hard to believe because you said you smell ful from the exhaust and smoke coming out of the exhaust tells me you have a fuel issue,,,,if no injectors are bad the next ting would be one of the high pressure fuel pumps or the low fuel pressure sensor went bad causing it dump more fuel into the engine.

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  13. Ryan Mindemann says:

    Has anyone tried the generic aftermarket solenoids? They are a lot cheaper but unsure of the results.

    Like

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