N63 intake vanos solenoid

image This N63 came in with check engine light on,,,the fault was bank 2 intake vanos during cold start,,,,so the vanos unit wasn’t working properly during cold start operations,,,,performed the test play which operates the vanos units and checks there functioning properly.image So what I found during the test is that the vanos solenoid for bank 2 intake was jamming,,,,so to remove the solenoid you have to remove or just loosen and push aside the turbo intake cooler,,,it’s not to bad to remove,,,there are just three bolt holding it in place,,,,one of the bolts is hidden and kind of hard to get to. image Once you move the intercooler,,,,both vanos solenoid are behind the intercooler,,,,the one on top is the intake solenoid,,,,,and it’s the same on bank 1,,,,, the intake solenoid on top and the exhaust one on the bottom,,,,removing it is easy just one bolt and pull it out,,,,slide new on in.image Here are the old and the new,,,new one on the right,,,,you can see the changed the design a little,,,they added a screen mesh over the holes,,,,so no dirt can clog or jam the solenoid valve,,,,because any little dirt that goes inside can cause problems.

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97 Responses to N63 intake vanos solenoid

  1. Alex says:

    Hi, I have question for you, but wasn’t sure how to reach you, where are you located and can you send me your email address? Thanks!

    Like

    • I’m in California,,,,I don’t like to give out my personal email sorry,,,,you can ask me though my blog if you have a question ,,,hopefully I can help

      Like

      • Alex M says:

        Hi, Thanks for the offer, it’s actually regarding the clicking noise from the wheel bearing and the SIB solution to add grease. Your comment there was that it works 50% of the time, otherwise you usually have to put new hubs. My F01 is having that exact same issue, and the dealership wants to apply that SIB-for $780!! For that kind of money, I’d rather just swap out the wheel bearings myself. If I swapped it out (seems like there is a current part that supersedes the original part, but I’d have to order new bolts since it’s threaded differently), would you still have to apply the special grease or in your experience, a new wheel bearing takes care of the issue entirely?

        Finally, I’m in Long Beach, CA and I’m also a Board Moderator for Bimmerfest.com, in case you’d like some referrals, etc. I’ve found your posts to be very informative!

        Like

      • I think your best thing is to put new wheel bearings in the car,,,,,the new updated wheel bearing and bolt seem to fix the problem,,,,no need to put any special grease with new bearings,,,,but you should clean the mating surface with some fine 200 to 300 grit sandpaper,,,,thanks for the info on bimmerfest,,,,I might take you up on that.,,,,I hope this helps

        Like

      • Alex M says:

        Thank you so much, I will do that instead. You can find me in Bimmerfest as user AOM feel free to PM.

        Like

  2. a.a. says:

    So do you think it was dirt that caused the failure? i guess they can’t be cleaned…

    Like

    • Yes I think it was dirt,,,but also this car had low miles 16k on a 2013,,,,sometime I think the car wasn’t driven hard,,,,and things start to gum up inside the engine when it sits.

      Like

  3. Alex M says:

    Just wanted to say that I replaced the wheel bearings. Following the repair guide, I torqued the new bolts to 20nm, then 120nm. I also torqued the pivot arm bolt to 100nm. That was tricky since it wanted to keep spinning, so I gently jacked up the wheel assembly, which then allowed me to torque it to spec. I did not use any threadlocker since no one suggested it (and it wasn’t included in the repair guide).

    So far, have placed 100 miles and it’s super quiet, no clicking sounds and cost me less than they wanted for just applying the grease. Thanks again for your input, I really appreciated it!

    Like

  4. Tyler says:

    So what size is that third hidden bolt. I think it is beyond a little tricky but maybe it is just not my day.

    Like

    • All three of those bolts are 10mm head bolts,,,,this is hard to explain,,,the one hidden bolt is really hard to find,,,,it is almost tucked under the inner cooler and is set in deeply,,,look for a 10mm head bolt with a big washer on it,,,,if you have a mirror,,,,that might help to see it.

      Like

      • Alex says:

        I have a same issue but with exaust solenoid. 130308 Vanos, outlet control error, position not reached.
        130408 Variable camshaft timing control (vanos) exhaust, cold start not controllable.
        I need a pro here for this. I have a 2012 BMW 750i Xdrive. It has 29k miles on it. I recently started having an issue with 130308 code constant with checkengine light. The 130408 only poped up once. I have a snap on scanner that’s the codes that shows. The car would drive normal then it would save drive train malfunction and the car would be half power on the engine very poor acceleration. Sometimes couple days it’s all fine and one day it will do it all day. The cold is there all the time but drive train my function pops up sometimes and some days it drives fine. Change the oil in a seems to be a bit better but next day back to square one. So I have got 2 updated solenoids I have replaced 2 exhaust solenoids. Not the top ones the bottom ones i will Attach pictures. I thought it’s gonna go away but it’s the same crap. What can I do? If it would be mecanical it would be constant but some days it’s drives fine . I need to know are the bottom solenoids for exhaust.? Or do I have to change the upper ones also? Also what can I do to get rid of this problem it’s very annoying and I cant drive normal. Nice car but a biggest piece of **** i ever owned.
        After updating the pcm software to the newest update i only get 1 code now with the cold start and it drops the car in to drivetrain mulfunction. 130408 Variable camshaft timing control (vanos) exhaust, cold start not controllable. What else should i do? I allready replaced the soleboids the bottom ones for exaust.

        Like

      • Ok I probably would also replace the other vanos solenoid just to cover all the bases,,,,and also when you replace the other solenoid I would remove the new ones you put in and make sure they are clean,,,,you can clean them with brake or carb cleaner ok,,,,the new one could have gotten dirty when putting them in,,,,I have had that happen before,,,,,dirty oil can do it also,,,,,also what bank is this happening on,,,,bank 1 or bank 2,,,,, I hope this helps

        Like

  5. Alex says:

    Bank 2
    Thank You i will try that.

    Like

  6. a1 says:

    hi and thank you for your post with pictures it gave me the confidence to change my vanos solenoid on drivers side i was getting exhaust fault ” 130308 VANOS, exhaust: control fault, position not reached and 131408 Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), exhaust, cold start not controllable” i change both solenoids on drivers side only. but before installing i dipped them in seafoam because before finding your blog i pour some seafoam into engine oil and it drove fine for a couple miles but check engine was still present. also this vanos error happened after driving the car with no to low oil to my indy mechanic shop after noticing the line from my oil cooler was leaking. basically im wondering did i clog the new solenoid with seafoam is that why its still a error, does the adaptions need to be reset “dme ram back up”, or is my vanos sprocket messed up.
    i checked the timing on ista+ and it shows good.

    please any help would be greatly appreciated its as if the f01 world is very tiny not that many people to get insight from, also thanks for the bearing recommendations above i also need to do that for my front driver side

    Like

  7. A1 says:

    Hey so I installed 2 new solenoids Same issue still. Any idea

    Like

  8. Phil says:

    Hello, I too sincerely appreciate your post. I have a 2012 X5 and recently experienced a misfire issue shortly after start up and a few days later while passing at highway speed. On both occasions the engine had a significant miss accompanied with a CEL and reduced power warning. After shutting down and restarting everything seems fine. I received the following faults on both occasions: Vanos Intake Cold Start, Misfiring Cylinder 4….also one that is most likely unrelated….tank level sensor. Considering the aforementioned, do you think the Vanos Solenoid replacement is the right direction to resolve the issues ? Your advice would greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

    Like

    • This is a N63 engine correct?,,,,one of the easiest things to element is the ignition coil,,,you should swap ignition coils and maybe spark plug and so maybe swap cylinder 2 and 4 and clear faults and drive it again and see if the fault follows the ignition coils,,,,you either have ignition coil and spark plug going bad,,,maybe fuel injector on cylinder 4,,,,but we need to element something,,,you may have 2 problem,,,the vanos solenoid might be going bad also,,,,,I want to start with one thing at a time and ignition coils and spark plugs are the cheapest and simple

      Like

  9. Phil says:

    So very much appreciated. I’ll follow your recommendations and update you accordingly. Thank you !!!!!

    Like

  10. mickey says:

    Thank you for your blog, I am having this issue with my 2011 BMW X5.0 with N63 motor, after driving the vehicle when i park it then when i return and start it the car throws a orange CEL i have the carly ODB11 wireless reader and its telling me code 002A7D Engine/motor Vanos, Inlet 2 cold start.
    but this goes away if i turn the car off and then restart it and it drives fine.
    Please corect me if i am wrong, this code means that the bank 2 ( driver side (left)) vanos inlet solenoid is acting up and i need to replace it right ?
    the inlet solenoid is the top one (out of the 2 solenoids on the left side)?
    I have ordered the solenoid but i figured i am going to add sea foam to the engine to clean the gunk inside and prevent this from messing up my new solenoid,would you recommend this procedure?

    Like

    • You are correct drivers side upper vanos solenoid,,,,I would replace both vanos solenoids on the drivers side while I’m in that area,,,,I don’t know about the sea foam I have never used it,,,,but I would change the oil and filter

      Like

    • JC says:

      Don’t add Seafoam as it won’t do anything. These solenoid valves operate off oil pressure. The seals fail and/or the little filters in side them get clogged up. Just change your oil at 1/2 intervals (~7500 miles) if you don’t already do so after you’re replaced the solenoids.

      Liked by 1 person

  11. shawn Bath says:

    Hello. I have a 2010 750li xdrive. 145000 miles. It starts and idle fine. Full throttle acceleration is fine. No check engine light. I can feel a surge at cruise 60 -70 mph. I can downshift to 5th gear and dont notice it anymore. I can see the tach move a little as it surges. I assume just because of less engine load. It will also misfire on light to medium throttle acceleration. Really noticable in 3rd gear. Between 1500 – 2000 rpm. But I can’t get it to turn on cel. I have replaced the following in the last month. Turbo wastegate flapper/valve and bushing, Pressure transducers, bypass valves, vacuum lines, spark plugs, maf sensors, boost/map sensors on intercooler, Pcv lines, Coil packs replaced a year ago and I have swapped old with new and nothing changed. I smoke test intake from turbo down and had no leaks. Check catalytic converter back pressure and its fine. I have ista-d and have looked at everything I can think of and dont see anything out of line. There are no codes for the dme. I forced a misfire by pulling plug off of the coil pack so I could do a injector test. It said injectors are fine. Index 12 injectors. I also verified injector values in dme. I’m not sure where to go now. I dont mind buying injectors but I haven’t convinced myself that’s the issue. I wish it would throw a code so I would have a direction to go. Any suggestions?? Thanks shawn

    Like

    • Wow sounds like you did a lot of work,,,first I would wait until the check engine light comes on because right now you are just going around in circles try to fix something,,,,but this is what you can do is when it starts to misfire I would check the spark plugs to see which one is fuel soaked and that might be your problem.

      Like

  12. chito says:

    hello i got a 2012 x5 xdrive 47k with n63 engine and this morning started to missfire all cylinders on bank 2 i change the spark plugs and coils and it does the same thing i can smell gas on the exhust pipe and blue smoke so it adles bad yesterday was running fine with no problems am i looking to replace the injectors too or my driver side turbo took a crap any ideas

    Like

    • Ok on bank 2 the drivers side, did you notice any fuel soaked spark plugs when you changed them,,,,you might have to remove them again and see which one is fuel soaked and that will tell you which fuel injector is going bad,,,,if you don’t find any fuel soaked spark plugs which sounds hard to believe because you said you smell ful from the exhaust and smoke coming out of the exhaust tells me you have a fuel issue,,,,if no injectors are bad the next ting would be one of the high pressure fuel pumps or the low fuel pressure sensor went bad causing it dump more fuel into the engine.

      Like

  13. Ryan Mindemann says:

    Has anyone tried the generic aftermarket solenoids? They are a lot cheaper but unsure of the results.

    Like

  14. Lordwick mlambo says:

    Hello sir,im from South africa and mechanic.i was fixing the the 750,N63 engine coz it was chowing oil,i replaced all chain kits but ddnt replace the venos units,it started throwing the fault “drive train malfunction at high revs and it will cut the power to the point where you hve to stop and start then it will be gine unti you hummer it.so i got the fault now that says exh ven2 regulatory not reached then i replace the venos and now its worse coz its got rough iddling and it says”130D01 crankshaft-camshaft reff;angular difference outside the limit

    Like

    • It sounds like the engine timing and vanos are not set right.

      Like

      • Lordwick mlambo says:

        I used the special tool to set the timing and when you says the venos are not corectly set what do you mean sir?

        Like

      • I didn’t know you used the special tool to lock everything down,,,,after you timed the engine did you turn the motor over by hand and re-pin the engine and lock down the camshafts to make sure everything is at TDC.,,,,,I’m just wonder because the fault was vanos didn’t reach the limit

        Like

      • Lordwick mlambo says:

        Yes i did the 360 degrees turn nd re-checked everything.i hve one more concern abwt my special tool it doesnt have a preload for the tensioner i just loosened the tensioner before tightening the vanos;30NM and 90 degrees.have i done it the right way sir?

        Like

      • No this is what you eyed to do,,,,pin the engine at TDC then you have the vanos units bolted on but not tight,,,,you have the vanos unit slightly loose so they should be able to move,,,you should have the camshaft locked down,,,,then you tighten the tensioner all the way in until it’s tightened down,,,,then you tighten the vanos unit to the tighten torque,,,the engine should be timed,,,turn it 360′ and re-pin and lock out the camshafts again to double check,,,,,once you get it running,,,,drive the car normal sometimes it takes sometime for the vanos units to get enough oil pressure and start to work properly,,,,remember everything has been dry of oil for sometime.

        Like

      • Lordwick mlambo says:

        Sorry sir by saying loosen the tensioner i meant realesing the locking pin(sory for the bad explanation).anyway i thank you let me get back to re-doing it again.so i hope this will eliminate also the multiple misfire in the cylinders of bank 1

        Liked by 1 person

      • Let me know what happens

        Like

      • Lordwick mlambo says:

        Good day sir and compliments for the new year.the problem was vannos solenoids valves.thanx for your assistance

        Like

  15. Aldo M. NY says:

    Hi there… so after a spirited run, with my car 2014 550xi N63tu. I parked the car in my drive way and was just letting it idle, for it to cool down. It began to misfire and went into drive train malfunction. I towed it to my friends shop. Codes said misfire cylinder 5 &6, over the summer i changed my plugs and coils. So he swapped the plugs and coil packs to see if the misfire would move cylinders and they stayed at 5 &6. He ordered 2 new injectors and it will still misfire. When the codes are cleared , it idles fine. Then after 10 seconds it goes to drive train malfunction. He’s thinking it might be timing related ?? Any thoughts on what it could be since we ruled out plugs,coils and fuel injectors? Codes only say mosfore…

    Like

    • Did you calibrate the new injector to the DME ,,,,also cylinder 5,6 are on bank 2 which is the drivers side we do have the correct cylinders I hope,,,,also you now have cylinder 5,6 injectors are different index levels since you put in new injectors and you are not suppose to mix different index level on a bank,,,,each bank should have all the same index level injectors,,,,ok that being said,,,,first make sure the new injectors are calibrated,,,,if that doesn’t do it and you swapped coils and spark plugs maybe do a compression test on that bank 2

      Like

  16. Aldo M NY says:

    My mechanic said, The Vanos degrees, both cams, driver bank do not move and they are mega high.
    There no codes though for a faulty Vanos. Just the misfire codes.

    Like

    • The misfires are just for Cylinders 5 and 6 correct?,,,,if the vanos unit don’t move how does the mechanic know that , the vanos units are mechanical,,,,also if the vanos units are faulty then you would have vanos unit faults,vanos solenoid faults,timing faults and the whole bank 5,6,7 and 8 misfires,,,,,you only have misfire cylinders 5,6 that doesn’t make sense.

      Like

  17. Aldo M NY says:

    Yes just cylinder 5 & 6. Hes using Zeus from snap on tools, and

    He said vanos does not move and they are high…

    Like

    • I think it hard to believe only cylinders 5,6 are misfiring and the vanos are not moving for that whole bank,,,,question for you when they removed and replaced the fuel injectors on cylinder 5,6 on the old injectors there is a Teflon bushing on the tip of the injector were the Teflon bushing in good shape and not damaged or burnt off or missing,,,because I want to know if the injector bores on the cylinder head are ok,,,,if they are damaged and the new injectors are not secure into the cylinder head could have misfire,,,also can the mechanic check the valves on cylinder 5,6 with a bore-a-scope

      Like

      • Aldo M NY says:

        The bushing are in good shape, we checked the valves with a camera (from what we can see they are fine)..

        It is very strange that the numbers are so high for that vanos unit, and it is very strange that it’s only 5,6…

        Like

      • Yes it really doesn’t make any sense,,,,when the mechanic runs the test for the vanos does bank 2 vanos retard and advance?,,,,I just don’t like how cylinder 5 and 6 have misfires,,,,with the misfires could cause vanos problems.

        Like

  18. Ramon Ibanez says:

    Hi there, I have a 2011 BMW 550i Xdrive I bought the car without knowing had problems. have a backfires , no power sound like misfire an 2 cyl. Idler is very rough, sound noise. is 7 malfuction codes 10C104 Intermittent
    130708 Vanos Exhaust
    131101 crankshaft-exhaust camshaft 2
    131608
    132808
    132808
    140002
    140402
    any idea what can be the problem, Thank you in advance for you help

    Like

  19. Ron Che says:

    Please help. Recently bought a used car with 80K on it… few months of driving it, less than 10K, and I get Drivetrain Malfunction: Drive moderately. Maximum drivetrain output not available.

    I have check the codes and I’m getting the following on a 2012 750i xDrive:

    130708 VANOS (Variable Camshaft Timing) exhaust 2: control fault, position not reached
    131608 VANOS (Variable Camshaft Timing) exhaust 2 cold start not controllable
    140002 Several cylinders misfire: exhaust gas damaging after starting up
    140502 Cylinder 5 misfire: exhaust gas damaging after starting up
    140602 Cylinder 6 misfire: exhaust gas damaging after starting up
    140702 Cylinder 7 misfire: exhaust gas damaging after starting up
    140802 Cylinder 8 misfire: exhaust gas damaging after starting up

    I’m clueless as what to do. Any help would be appreciated!

    Like

    • It looks like you might have a couple problem,,,,the misfires on bank 2 drives side might be fuel injectors ,,,,you will have to remove the spark plugs and see if the spark plugs are fuel soaked,,,if they are then you need fuel injectors on bank 2,,,,,now the exhaust vanos bank 2 could be a couple of thing,,,,the easiest and cheapest would be to replace both vanos solenoids valves on bank 2 and change the oil and filter,,,,if that doesn’t do it then you might have a bad exhaust vanos unit which will be more expensive and a lot harder to repair

      Like

  20. Preben Arnvard says:

    Good afternoon,

    I came across your article today. I have a 2011 BMW 550i that just started throwing these fault codes:

    Engine / Motor
    Fault Code: 132808
    Fault Explanation: VANOS, outlet 2, cold start: not reached position
    Fault Code: 131608
    Fault Explanation: VANOS, outlet 2, cold start: not controlled
    Fault Code: 130708
    Fault Explanation: VANOS, outlet 2: not reached control error,
    Position

    It idles a little rough. Any thoughts?

    In advance thank you,

    Preben

    Like

  21. Rob Young says:

    Hello. Great insight here! Here’s my issue. 2012 X5, N63. 131k miles. Had a camshaft exhaust synchronization error. Oil was dirty and had gas in it due to misfires. Changed plugs and coils, changed oil. Now the car starts fine, but in about a minute or so, once it warms up and tries to go into closed loop (reading from all sensors), the engine idle jumps, and it starts making a ‘clacking’ noise. After about 30 seconds, the Drivetrain Malfunction comes up and it throws a 2A87 code (Vanos, exhaust, mechanical) along with a 3100 (boost Pressure Control, deactivation) and the car starts idling better and the ‘clacking’ noise goes away. With it being an e70, I’m not getting the details of which bank I should be looking at, however, when opening the hood and listening, it sounds as if the ‘clacking’ noise is coming from Bank 1 (passengers side). Do you feel this might be a solenoid issue or perhaps a Vanos unit? The odd thing is the fact that the car seems to start up easily and run fine while in open loop, but then stumbles when it goes into closed loop. Thanks

    Like

    • Since it says Vanos,exhaust and it has no number 2 next to it tells me it’s bank 1 passengers side,,,,it’s hard to say if it is vanos units or solenoids at this point,,,the cheapest and easiest is the vanos solenoids to start with

      Like

      • Rob Young says:

        So I swapped the solenoids and it didn’t have an effect. I have ISTA and ran the VANOS solenoid check and when I did, the desired position of VANOS was constant at -100 degrees and the Actual position of camshaft was constant at -100 degrees, but the actual position of the VANOS was jumping all over the place between -70 and -120 degrees. Seems that maybe the actual adjustment unit is not able to properly manage the oil pressure? Also, when I unplugged the VANOS, the car started fine and idles ok. There is a VANOS code for electrical connection, but no rattling/clacking/diesel noise and the RPM isn’t jumping around. Do you feel this points to an issue with the actual adjustment unit and/or with the camshaft seals?

        Like

      • It’s sound like a vanos unit might be bad

        Like

  22. Preben Arnvard says:

    Hi there,

    I successfully replace both Vanos sensors on the driver side, cleared all the fault codes and the car seems happy for now.

    My question to you is how to I correctly bleed/add coolant fluid to both systems?

    In order to get to the 3rd bolt that was hard to get too I disconnected the radiator coolant hose so I could get to the bolt, I also disconnected the two hoses to the inter cooler when I pushed it out of the way. Having said this I obviously lost coolant fluid from both systems. I’m just looking for the correct way to fix this.

    Thank you in advance,

    Preben

    Like

    • Ok to bleed the main coolant tank just start and run the engine with the cap off and watch the coolant piss back into the tank,,,you can run it for about 10 minutes,,,,now the small coolant tank suck to bleed,,,,one way is top it off and test drive the car around the block and recheck and add coolant if have too,,,,then test drive again and recheck,,,,you might have to do this a couple of times.

      Like

  23. Tony Nguyen says:

    So im getting a drivetrain malfuntion alarm that wont go away. I took it to the auto parts store to get a error code reading and it was a p0025 camshaft position retarded. Bank 2 Is that the vanos solenoid? How do you get that bottom hidden bolt out? I have a 2011 bmw 550i i would rather do it myself if thats the issue then take it to bmw. Please help

    Like

  24. Hasan Mulla says:

    Hello. I came across your thread and see you’re a pretty knowledgeable person on these BMW n63. I have a 2013 750li and I got the following codes on my car.
    140002: Combustion misfires, several cylinders. damaging exhaust gas after starting up
    140010
    140602
    140610
    140801
    140802 Cylinder 8 combustion misfire, damaging exhaust gas after starting up
    140810

    This happened after I sped up to about 50 mph, and as the car in front of me was slowing down, I was coasting down (no brake no gas) to about 20 mph. As soon as I slightly came back on the gas to speed up a bit, I got drivetrain malfunction and the car started missing.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

    Like

    • Look like you either have ignition coils misfiring or you have fuel injectors going bad,,,,one of the easiest things to do is remove the spark plugs and see if anyone is fuel soaked,,,,if any are fuel soaked then that fuel injector might be bad.

      Like

      • Hasan says:

        So we did replace all the spark plugs and coils 8 new. All the codes are on 1 bank ecu. The other ecu has 0 codes

        Like

  25. Hasan Mulla says:

    So we changed all 8 spark plugs and coils. Also old spark plugs were clean not fouled out.

    Like

    • Ok,,,after you replaced the spark plugs and coils,,,,anymore faults

      Like

    • Hasan Mulla says:

      So cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8 all have faults.
      2 and 4 have 2 faults each for misfire and damaging exhaust gas code.
      6 and 8 have those 2 codes along with the fuel injection switched off code
      Only cylinder 6 has a 144018 for “combustion period too short” code

      Like

      • After you replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs did you recheck the spark plugs on the cylinders that misfired,,,,I’m still wondering if the fuel injectors are your problems,,,,Question do you know what the index level is on all of you injectors,,,,I’m wondering how old they are.

        Like

      • Hasan Mulla says:

        So we replaced the spark plugs after the misfiring issue occurred as well as the coils. I’m not sure what they are but do you happen to know if you can check on a maxisys scanner vs. pulling them out

        Like

      • The only way is by pulling out the spark plugs and see and smell them for fuel,,,,,were you able to see what index level the fuel injector are.

        Like

      • Hasan says:

        I just checked out the spark plugs and they don’t smell at all. The ar is giving out a very loud gas smell from the driver side exhaust and I looked up some live data value on the car and found something that doesn’t seem right to me. Maybe you know more on it: The variable timing value showed
        “Variable Camshaft Timing Exhaust 2: 27.11 degrees on idle”
        “Variable Camshaft Timing Intake 2: -32.96 degrees on idle” I’m pretty sure that’s not supposed to be a negative leaving me to believe that the solenoids are bad. What do you think about this?

        Like

      • I don’t know what the degrees should be at idle,,,,usually if the timing or solenoid is faulty it will show a fault for vanos unit or timing issue,,,,you said you smell gas out of drivers side exhaust that is not good,,,,do you know what the index level is on your injectors,,,,,does it say 09 or 10 or 11 or 12

        Like

  26. Lynn-Eric Guillaume says:

    Hi I have a error codes coming up on Ista. Car cranks wont start. Thought it was the battery. It’s not

    213901 power management/ deactivation or reduction of individual electrical loads

    130402 valve inlet 2 activation short to ground

    130602 valve exhaust 2 activation short to ground

    122102 bypass blow off valve short circuit
    to ground

    122102 bypass blow off valve short circuit
    to ground.

    If you can I’ll appreciate the help. Thank you!

    Like

  27. Hasan Mulla says:

    So cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8 all have faults.
    2 and 4 have 2 faults each for misfire and damaging exhaust gas code.
    6 and 8 have those 2 codes along with the fuel injection switched off code
    Only cylinder 6 has a 144018 for “combustion period too short” code

    Like

  28. Lynn-Eric Guillaume says:

    2009 750li F02 Chassis

    Like

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