Ok your probably thinking what the hell is this,,,F30 N20 A/C lines going to the firewall,,,bolting up to the expansion valve. And here is the high side switch and shredder valve,,,,ok hear is where I’m going with this,,,,customer complained about a whistling /beeping sound coming from the center dash area,,,, only happens when fan speed on low and A/C button off,,,,and temp setting at 60′,,,,radio off and car must be sitting outside in the heat,,,,,guess what I heard it,,,,it’s is a beeping noise coming from the center vents. Will look at what the fix is from BMW ,,,yes the high pressure A/C line from the expansion valve to the front condenser,,,,,do you notice something differ on the new A/C line,,,,yes that is a valve to shut off the pressure inside the line,,,it is a electrical valve that we have to splice into the harness to activate it when the A/C system is off. Here the valve built into the line,,,this whole thing doesn’t make any sense and you will see at the end of this blog.so I install this fix it all A/C line as BMW what’s us too. Here the A/C line installed,,,here where that valve sits right under the heater hoses,,,so I charge the A/C system back up and test drive the car just like the customer said,,,,,and guess what the dam noise is still there,,,,son of bitch,,,,lol,,,so now I have to make a puma case and tell them it didn’t fix the problem,,,now they want me to put a A/C compressor in the car for the fix,,,,,well so far so good,,,no noise after putting in the A/C compressor.
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wow weee its not even October fest
I need a drink like its Oktoberfest
Hi BMW TECHNICIAN.IM FAI FROM MALAYSIAN.I HAVE BMW F30 .CAUSE THE BLOWER MOTOR MAKING NOISE SO I OPEN THE BLOWER JUST CLEAN UP ONLY.THEN I JUST FIX BACK THE BLOWER BUT THE BLOWER NO WORKING SO HOW?
Are you sure you have all the electrical connection back on correctly,,,,if you do,,,maybe yo have a blown fuse.
How do you trouble shoot Code 2 efe electric fan ?
I have seen that code before and that’s for the electric fan issue.
I’m sorry I didn’t read your question correctly,,,,to trouble shot you would have to see if your electric engine fan is working correctly ,,,,but that is difficult to find out,,,,so you just have to trust the fault code is correct, ,,,,lol,,,,what happens is the DME will pick up a signal that the engine fan is not turning on when it should be on so the DME throws a fault telling you that the engine fan is not working properly
I have come across the fault below on the 320i (F30):
Central Gateway Module (ZGW) (ZGW_01)
1 fault CD0487
ZGM: Synchronisation process for FlexRay failed
When it was investigated at the dealer the fault was removed from the memory (in the past), but this year the CD0487 fault has reappeared again, against mileage reading of -1 (not sure what -1 means?), do you know the potential cause and any solution(s) to this fault? Also is it worth investigating this fault further and any outer symptoms to be aware of with this?
Question what is the problem we are having,,,,or is this just a fault you found in your car?,,,,We see that fault a lot,,,,it just a random fault that pop up once an awhile,,,the mileage reading of -1 tells me that it’s a random fault and it happened at mile 1,,,,so there might be something going on but at this time it’s just coming up with a random fault,,,,I would wait if some other fault may appear,
Hi, thanks for the reply. it is just a fault code that appeared in the car. The only outer symptom which I don’t know is related or not is a fan noise that is heard from the head unit (HU) area when the car is turned off, this seemed to be due to the cooling fan of the IDrive (hence normal operation of fan from the HU) after it was investigated at the dealer. They deleted the fault from memory which was the outcome required following their system (or process). As the fault has now reappeared again would you advise having it investigated further or should we ignore this? I am just concerned if it’s coming from ZGM (Central Gateway Module) whether could there be an ECU or wiring issue? When you see this fault at -1 mileage does that mean it is constantly occurring in the background or has it occurred just the once in that particular instance? Also do you know if this fault code is a sign the FlexRay communication or ZGM ECU is experiencing a serious issue or minor issue (in terms of the synchronisation) ?
I would just ignore this fault,,,,if it was something major it would say no communication or no signal,,,,this fault is probably coming from the ZGM and the -1 mileage is just a random thing because it doesn’t know what’s going on for that split second,,,,don’t worry about for now.
Thanks for the quick reply, to clarify in terms of the ECU as this module is important to the car, does this mean this CD0487 fault is not a sign that the ZGM ECU (Central Gateway Module) itself is failing or on its way out ? And if that was ever the case would there be a different type of fault code you would expect or you could easily tell from an outer symptom ?
This is not a sign that the ZGM is failing,,,,if the ZGM was failing you would have other faults related to it.
OK many thanks and thank you for the service you provide to help people.
Hi . I came across this site . I have slight rattle just around 1500rpm only on very light throttle . Car is x3 f25 , 2.0d xdrive , Year 2016 only 70000km on the clock . Perhaps a coincidence but started right after fuel filter replacement . I have suspect auxilary belt tensioner ? It is most noticeable right before ZF8HP change gear if that matter and is driving me mad. Perhaps you have had a rattle rpm related . Internet say all various things starting from exhaust heatshield , fuel pressure control valve , fuel Rail sensor , injectors, torque converter , tensioner , egr, hpfp, throttle , ac compressor and list goes on . I replaced egr and run test of fuel supply with ISTA all Ok. Apart from that it pulls like a train and drives beautifull . Sometimes can feel gear changes but hoping to change solenoids on mechatronics and box oil to sort it out. Great site btw.
Yes there are a lot of possibilities,,,you need to narrow down where the noise is coming from so we can find the problem
Solved my rattle issue it was the fuel lones near the engine running under vehicle probably hitting black metal guuide cover thing . At the same time i replace front differential oil , all quite now. I had No idea that front diff has a pressure ceny and can loose – evaporate oil trough the top .
The only remaining issue i have which is driving me mad is occasionally getting jerky gear changes . Sometimes i start the car and is nice quite and smooth but mostly jerky lower gears at light throttle . Ideas that come to my mind is either valvebody , converter , egr valve , throttle or turbo actuator ? Egr has been changed , throttle whilst check in Ista seems to hold position i ordered all solenoids for valvebody with seals and separation plate with 10l zf oil and pan with filter . Engine B47 . Trans ZG8HP 45 x his. Any other ideas what to check .
Only errors showing occasionally are :
Read about water damage to harness on f25 – have you Dewalt with it ?
I am very dedicated to sort this car and keep it .
435i : Low speed – poor dehumidification. I’ve noticed that the system doesn’t dehumidify as well as it used to when I’m idling along or during low speed city driving. At highway speeds the system seems to be operating ok, no great, since the F-series cars are notorious for having icing problems at the evaporator coil if the temp is set too low (70F or below).
Any thoughts for the cause of this poor performance?
Would having the evap coil cleaned be useful? The vehicle is a 9/2014 build.
Cleaning the coils wouldn’t help,,,you need to have someone read the high and low a/c pressure,,,also maybe have someone check the freeon level maybe you are low on freeon and have a slight leak,,,low freeon can cause a lot of problem
Climate control sensor locations? Can they get dirty? Can you clean them?
I’ve been dealing with poor heating performance when using “Auto”. When using “Auto” the front vents are ice cold, footwell vents are lukewarm. I would expect the front vents to get some heat directed towards them.
Heater core is okay,
Heater control valve is okay.
Blend doors appear to be functioning correctly.
IHKA system was reset which did improve comfort to some degree.
Heat output is 155 degrees.
Vehicle reaches operating temperature is short order.
Coolant has been flushed
My BMW Indy shop stated that due to the age of the vehicle (9 yrs) it’s possible that there’s a lazy sensor which is operating just barely within bounds and consequently hasn’t thrown a code. He stated it would cost a lot of money to track it down. I’m wondering if over the years dust has accumulated on a cabin sensor and it’s causing a in issue. Or perhaps the temp sensor inside the air box by the evap coil. If it were dirty could that throw things off?
Any thoughts and what product would you use to clean it?