Picture of the old and new right side motor mounts on a E70 X 5 ,,,,,with a N55 engine,,,,,customer complaint was rattle noise from front of engine at idle,,,,it was more of a knocking noise,,,it sounded like it was coming from the right side of the dash.
You can see the new one is slightly taller,,,the one on the left side has collapsed enough to cause a knocking noise.
Replacing the right side motor mount is not a easy job,,,,you have to sling the engine,,,,and remove the whole right side brakes and steering knuckle,,,,along with the front right axle has to be removed.
This is a stupid picture,,,,lol,,,,I don’t know why I took it,,,,but this is the whole engine mount bracket and the front axle support also removed to replace the motor mount,,,,this is not a job for a backyard mechanic,,,,this job pays about 3.2 hours.
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Hello- Thanks for your last reply. Hey, quick question. I have two brand new motor mounts on my N20-engined F10, and noticed that with a firm hand I can rock the engine side to side, noticeably. Is this normal? I realize its a tappity 4 banger, and they wanted to isolate it, but THAT much play?
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Yes you can rock the engine side by side easily,,,,,that’s normal
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Not required to remove ANY part of the suspension or even the tire to pull the engine mount. The only real issue is accessing the 18mm nut that secures mount to the arm. The 4 bolts that attach the arm to the block can be reached from under the car using extensions and thin wall sockets. There are even relief channels cast into the part that allow a more straight shot at the bolt. You can thread the extensions in through the plastic wheel lining. Also have to drop the subframe a half inch or so to wrestle out the parts.
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So it is technically doable in 3 hours as long as there are no hiccups.
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Hi, I would really appreciate some advise. I have a 1 series 118d coupe 2009. I had noticed a juddering in gear 1/ idle. Usually in start stop traffic, give ways, parking. So I took it to a mechanic who thought this was due to the mounts and changed 2x engine mounts and 2xgear mounts. Within hrs ofbleaving the garage away there now seems to be more if a rattle near the dash. Also since the modifications the gear box has become super stiff and the clutch is slipping sticking(I have to put my foot under it to bring it back up). I would appreciate any advise on what’s gone on here? Many thanks
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So this is a stick shift,,,sounds like the clutch is going out,,,,and you said you have to put your foot under the pedal to lift it back up,,,,that could be another problem,,,see you clutch pedal is hydraulic operated from a clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder,,,the pedal not returning could be one of the hydraulic units leaking or it could be clutch assembly failing
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Thank you for your reply. I had it looked at by another mechanic today and think since it happened straight of the back of some work being done, likely hydrolic related. However as clutch juddering is still there, said this will need crank shaft/flywheel replaced, I belive these are both parts of the clutch. Having read a few bmw forums I understand this a common issue with this particular car. And that bmw modified the clutch at some point, any advise on if this can be replaced by bmw under goodwill.
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You can give it a try,,,but the clutch is a wear and tear item.,,,you may need a clutch,pressure plate,throw out bearing and maybe a flywheel,,,you don’t need a crankshaft that is something completely different.
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Left mount easier? Remove intake manifold and sling the engine to remove the mount bracket? Or do it at the bottom?
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The left side is harder because of the front diff,,,you do it either way intake removed probably will give you better access to the mount
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