Ok I know I have shown pictures of in tank fuel pump,,,,but this is a differ ten case,,,,,F10 with N55 check engine light on,,,,faults low fuel pressure,,,,fuel pressure stuck were the faults ,,,,car had no power also ran rough and idle was low and also long crank,,,,,this repair is for only in tank fuel pump before 10/2013
Here I’m removing the old fuel pump,,,,there is a lot to remove or stuff into this small opening when removing or replacing the in tank fu pump.
The only visual different is the connector on the new fuel pump has a plastic connector ,,,,,not like the original fuel pump has the wires exposed,,,,now the reason for replacing the fuel pump is for the faults ,,,,what is happening is the fuel is foaming up inside the fuel tank,,,,after replacing the fuel pump I have to program the car and do a conversion on the fuel pressure,,,,the conversion changes the in tank fuel pump fuel pressure from 5.2 bar up to 5.8 bar.
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bmwtechnician 
hello, i also have a 2014 BMW f10 N55. I am getting a gurggling noise when tank is below 1/2 but above 1/4. I had BMW Replace fuel pump in tank (cost me $700) but am still getting this noise (and its very noticable when parked and sometimes while driving). Noise goes away if tank is above 1/2. I dont know what else it could be. It is defenitely coming from fuel pump. Could it be the fuel foaming up in tank causing this noise? Should i replace pump with a upgraded higher flow fuel pump? What can i do to resolve this noise. It is 100% not normal fuel pump whine noise……
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Is the noise coming from passengers side or from the drivers side,,,,,the fuel pump is on the passengers side,,,,on the drivers side there is a valve which could be making noise
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Sound is coming from passenger side rear seat area. Even louder outside the car in that area. Had fuel pump replaced but noise is still there. I’m ready to give it. The noise is a gurgling noise ( sound it makes is hard to explain … but it sounds like someone walking on 6” of snow ) that’s the noise it makes. Only when tank is below half and above 1/4. Any idea what else it could be aside from fuel pump? I may just have to put sound absorber along rear seat and under car.
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It sounds like the fuel pump is cavitation when the fuel is low ,,,,in the picture there are several fuel lines inside the fuel tank if they are not connected correctly or in the wrong place it can cause problem ,,,,,did you have the dealer look at the problem?,,,maybe a bad fuel pump it happens,,,maybe when the fuel gets low part of the fuel pump is not covered in fuel and starts to make that noise and sucking air,,,,maybe a bad fuel pump it happens.,,,,the fuel pump has a warranty if that’s the problem
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replaced fuel pump and noise is still there. it is definitely something with the fuel tank. I may just replace the entire fuel tank. The noise annoys me tremendously. I am assuming the only mechanical motor inside the fuel tank that can make noise is the fuel pump iteslf. Maybe i will replace entire gas tank and upgrade to a high flow fuel pump and see if anything changes……it just bothers the heck out of me. Noise only happens when above 1/4 tank and below half tank of gas…at least somebody else is experiencing the exact same issue…..no way is this normal though. its too too loud to be normal…
http://www.bmw-sg.com/forums/threads/f10-low-pressure-fuel-pump-noise.58894/
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Your problem might be the fuel tank but it’s hard to tell without hearing the noise,,,,but you said something about a high volume fuel pump which is not a good idea,,,,to much fuel to the fuel injector could cause a whole new problem.
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Here is the similar sound my fuel pump makes if this helps. This is not my car but has exact same sound (my car does not have the whining noise this pump has. It has the other rattling noise in video ). I replaced pump but rattling noise is still there. Only loud when under 1/2 tank and above 1/4 tank.
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Thanks for the video,,,,I have never heard this noise before,,,sounds like the fuel is starving once the fuel level get below 1/2 or 1/4 tank,,,,maybe a fuel line inside the fuel tank is bad or cracked and causing this noise
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I’m going to pull rear seat out and then listen to it. Then gonna pull pump out completely and wire it up to 12v and listen to it.
I actually also tried sound deafening material under rear seat but it did not help at all. It’s just driving me nuts. May need to also get a fuel pressure gauge and make sure pressure sits steady and does not shake back n forth when pump makes noise.
So many variables….. but it’s so annoying this noise……drives me nuts. Thanks for your help though. Greatly appreciate ur time!!!!!
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You should wait until the noise starts and see which fuel lines are not sitting in fuel,,,,then check those fuel lines to see if they are cracked or sucking air.
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Very true. That’s exactly what I will do. Wait until it makes noise then take everything apart and investigate. Now I gotta but a fuel pump removal tool ($115). Uggggh and some driveway ramps to get under car ( I hear noise under car in fuel pump area ) Wheeeewweeee. Wish me luck!!!!!
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Good luck,,,,take your time
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Hello, seems i have another fueling problem with my 2014 BMW 535i xdrive. The Car sputters between 3k-5k rpm and also see misfires across random cylinders. No check engine light. I Replaced Plugs (stock gap) and Coils with no luck…still getting random misfires under load.
How can i troubleshoot this and what do i troubleshoot ?
Im assuming it is a fueling issue with injectors or a vavuum leak.
Here is the datalog below
http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b914131d10b432d866b034f
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It’s possible your in tank fuel pump is going bad,,,,you need someone to check the fuel pressure while driving and see if the fuel pressure and misfire are related
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I have a 2011 335i N55 and my car shuts off upon start up and on occasion at a stop light but never while driving. I know it’s the LPFP and I want to do the LPFP upgrade but I’m unsure which pump to get. I know an upgraded LPFP may not even be necessary but I do run a little bit of e85 with my stage 2 MHD tune w/93 pump gas. I also have a downpipe too. Any recommendations would help. How long does it take to change this out and what price should I expect to pay if I take it to an Indy shop or Dealership (I know the latter will be higher priced).
Thanks in advance.
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Expect about a 2hr charge to replace the in-tank fuel pump,,,,you could upgrade at that time.
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Hey man . I’m looking to buy a BMW 5-Series with a high mileage 90-100k
And I have a choice between a 2011-2013 528 Or 535 models
Any suggestions on what car is going to be reliable .
I read a lot on how bmws are unreliable and breakdown
Is that the case with these models .
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The 528 would be your best choice,,,,compared to the 535 because of the turbos,,,,as long as you don’t care about horsepower the 528 is the way to go,,,,check history on car see what was repaired already,,,fuelpump,water pump and t-stat ,oil filter housing gaskets and valve cover gasket should have been done already,,,,also make sure the oil service were done on time.
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Hi, So I have a 2012 535i w/N55. It finally broke at 182,000 and I had to put in a water pump. At that time I replaced all the cooling system, starter, alternator, all the engine management sensors some bushings and ect..I gave it a little more power by scraping Diana and boltons. On my first tank of E30 mix I lost my intalk fuel pump, shame as I had a really big smile on my face at the time.
The pump was not keeping up with the delivery demands placed on it . Or, I should have said the fuel system wasn’t keeping up, almost but not quite. So I now need to replace my intalk pump and want to know what pump motor I should buy. Fueling systems get really complacated really quickly. My thinking is that my new intalk pump should push about 20% more fuel at about the same pressure and be E85 compatible. Can you give me any information on such a pump. Thanks , Selden
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I’m sorry ,,,I’m not the right person for this question,,,you need to talk to someone who has done this before and is to modification and different fuels
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I have a 2011 535i, trying to diagnose P0171 and P0087, Fuel rail pressure low and a lean bank. I am very confused on how to trouble shoot the LPFP or the HPFP and the HPFP sensor since they all seem to be problematic? The car starts long, not a lot of power.
Also have DMTL short to positive and short to ground codes, but I don’t think those are related to my fuel codes. No misfire codes.
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The low fuel rail pressure is usually the HPFP,,,,and the DMTL is completely something different issue with the DMTL pump.
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Yes, did turn out to be the HPFP. Replaced and that is good. But, still have DMTL SHORT TO POSITVE even after replacing the pump. I guess I will try to smoke out a leak. Maybe running the pump too long from a leak is giving that SHORT TO POSITIVE cod
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Sounds good,,,the short to positive could be a damaged wiring harness also check the fuse that powers up the DMTl pump
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Yes, did turn out to be the HPFP. Replaced and that is good. But, still have DMTL SHORT TO POSITVE even after replacing the DMTL pump. Next, I guess I will try to smoke out a leak? Maybe if the pump runs too long from a leak it might that SHORT TO POSITIVE code? I did notice a few times after I reset the code that it came back within a few seconds, not enough time to for the DME to run a full test. But the last time, it took a while of me driving it to set the code. I suppose a leak could have ran the first pump bad and I still have a leak. Really don’t feel like going through wiring issues, LOL.
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I did a smoke test (no leaks) AND replaced the DMTL pump for the second time with a new BOSCH. I still get that SHORT to POSITVE code. I checked the wiring, from the connector on the DMTL all the way to the DME connector. It all looks good. From what I understand, the code is tripping from the pump motor drawing too much current. I did notice the battery is not an AGM and is undersized. It looks like a 650 CCA. Maybe the voltage is dropping too low during engine off- EVAP test and the pump motor is drawing more current than it should and therefore tripping the code?
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It is possible the battery is a issue since it is not a AGM battery,,,,question did you ohm out the wiring to the DME or just inspected them?
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Thank you for replying. You’re not gonna believe this!! The DME was reading the VALVE, not the PUMP MOTOR. Valve resistance much lower than motor, that’s why DME thought there was a short at the pump. Obviously the DME stoped there and would not do any further diagnostics for it to give me anymore codes. Don’t know exactly this happened. That’s three DMTL’s. I Reversed the valve and pump wires and everything is good. PN# of Bosch was 0261222018? Maybe the actual pump PN is wrong? Maybe Bosch made a version of the DMTL where the pinout of the valve and pump connector/pins reversed for some other make or model and someone messed up the PN’s? I can tell you for sure though, the TIS wire coloring diagram for the VALVE and PUMP is reversed according to how is really is in the car. I posted more info on Bimmerfest.
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That’s interesting,,,I’m glad its fixed
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Hi I have 2 codes coming up on 2011bmw 535i 118401 and 11a210 is this lpfp or hppfp issue these are form ista
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It looks like the high pressure pump,,,,,question does your car have a long crank during start up.,,,if it does then you need a high pressure fuel pump
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I will get back to you on this soon, need some help i disconnected the – batt terminal i closed the trunk by mistake can i put jumper cables in the front under the hood to open the trunk or what is the best way to get the trunk opened since there is no key on f10 thanks in advance
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Oh shit,,,,do you have rear seat that fold down,,,,or do you have the rear center arm rest with a ski bag which would give you access to the rear trunk,,,did you disconnect the positive or negative side of the battery,,,,,if you have the positive disconnect I would worry about putting jumper cables on because the positive cable could be touching something,,,the negative side disconnect you can give it a try by putting jumper cables on.
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Thanks i was able to get in from back seat and open it
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So there no delayed start or long crank start so how do i diagnose it ?
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Delayed start and long crank are the most common issue with a bad High pressure fuel pump,,,those 2 faults are fuel related and the high pressure fuel pump is the most common issue,,,,if you decide to replace the high pressure fuel pump I also recommend to replace the low fuel pressure sensor if you car has one,,,,it is located just behind the high pressure fuel pump it is on the fuel feed line to the high pressure fuel pump,,,,not all car have one,,,,so don’t worry if your doesn’t have one because it might be built into the pump on that Year and model
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Ran diags again only seeing this one did not clear any codes 11a210
Thanks
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Ok low fuel pressure fault,,,can you check the fuel pressure from the fuel tank to the high pressure fuel pump.
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I have a strange one for ya, f10 n55 car came in with overvoltage faults, and DMTL 190502, 190002,cdc304, 1A2002. replaced the alternator with factory unit no more over voltage faults, replaced DMTL pump, EKP test drove vehicle to lunch after leaving from getting food, all the dmtl all the faults returned except overvoltage of course, and the vehicle started and died faults where all current, sat for a min started the car again it fired up and faults went intermittent. any advice would be appreciated thanks.
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Ok,,,I have a question was the DMTL replaced with a factory one or aftermarket,,,,also the DMTL fault could also be the purge valve inside the engine compartment by the throttle body
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