I know no big deal,,,,a stupid picture of a water pump ,,,,this is the first time I have to replace one on a F10 N55 engine. There alittle more work to remove the waterpump on a F10,,,,you have to unbolt the sway bar and let it hang down. The big difference is that you have to un bolt the electric steering rack,,,,the reason you have to do that is there is not enough room to pull the waterpump out,,,,when you lower the steering rack that gives you enough room to slide the waterpump out,,,,you still keep the steering shaft bolted,,,,do not un bolt the steering shaft,,,there is no need to.
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Thanks a lot for your help!
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I have a 2013 535i XDrive with similar issues. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and expansion tank but it is still overheating. The fan only comes on when the a/c is on. Is there a sensor for the cooling fan that may be gone bad? I really need help here. Thanks
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Thanks! Is there a different approach needed for the XDrive version?
Thanks! I’m hoping to tackle that soon, I heard they failed after 60k miles and I’m almost at 80k. Also, do you guys ever lubricate the folding mirror mechanisms? I thought that might be a good idea as my car sits outside, but I have no idea how to do that haha…
Is there any additional steps for Dynamic Drive cars? Is there enough slack in the hydraulic hoses for the sway bars that it will hang down far enough?
I already have my radiator fan removed and plan on swapping the thermostat also- I wonder if I can unbolt the water pump and hoses and pull it out through the top rather than messing with the sway bars and steering box.
I have not done it that way,,,but I believe you can,,,,that’s how we do it on the X5,,,it should work
2013 BMW 535i Xdrive overheating issues.
I have a 2013 535i XDrive with overheating issues. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and expansion tank but it is still overheating. The fan used to come on a full high speed immediately after the car starts up. Since we replaced the parts, the fan does not comes on. It only comes on when the a/c is turned on only comes on when the a/c is switched on. Is there a sensor for the cooling fan that may be gone bad? I really need help here. Thanks
Ok,,,,so the car is still overheating after replaced the water pump and t-stat and tank,,,,question did you clear faults and did you properly bleed the cooling system,,,and if you did are you saying it still overheats but the fan doesn’t come on and how do you know it’s overheating?
1. So the car is still overheating after replacing the water pump and t-stat and tank? YES
2. Question did you clear faults and did you properly bleed the cooling system? YES
3. And if you did are you saying it still overheats but the fan doesn’t come on? YES
4. How do you know it’s overheating?
We attached a diagnostic tool (iCarsoft) via OBD2, and monitor the temperature. It goes up to 220F and as soon as it hit 221F, an engine temperature warning sign pops up on the display stating engine temperature is high, drive moderately, etc. When the temperature goes over 225F, the sign changed to engine overheated, switch off the engine and allow to cool down. All this time the fan did not come on.
If the a/c is turned on when the car startup, the fan comes on and the engine heats up to 212F or about, and stay there.
Q1. Could it be the ECT (Coolant temperature sensor) or the cooling fan going bad?
Q2. Is there a sensor or fuse circuit that controls the cooling fan for radiator heat? Separate from the a/c condenser?
As soon as the a/c is switched on, the cooling fan comes on. If the a/c is switched off, the cooling fan goes off.
It is funny how after replacing all the major components the fan does not come on when the engine is hot but when the car was first diagnosed with the overheating issues, and have all the original components – t-stat, BAD water pump, etc, the fan would start up and go into high speed while the engine still overheated.
The original water pump was not working, so the coolant was not circulating. The new water pump works perfectly as we can see the coolant flowing out of the small hole in the expansion tank at high speed.
Ok,,,I don’t think the problem is coolant temp sensor or the cooling fan because the the fan works when you turn on the A/C,,,,there is a fan relay which could be your problem,,,the other thing is we sometimes have problems bleeding the cooling system on F10 for some reason,,,can you try pressure bleeding the system in case you have a air pocket.
I am so embarrassed!. All this time we were reacting to the hood sensor, not the engine coolant temperature sensor. The pump is working fine and the engine is not overheating. With a little research, we found out that this engine heats up to 108 degrees C which is equivalent to 226-228 degrees F. The fan will turn on within that range. The car hood has a sensor that alerts you of how hot the engine is when the engine reaches a certain temperature.- while the hood is opened, or unlocked. When the hood is locked, there is no alert. That is the signal what we were monitoring, not the coolant sensor. Thanks for your help.
Lol,,,,thanks for letting me know what happened.
Do you know where the fan relay is located?
We will try the pressure bleeding and update you accordingly.
I don’t remember off the top of my head,,,,it could be inside the engine compartment on the drivers side near the fender area,,,,you can follow the fan harness with the big red and brown wiring might lead you to the relay
I will check.