Ok this is going to be a long post with a lot of pictures,,,,N55 check engine light on,,,,faults were valvetronic motor and valvetronic won’t reach its limit,,,,performed the test plan,,,operated the valvetronic motor test which passed the test twice,,,but when I started the engine it would fail again ,,,,which tells me all these BMW test are not always correct,,,,lol,,,after more testing it finally said the valvetronic motor and the eccentric shaft should be replaced ok,,,,now the fun started.
Here you can see I already removed the fuel injectors and the 3 injector and spark plug stands,,,you have to remove them to gain better access to the valvetronic motor,,,,,also notice the oiler line,,,,you should also replace this at the same time. 
Here you can see all the injector and spark plug stands removed.
Now the fun started,,,during inspection I found the intake camshaft lobes pitted,,,only cylinder 5 and 6 were pitted,,,,we have no idea what caused this or what happened,,,,now are repairs have changed,,,,we are going to replace the valvetronic motor,eccentric shaft,roller rocker arms and eccentric levers.
Here the valvetronic motor which is just a worm gear ,,,,,which can move the eccentric shaft very fast.
now here is one of BMW over engineered tools needed to remove and install the the eccentric shaft lever springs,,,,you need this tool to perform this job,,,,there is no other way to do this without hurting yourself.,,,even with this tool you can hurt yourself,,,,,there is a lot of tension on those springs.
Here is the new intake camshaft and eccentric shaft,,,,you can see the gear on the eccentric shaft which locks into the valvetronic motor. 
When replacing the eccentric shaft there are also 6 needle bearing that have to be replace,,,,the needle bearing and the 2 bearing half shell bearing.
this I show you replace them,,,,,they are a split open,,,,you carefully spread them open over the eccentric shaft and make sure they spin freely.
Here are all the new eccentric shaft levers.
When replacing the levers and the roller rocker arms,,,,they all have numbers on them,,,,,so when you order new ones you need to know what the number is in the engine now,,,,the levers and the roller arms are both 02.
Here is the roller rocker arm you can see number 2 stamped in it. .
Her is the final assembly ,,,what I also forgot to say the vanos gear is removed,,,,because you will be timing the engine,,,,once your done you hope it starts,,,,you also have to perform a teach in for valvetronic motor ,,,,it performs about 50 test without it failing,,,,if it fails you have to start the test all over again.
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bmwtechnician 
Hi guys I am new here. I tried three different Indy mechanics but they cannot able to get my car going 535 n55. I installed new valvetronic motor and new valve gasket. Cleaned fuel injector. Well the car started but with crazy white smoke after three months. I try to teach valvetronic with Foxwell but it does not communicate. I spend lot of time. Any help I’d appreciated .
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Ok let me get this straight,,,,the valvetronic motor was replaced and now 3 months later you have white smoke,,,,,is that correct?,,,,if that’s correct then it ran ok with the new valvetronic motor with no problems,,,,now after 3 month you have white smoke is this correct
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Hi bmwtechnician, My 2014 X3 xdrive 35i with Msport just fell ill with a valvetronic codes 134A02 Servomotor: overloading and
133B04 System: no adjustment possible.
Is it necessary to replace the Eccentric shaft with the motor?
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I have done it both ways,,,,I have just replaced the valvetronic motor and I have also replaced both the motor and the eccentric shaft,,,it all depends what the BMW test plans says after the test,,,,sometime it tells us to replace both.,,,I will say the majority of the repairs are just the valvetronic motor.
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PLEASE CHECK YOUR TURBO SYSTEM OR BRING OUT TURBO TO CHECK OR SERVICE. TQ
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Hi guys I am new here. I tried three different Indy mechanics but they cannot able to get my car going 535 n55. I installed new valvetronic motor and new valve gasket. Cleaned fuel injector. Well the car started but with crazy white smoke after three months. I try to teach valvetronic with Foxwell but it does not communicate. I spend lot of time. Any help I’d appreciated. What do you think the problem is
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Hi bmwtech, I was replacing eccentric shaft on my N20 engine first time and installed the oil spray nozzle wrong for the eccentric shaft and motor. Part of the oil spray line was shaved off by the eccentric shaft and left markings on eccentric shaft gear. Do I need to replace the whole shaft or is it okay to keep using it, can you please take a look at my intake and exhaust lobe too. Thanks in advance
https://ibb.co/MPqyJbt
https://ibb.co/G5jB82B
https://ibb.co/12TmX7C
https://ibb.co/94B41VP
https://ibb.co/MBGkDxx
https://ibb.co/T13H0xs
https://ibb.co/L0bMJBT
https://ibb.co/ct2XWhp
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Last pic was the oil spray nozzle installed “correctly” I suppose.
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sorry if the same comment was sent previously I don’t see my comment in this post so I’m posting again.
So I just replaced eccentric shaft actuator on my N20 but I installed the oil spray nozzle for the actuator and gear wrong(part #11377583786), I just removed valve cover to put the nozzle in correct way but part of the nozzle was shaved off by eccentric shaft and left markings on the gear.I would like to know if the eccentric shaft is still useable or do I need to replace whole shaft since there are markings on the gear. Can you please check is the oil spray nozzle installed correctly this time and are the intake and exhaust lobe on my engine looking okay.
Thanks!
Image are in the links below: https://imgur.com/a/fMeMeGR
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Thanks for the picture,,,yea I see a slight damage to the gear,,,,but it doesn’t look that bad,,,,you should be ok,,,let hope
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Thanks for the replay
I wonder where will the small pice of shaving that came off oil spray nozzle be? Will it matter if I don’t get those small pieces of metal shaving out of the engine?
Thanks
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Maybe do a oil service,,,,,all the pieces should go into the oil filter
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Hi, 2011 n55 335. Had the woodpecker noise for the last few months, the noise stopped now but getting warnings that engine operating at reduced power and no restart possible. I’ve been able to start the car with no problems and the performance has not gone down but a little rough on hard accelerations.
I’ve scanned the car with ISTA and have the following two codes:
2DE3 -valvetronic servomotor,activation, volt phase: line disconnection
371A – valvetronic, supply voltage: line disconnection
Looks like the valvetronic motor is dead and I don’t plan on replacing it. Is there any way to turn off the warnings, I have a huge engine light blinking blocking my display of time/temp that’s very annoying!
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Nope there is no way to turn it off,,,,every time the fault happens that light will come on,,,,,sorry
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Why do you not want to replace it?
The engine can be operated without the valvetronic.
But it destroys the intermediate levers inside the engine due to uneven wear.
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I can’t handle this job myself, the quotes I’ve been getting are 2-3K for motor + shaft and I don’t want to put money into this POS. I’ve already gone through two water pumps – exactly at 75K each, power steering pump, both rear calipers seized, oil gasket leaks, etc..
I also pulled up the following codes, it looks like the system shutdown the motor due to overload for protection.
036D4 – DME Internal fault, activation Valvetronic: malfunction
02DE5 – Valvetronic overload protection: servomotor overloaded
02DE9 – Valvetronic component protection, servomotor : deactivation system.
Can the only motor be replaced? Or is the DME the problem?
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It really hard to say if you have a DME problem,,,,you first have to replace the valvetronic motor and see if the problem goes away,,,if it doesn’t then you might have a DME issue also.
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Is there a eccentric shaft sensor on a n55 motor. I have a 2012 x5.
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Yes ,,,if you look at the middle of the valve cover there is a round electrical plug and that’s where the eccentric motor is.
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Yes i had the motor replaced and still having idle issues and still in limp mode. I didn’t know if there was a eccentric shaft sensor or I was thinking crankshaft sensor . I know it as the motor thats what you are reffering to right? Possible crankshaft sensor?
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Crankshaft sensor is completely different,,,question is the check engine light on and what are the faults
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2de1-3011 2c56-2dd8 This was a replacement motor with 80,000 miles after install shop said needed a eccentric motor I am not using that shop anymore so I don’t know if the rapid clicking was there before they changed the motor..Car idles rough for 2 minutes with a little white smoke then goes away and drives fine except check engine light reduction in power. I was looking for other possible answers before replacing shaft because shop or dealer couldn’t say that was exactly the problem. To replace shaft can you give me book time so I know cost so I can compare when the shop gives me there price
Thanks,
John
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Question is there still a rapid clicking noise,,,,if there is still a noise then maybe they did not perform the teach in procedure for the eccentric motor,,,,ok labor time for the shaft is about 6 to 7 hours
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They said they did. Would a bad shaft cause the binding. I gave them the one that came off my blown engine and said it would not engage because I was wondering if I got a bad motor from the dealer. Do you think it could be bad or because its moving that rules out a bad motor.
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If the motor is moving it should be good,,,the question is the shaft binding causing the motor to stop and bind
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Just replaced the shaft and the motor was changed now shop said its putting out a code for position sensor with not even starting the car .He thinks when they tried the original motor that came off my blown engine just to rule out that there might have been a problem with the new one they later realized it had a short and was putting out to much voltage going though it and damaged the ecm. Do you know a sure sign that the an ecm is bad. If it is buying used ok?
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My car 2011 X5 with N55 also has a rapid clicking noise when lock/unlock the car. Is the noise because of shaft binding?
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It could be the eccentric shaft motor or it could be both motor and shaft.
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Thanks for your quick reply. Actually, I got the eccentric motor replaced at an indie shop, they said the shaft is ok via manual adjusting. After the repair, there is no rapid clicking noise now. The relearn process is fine at that time and drives fine for two weeks. Then, the CEL is on and go to limbo mode some times. Code: 002DCE Valvetronic system: no adjustment possible. The indie shop told me that a DME update may solve the issue. Have you heard anything about this?
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Yes,,,a software update might take care of the issue
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Could you please give me can the book time to do the DME firmware update? Is there any risk for DME firmware update?
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We usually charge 1hr for software update
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Before I replace the eccentric shaft motor, my car 2011 X5 with N55 cannot start without the rapid clicking noise. But there is no driving issues, CEL light is never on and never go the limp mode. After I replace the eccentric motor, there is no starting issue and no rapid clicking noise, relearn process passed. But after two weeks, CEL is on and the car go to limp mode. Now, the relearn process failed, and rough idle. What do you think about the problem now? The shaft is so expensive, it that possible to just replace the bearing but not the shaft to solve the shaft binding problem? Thanks.
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Oh I don’t know,,,I have never just replaced the bearing and no shaft,,,to replace the bearings you have to remove the shaft anyway.
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Thanks. Remove the shaft is fine. The shaft part itself is almost $1000, not sure whether it can be reused. Based on your experience, what is the reason that the shaft is binding?
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Hi, here is some updates from my mechanic. After replacing the shaft and start the car, it goes to limp mode and says the engine need to be timed. After he times the engine, the car is driveable without go to limp mode. But a new fault code is on after driving 10 minutes. The faults code is “28A0: throttle valve angle – Intake manifold absolute comparison: pressure too high”. I did some research online, someone says the reason is the Camshaft Bearing caps were actually starting to fail. https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=977220
Do you have any insight about this fault code under this situation? Thanks.
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Yes it’s a good possibility that the bearing caps are going bad,,,,and that probably why the engine timing was off,,,,you might have the mechanic take a look at the intake camshaft bearing caps.
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You mentioned “take a look at intake camshaft bearing caps”. Is the “Intake camshaft” is the one you replace in your post? I mean is there only one camshaft or tow camshaft (intake camshaft and camshaft)?
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Also, can intake camshaft bearing caps be replaced without replacing the camshaft? Thanks.
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To be honest I don’t know,,,,I have never done that,,,due to the BMW’s protocols will not let us do that,,,,but I have seen some weird things,,,I have seen someone sand the camshaft bearing to make them smooth and it worked,,,,so yes I think it will work,,,you also have to look at the camshaft journals if they are still smooth.
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I have replaced the motor and the shaft and they are now telling me the dme might be bad. Is there a way to tell for sure if it’s bad. They are getting position sensor fault after the new motor and shaft installed without starting the car. The motor def movs but does that mean die is good. Before repaire was made I had reduction in power fault and intake camshaft install faulty. Car idled rough for first 2 minutes and ran fine and also made the binding noise. Just wondering if the due was bad would the car still run ok?
Thanks
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Yes if the DME was bad it still could run
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If I have a damaged me do the compan’s that advertise repairs for ecm and due really work and if I bought a used one can it work on my car?
Thanks ,John
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I have not tried a repaired DME,,,and no a used DME will not work on your car
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What is your error code before replacing the motor and the shaft?
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Based on your experience, what are the reasons that the eccentric shaft is binding?
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A lot of it is lack of oil services,,the shaft and roller bearings start to bind
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Normally, if just replace the eccentric shaft, is engine timing required or not?
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hello bmw tecnician
I have a problem with my BMW 535i N55 engine.
I bought the car 15,000 km ago and during test drive I received the error message 135604 valvotronic system no adjustment possible. after erasing this, I drove 10,000 km. only rough switching of the automatic at high speeds and long distances. then I got the same message again with number 135604 .. cleared and driven 5000 km .. only now comes the message more often and the car gets a motor failure message which makes it difficult to start and lose power every time. the car has a total of 105,000 km
help me!
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sorry that fault code 135604 doesn’t work for me,,,but what you are saying that the valvetronic system has no adjustment and difficult to start and no power,,,could be a bad valvetronic motor which would cause those problems.
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hallo bmw tecnician
ik heb een probleem met mijn bmw 535i n55 motor.
ik heb de auto 15.000km geleden gekocht en heb tijdens proefrijden de foutmelding 135604 valvotronic systeem geen vertelling mogelijk gekregen. na deze gewist te hebben heb ik 10.000km gereden. alleen soms bij hoge snelheden en lange afstanden ruw schakelen van de automatic. daarna heb ik weer dezelfde melding gekregen met nummer 135604.. gewist en 5000 km gereden.. alleen nu komt de melding vaker en krijgt de auto een motorstoring melding waardoor hij elke keer moeilijk start en vermogen verliest.
help mij!
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hello bmw tecnician
I have a problem with my BMW 535i N55 engine.
I bought the car 15,000 km ago and during test drive I received the error message 135604 valvotronic system no telling possible. after erasing this, I drove 10,000 km. only rough switching of the automatic at high speeds and long distances. then I got the same message again with number 135604 .. cleared and driven 5000 km .. only now comes the message more often and the car gets a motor failure message which makes it difficult to start and lose power every time.
help me!
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the car drives total 105000km
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Now here is the full story of my repair so far, Hope no repair in future.
At the beginning I notice a terrible clicking/ binding noise coming from the engine bay when I lock/unlock the car. Then, occasionally, the engine has hot start problems. It cranks, starts, rough idle and then stalled. No problem with cold start and driving and there is no CEL, but when I pull to the car to the dealer, it shows fault code P1030, which means the Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Motor has a problem.
First repair: I got the eccentric motor replaced at an indie shop, the mechanic said he feels the eccentric shaft is ok when he adjusting manually. After the replacement, the relearn process passed, there is no rapid clicking noise, driving fine, but sometimes a slightly rough idle.
Second repair: But just after two weeks, the CEL is on and go to limbo mode sometimes. The Fault Code is 002DCE Valvetronic system: no adjustment possible. The CEL light is on and off. When the mechanic runs the relearn process, it failed. After that, the car goes to limp mode every time it starts. The test plan for the motor passed, but the test plan for the eccentric shaft always fails at the second step. He also updates the DME firmware to the latest version, but the eccentric shaft test plan still fails at the second step. The mechanic then orders the eccentric shaft and bearing, and replace them.
Third repair: Just after the assembling and starting the car, the car went to the limp mode immediately saying the exhaust camshaft is off timing. He has to open the valve cover again and did the camshaft timing. After this, the car drives fine, but sometimes a slightly rough idle which is very similar after the first repair. But after a short drive, the CEL is on. The faults code is “28A0: throttle valve angle – Intake manifold absolute comparison: pressure too high”. He checked all vacuum lines, pressure switches, and MAF sensors. The smoke test passed too. Nothing is wrong. The CEL light is always on after erasing it and doing a test drive. We are really frustrated and decide to accept the fact.
But when I pick up the car after a short test drive, the CEL is off magically! I drove the car for several trips locally and highway for two days, the CEL is still off. Based on your experience, can you make a guess about what happens for the “28A0” fault code? Thanks.
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I have seen this only a couple of times,,,and it has to do with dirty oil,,,,I was also at wits ends and finally performed a oil service and my problem went away,,,,clean oil plays a big part in the vanos units and eccentric shaft motor and shaft,,,it needs clean oil to operate correctly
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Thanks. I just did an oil change two months before the repair. Should I do another oil change after the repair?
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You could if you like,,,,or let it be if it’s not broke,,,lol
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Have you dealt with fault code “28A0: throttle valve angle – Intake manifold absolute comparison: pressure too high” before? I am thinking whether I have this code before is due to DME reset and change the eccentric shaft/motor. The code is trigger before adapting/relearning finish.
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The code might have been before you reset the DME,,,question is the faults gone now after you reset the DME and performed the relearning the valvetronic motor.
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Hello, my 2013 X5 (N55) the current condition is “crank no start” the vehicle was scanned with an updated ISTA-D and this code is present. 002DDD6 and the SAE Code P10E2 the Valve Angle 179 Grad. Valvetronic Servomotor, Position Sensors, Short Circuit or Line disconnection. Scanned three different times all recommending replace the wire loom between DME and Valvetronic. Can you provide me with your opinion or directions? Thank you for all you do.
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What you need to do is check and unplug the connector to the eccentric shaft valvetronic motor and see if there is any oil inside the connector and plug,,,,if there is then you should see if the oil went into the DME,,,you will have to disconnect all the connector and see went into the DME,,,,if it did then you should replace that harness for the valvetronic motor to the DME and also replace the eccentric shaft valvetronic motor under the valve cover because that’s where the oil is coming from and causing the problem.
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Thank you for the quick reply, I did check for oil in the wire connector and no oil. What makes me think the loom is the first option is because the HPFP no longer primes when opening the doors and the rattle noise from the Valvetronic motor stop making noise. I have ordered the wire loom and it should arrive around Dec. 30th
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Sorry for the late reply, well I did try replacing the wire loom with no luck. I have an estimate of $2200.00 for replacing the servomotor replacement with a new valve cover and gasket. Shop said that I have a 50/50 chance the new serovmotor will sink, that statement seems weird? What are your thoughts about that statement about the price? Thanks in advance.
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The price does seem kind of high,,,,he should be charging you about 6hr labor plus parts,,,,,and yes you do have a 50/50 chance this will work,,,,you could have other issues maybe DME or eccentric shaft and levers
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“Valvetronic run-in procedure” is the term used in newtis.info
I can only hope the mechanic has been trained? lol
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In your opinion, what would be the average cost estimate or dollar amount for the above mentioned work?
Thank you.
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I don’t know how much it would cost for valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft and bearing replaced,,,,I can tell you the labor should be about 7hr plus parts,,,,if you replace just the valvetronic motor should be about 5hr
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Well, the servomotor did not work fix the problem, now the shop said there are additional new codes pointing towards the eccentric shaft and bearings out of specs? I am wondering if the DME has stored false or ghost codes according to a 2016 BMW Technical Service. BMW TSB SI B11 06 16
I have asked the repair shop for the new codes pointing towards the eccentric shaft and bearings, but no reply yet. Would you know what codes are related to replacing the eccentric shaft?
Thank you for any reply,
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No I’m sorry I don’t remember the codes,,,what usually happens is during the test plan it will tell you to replace the eccentric shaft and bearings
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Hello sir,
Glad you left the RV business, and back to BMW! I’m having issues with my 14 435ix (N55) automatic. idrive cycling threw multiple malfunctions repeatedly (hood opened, DT, Trans Malf, driver asst, ABS, STEERING malfunctions). During this time #6 injector leaked, subsequently replaced. No car is stuck in limp mode with codes:
***133E10, 123401, 123432
Do you think codes need to be cleared with ISTA or something more involved? Th
Thank you
John
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The 133E10 is the valvetronic issue,,,and the other 2 is with the wastegate,,,is everything plugged in correctly,,,,was any work done to this car recently
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Thanks for the reply,
Unfortunately,
My 2013 X5 (N55) with 50K miles needs the complete Eccentric Shaft Servomotor replaced and
$5000 to $5500 is the repair estimate. OUCH…!
Does anyone know if BMW will take responsibility and help BMW Customers with the Eccentric Shaft Servomotor problems?
Perhaps I already know the answer, BMW blames the owners?
Thank you for any replies,
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Wow ,,,I think that $5000 price to replace the eccentric shaft servomotor is to high,,,labor is 6hr for motor and shaft and bearing.
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I agree with you that the price is outrageous but what are my options?
I live in Midwest America and not enough resources in my area.
Help anyone?
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Can’t you find a BMW independent shop that is well known in the area
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Hello there,
I heard that weird sound from the valvetronic actuator today. I’ve just checked the codes and there is 002DE1 (valvetronic actuator motor, position sensor, plausibility: fine hall signal to each other implausibe). This looks like the typical problem and I’ll change this actuator for sure but it seems like there is a serious oil leak in front of the motor. Is it possible to change only the head gasket or i should change the entire part (head cover + gasket)?
Thank you, you are amazing!!!
Best regards from Europe
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I don’t think your oil leak is from the head gasket,,,if it a N55 motor it might be the oil filter housing or the valve cover gasket,,,,besides if the head gasket does it leak it usually leaks at the back of the cylinder head,,,I would clean the engine leak and test drive and recheck for the oil leak.
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Yes, sir. You are right, it’s head cover gasket leak.
VVT photo – https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Y0_cB0fSVq-oqFEhV6PestJaVgs5h_dh
Live-data:
The ignition on – https://drive.google.com/open?id=1maZw6UDcORhmV1mnE_gz3wrh0eZnGc8i
VVT 65.43mm
And the ignition off (right after the sharp knocking sounds) – https://drive.google.com/open?id=1u5I674a9kl6srV90YOyKrHxGf5DP67JO
VVT 00.00mm
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Yes you could have a valvetronic motor issue
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Hi bmwtechnician,
Car: 2012 X3 35i with 50k miles.
Car parked for two weeks. Started it up and drove about 30 miles. Car runs fine with no check engine light. Stopped to get a quick meal for 10 mins.
Pressed the start button, it cranked but no start. And Drivetrain malfunction message pop up. After a few more tries without success, I let it sit for a couple hours. And still no start. Although it still have the original battery, voltage is good. It cranks very strong.
I have bimmerlink, I scanned it and it said
” Code 113027, Relay ignition and injectors, supply voltageinjection: line break”
and
” code 801C06 VcmErrorSvtGeneration-SVT Is Generation: SVT- Could Not Be Generated “
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It really hard to say what the problem is,,,the code 113027 was for a old programming issue,,,which could be your problem,,,But I don’t like that line break and could not be generated fault,,,I would check the fuses and for any harness damage to start.
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Hi, I have a 535xi F10 2011, I have 3 codes 1)Valvetronic adjustment range: fault range check. 2)Intake camshaft: installation faulty. 3)charging pressure control: switch-off as consequence.
I changed my valvetronic motor and havent done the relearn test yet I will do attempt to do it tomorrow. checked the shaft seemed good so didnt replace it. Now my question is are these codes all related? Because I checked the timing 3 times and everything was perfect so it cant be that.. Please help.
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Definitely the valvetronic adjustment and the charging pressure are related,,,the intake camshaft might be related once the teach in procedure is done
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Hello, thanks for your reply and I hope you’re doing well. I managed to fix one of the problems with my timing being faulty. but now I have 3 codes:
134F04 – Valvetronic adjustment range: fault range check
121531 – Charging pressure sensor, plausibility: pressure before throttle valve too low
120408 – Charging pressure control: switch-off as consequence ( aka Limp mode)
Now from what i understand I have 2 codes to fix here for the valvetronic I changed the servomotor 2 times and it looks like its not fixed and the car wont even start the relearn phase it tells me that theres a fault in valvetronic and to fix it. I inspected my eccentric shaft and the last teeth have a little piece missing but when manually moving it is not causing it to jump so it is still working, what would you advise me to do ?
as for the charging pressure too low I really don’t know what I should do to find what could be the problem my charge pipe seems good could you point me in the right direction as to what I should do ? Thank you very much for your help!
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Ok you need to fix the valvetronic fault first because that could be causing the charging pressure faults,,,,you have to find out why the valvetronic won’t perform the teach-in procedures ,,,question can you clear the faults and then try and perform the teach-in,,,your do the faults remain and won’t clear.
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Thanks for your reply, even when I clear I can’t do the learning procedure, the code stays there. even if the code is not there immediately if I try to do the learning it will tell me that values for the test are not met and that theres a valvetronic fault that need to be fixed. for now im waiting delivery of an eccentric shaft and I will put a new servomotor as well, as for the charging pressure too low I was thinking maybe my wastegate actuator and I checked it and its not stuck or anything it all seems fine. I think I will also look for the boost solenoid valve and maybe it would help. tell me what you think and what should I do if I change eccentric shaft and servomotor and still can’t do the learning phase in that case it would mean my DME need a reflash or repair? I read online that sometimes the 2011 models like mine had these issues caused by the software in the DME and sometimes need to update it ? how could I do this update myself or what do you suggest ? thank you in advance you have been really helpful!
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Ok first thing your turbo boost charge might be related to the valvetronic motor issue fault,,,,so fix that problem first and see if the charge fault goes away,,,,now yes you can update the DME software but you need someone who has the technology and software to perform that task.
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also my car sound like really bad when idling but when gas is pressed its not making the strange noise, heres a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDubb7FCAgk
please tell me what this could be ? thank you ( im thinking misfires due to the valvetronic problems since the valves are stuck in a open position or something like that)
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Thanks for the video,,,sound like up have a major exhaust leak or a modified exhaust system
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Yes there is an exhaust leak but the noise of the engine is what makes me wonder what it could be ? The tapping sound when idling under 1000rpm
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Hi, got the P1030 code on different OBD2 app and 133E10 on carly. I don’t have the click noise some people mention happening when you unlock car. I have a mild to rough idle, nothing crazy as if it is misfiring. Car drivers fine no performance loss. 2015 bmw 335i xdrive, 50k miles.
Few weeks ago I replaced spark plugs to NGK one step colder plugs gapped at .022. I noticed some oil in spark plug wells, someone who I thought they knew there stuff, but I am thinking that maybe I have a bad VCG, would this cause my issues? Or is it the VVT and Eccentric shaft, really wishing its not, don’t want to dish out 3-4k on it. I am currently getting ISTA+ to see if I can get more precise codes. Thanks for any help.
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Yes the oil in the spark plug holes is from your valve cover gasket leaking and no that is not your problem,,,unless the oil damaged the ignition coil when it was sitting in that oil,,,then maybe that will cause a rough running issue,,,,but it still could be your VVT.
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Okay, so I had a tune on the car, and I returned to stock tune, and unfortunately it looks like things got worse lol… Now, the rough idling is gone, but during warmup it seems like its slightly idling higher, but once the exhaust valve opens, it goes to the line just above the 500 rpm mark, and doesn’t seem to be rough idling. Unfortunately it did stall out on me a few times now and the drivetrain malfunction popped up.
I read that there is usually a clicking noise before turning the car on, basically when you unlock the car, I don’t have that. Here is a list of codes from Carly App, 134A02, 135302, INFO 135704, INFO 135502, INFO 21A000. Could I be having these errors due to a bad battery? MY battery is 6 years old the original battery. I wrote 2015 that was a mistake, I meant to write 2014, built in March of 2014, so battery is 6 years old.
Thank you for any help in advance! I really appreciate it.
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Here are some clips of my car under the hood, first clip is when I unlocked the car with the key fob only. Second clip is when car was put into the on/ accessory position, click push button no foot on brake.
Thanks for help
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Thanks for the video,,,,,thanks for telling me your car has a tune and modified charge pipe,,,,lol,,,,first thing I would replace the car battery which could cause some issues and is the cheapest and easiest thing to replace to start,,,,and yes a low battery voltage can cause some weird issue with the VVT before start up because it need correct voltage and low battery doesn’t help,,,then I would see how the car runs,,,you still might Issues,,,,question did you have a piggyback on the DME?
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Haha, sorry I forgot to mention in first post. No piggyback, upgraded aluminum charge pipe, a bigger intercooler, upgraded air intake and catless downpipe. I had a bootmod3 tune on it which I have since taken off and am currently on the stock tune. I checked the battery voltage using Carly last night, it appeared to be in normal range, about 11 when car is in on position and steady at 15.0 when car is turned completely on. So since returning to stock tune, I haven’t had any issues. I took it for a little drive last night, and car never stalled, no rough idle, no other symptoms car drove like it normally did. Drove as if nothing was wrong. First thing tomorrow will purchase a new battery from BMW and install, they are closed today.
Are there any symptoms of a bad VVT and/or eccentric shaft?
Thanks again for your help, I truly appreciate it!
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Sounds like it is slightly modified,,,lol,,,,a bad VVT would be a clicking noise from the valve cover area during start up or shutting off,,,rough running or power loss
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Also forgot to mention, I am in process of getting ISTS+, and will attempt a relearn of thr VVT. Really trying to avoid having to pay $3-4000 to replace this, as I won’t be able to do this job.
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Hi,
I have a 2011 BMW 535xi that throw up the following codes:
135608-Valvetronic system no movement identified.
1F0904- Internal activating Valvetronic malfunction.
133010-Valvetronic servomotor activation malfunction.
133011- Valvetronic supply voltage malfunction.
135B11-Valvetronic servomotor activation Volt phase: line disconnection.
Drivetrain malfunction message pop up and also engine operating at reduced power and no restart possible. The CEL light as been permanently on since then. Can you please advised on what can be done
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Ok,,,first thing to do is make sure your battery is in good condition if it is 4yr old it might be time to replace due to those voltage malfunction and volt phase faults,,,,then if you can have some one run a valvetronic test plan and see if the valvetronic is operational,,,,I wouldn’t be surprised if you will need to replace the valvetronic motor to start,,,also maybe the valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft,,,,I hate to tell you these valvetronic faults can get very expensive due to its hard to say exactly what’s going to fix the problem,,,,sometimes it’s a process of elimination.
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I recently replaced my battery with non AGM 100AH H3-Varta battery. Must the battery be AGM to get the best of BMW F10?
Thanks
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Yes,,,it is recommended
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Hello, have a 2012 X3 35i with the N55, car runs perfectly fine, no drive or check engine lights but performed a recent dme scan with the code 133e10 relating to valvetronic disabled. I have no clicking sounds or drivability issues and was able to perform the valvetronic phase in test and stop point limit real using my foxwell, however I still have the code stored?
Also is it safe to drive my car cross country with this code? , thanks Kal
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Ok a couple of questions,,,can you clear the fault,,,,and how old is your battery,,,,just asking because if the battery is weak it can cause a valvetronic fault during cold start up,,,,,I wouldn’t drive cross country unless you can clear the fault and have it stay cleared
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I had replaced the battery 3 months ago but with a regular non agm battery, I believe H7 or H8 as typical with BMW. The Foxwell 410 reads the 133e10 code as a “permanent code” and I am unable to clear it using the foxwell. Every time I do a DME engine scan, this is the only code that shows up, no other code and there is no check engine or any indication, only the scan reveals this.
Thanks very much for following up.
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Ok that’s fine the battery has been replaced,,,,that’s very strange no check engine light on but you have a permanent fault in DME,,,and you can not perform valvetronic test failed,,,,,sound like you have a issue with the valvetronic motor and maybe the eccentric shaft binding.
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So I reran the valvetronic phase in relearn for 20 mins and could hear the motor clicking and cycling through its 450 cycles and then it does an additional 50 cycles to test the calibration results and it passed, then reran the valve stop limits and voila, the code has finally disappeared and is no longer in the DME.
Not sure what to make of it but I guess Ill keep an eye on it. I just changed the oil 100 miles ago and noticed I was 1.5 quarts down, I am not sure if this could have somehow limited lubrication to the unit but I cant explain it.
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Good news,,,,lubrication is very important with the valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft bearings
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I got my shaft and motor replace last year. After 1 year and 2000 miles driving, the motor dies again recently. The car cannot start and the motor does not move during the relearn process. Do you think I need to replace both shaft and motor again? or replace the motor is enough? Thanks.
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I would think just the motor would be fine,,,,have you tried unplugging and plug the motor back in,,,,,it’s kind of strange that the motor locked up after a 1yr and 2000 miles
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Do you mean open the valve cover and uninstall and re-install the same motor? Is there a way to know whether the motor is working after removing it from the car?
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The plug connector is on top of the valve cover,,,,just unplug it and make sure no oil is inside the connector and then plug it back in,,,no ther is no way to tell if it is working if you remove it,,,,the only way is to perform the teach in procedure with diagnostic equipment
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Hi BMWTechnician,
I had a generator failure due to which the accu was drained totally. During this time I heard a rattling sound from the right front at every single door opening (I mean pressing the FOB to open the doors). Due to the direction of the sound I had a feeling that it was the valvetronic system but that time I didn’t had any device to check and I was in believe that this happened because of the insufficient power from the accu. The depleted accu finally resulted an emergency stop right before I could get to the shop.
Replacing the generator made the sound disappeared immediately. However in the gauge cluster I still receiving different messages as ‘drive moderate’ or ‘after engine stop I won’t be able to start the engine again’ which I saw first time when I had the emergency stop.
I have bought Carly and checked the engine errors and got the following codes: 133010 – servomotor malfunction, 133011 – supply voltage malfunction, 1F0515 – supply voltage line brake.
Now not sure if I have servomotor issue or just need to check the supply cable and related electronics.
Could you please let me know what you think about this?
Apart this the engine runs fine not experiencing any issues with the car.
Regards
Pix
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Ok first thing I would do see if the fault will clear and see if it comes back,,,,now if it comes back you can check the connection at the valvetronic motor and make sure it is plugged in and that no oil is inside the connector,,,,then I would perform the valvetronic teach in procedure to see if the valvetronic motor is good or if you really have a bad valvetronic motor.
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Hello, The error message comes back after clearing the errors constantly no matter how many times I’ve cleared already so for sure there is something.
The connector on the top of the engine was unpluged and reconnected as this was my second guess. No oil inside but will check again. For sure it was not noticeable at first glance so I assume there is no oil.
How can I do the next step the valvetronic teach?
Pix
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To perform the teach in you would need some kind of diagnostic tool to perform this,,,you would have to go some good Indy repair shop or the dealer to have it checked out.
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I have made the check on the engine with prof. tool and it showed the same results what I’ve already stated before: some electricity problem for the Valvetronic. Scheduled a shop time to measure out the cable or if it will be possible to swap the cable with another to see if this change the behavior.
I am still wondering that can it be the generator causing the issue what I’ve swapped recently or there is no way for sor such side effect? Note that I still receiving error messages that after engine stop I won’t be able to start the engine again. This is due the reason that the generator somehow kicks only after the first rev of the engine. After this gives the proper voltage. The generator I’ve put in is the exact same model as it was before. (no clue why it is not providing the voltage immediately) The only thing that it was renewed and not brand new.
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That could be a issue with the generator,,,or is your battery in good condition,,,,because the valvetronic want voltage during start up,,,,now that being said the generator does take some time to supply voltage because the generator doesn’t alway supply voltage when idling because it is voltage sensitive,,,it will send voltage when needed.
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The battery is 1yr old so I don’t expect any trouble with it.
I was not able to catch what you meant here. It can be that the issue is due to the generator or not?
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The generator is voltage controlled,,,it will only start to supply voltage when needed,,,so when you start the car and the battery is strong enough it start charging until the battery gets to about 12.1 volts and then it will start charging.,,,Hope this make sense,,,,,I were you able to run a valvetronic teach in test
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I am still struggling with this issue. It appears that the Integrated Power Supply Module (Z11) does not give out the 12V toward the Engine Control Unit. On the input i have 12V while on the connector which supply the power for the Valvetronic port of the ECU is dead.
Ok bought a new Z11 Integrated supply distribution modul but the issue is the same.
It appears that the ECU must provide power too to the Z11 and then only the 12V will appear back to the ECU which subsequently will provide power to the actuator of the valves. Funny right?
So my question how can I know to avoid further unnecessary purchases that say the actuator (valve motor) is working or not? Can I measure a resistance between the power and ground port of the motor too see if it is ok? How can be assured that because the actuator is down it probably broke the part of the ECU which is dealing with the valvetronic? Also it is strange that even though the valvetronic is down the engine works perfectly. No noticable issues so far just the annoying error notices on the LCD. Let me now how can I check the that actuator motor is ok or not.
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The only proper way to check is with a diagnostic equipment and perform a valvetronic teach-in procedure and it will test and see if it is moving freely and reach maximum lift.,,,,also you said you have 12v,,,,make sure you have good grounds
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Well, the ground is somewhat is not stable. I could measure different values.
Is there any other option to check the actuator motor without teaching?
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No there is no other option on how to check the actuator,,,the test actually see if the movement is free and no binding.
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My car is an F07 N55. 535i GT.
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Hi, I have a M135i (Japan model) with a N55 engine (71K klm) which is showing the 133E10 code on a scan recently. Can’t clear the code (it reappears after clearing) and no CEL and no rattle from the valvetronic motor when using the key fob opening the locks. I’ve noticed a very faint knocking noise at idle which comes and goes (can’t be sure its related) which appeared about a month ago. Fuel consumption is up slightly as well. Did my yearly maintenance a few months back so the oil is relatively new ( Castrol 5w30 ) and the battery is showing 12.4v. I’ve check the Valvetronic motor to DME cable and can’t see any obviously problem (connectors looks clean and no oil or corrosion) Can you advise what I should l do next?
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Hi, I have a M135i (Japan model) with a N55 engine (71K klm) which is showing the 133E10 code on a scan recently. Can’t clear the code (it reappears after clearing) and no CEL and no rattle from the valvetronic motor when using the key fob opening the locks. I’ve noticed a very faint knocking noise at idle which comes and goes (can’t be sure its related) which appeared about a month ago. Fuel consumption is up slightly as well. Did my yearly maintenance a few months back so the oil is relatively new ( Castrol 5w30 ) and the battery is showing 12.4v. I’ve checked the Valvetronic motor to DME cable and can’t see any obviously problem (connectors looks clean and no oil or corrosion) Can you advise what I should l do next?
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Thanks for the info,,,,the next step would be perform a valvetronic test to see if the valvetronic motor is going bad,,,and you could also perform a valvetronic teach-in service and see if the fault goes away,,,,if it doesn’t then the valvetronic motor might need to be replaced.
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Thanks for the reply. I will get in touch with the dealer (car still under warranty) with the issue. In the meantime I am setting up ISTA + on my laptop so I can try and do the valvetronic run-in process myself.
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Hi, can you explain exactly what the 133E10 means in simple terms? The description given by the code scanner is hard to understand if you’re not a mechanic.
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It means ,,,valvetronic adjustment disabled to many error adjustments
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Have a 2013 x3 2.0L turbo what are your recommendations for oil change intervals 3000, 5000,7000 miles?
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Every 5000 should be fine
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Hey bmwtechnician,
Question about Valvetronic limit relearn. have an 2011 e90 n55 with new valvetronic motor/accuator. The indy shop I use say they don’t have the proper diagnostics to relearn the valvetronic. Do you have any idea want price range I am looking at to get it done, I’m assuming it will need to be done at a dealer? Thank you!
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You are looking at about 1 to 2hr labor
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hello,
i have an issue with my car. i have the codes 134f01, 134f04 both related to the valvetronic motor. however i do not have a check engine light nor do i have any clicking noise when i unlock the car. no issue with the car (been driving with these codes for 6 months) and only thing ive noticed is the terrible MPG i’ve tried to do the valvetronic relearn and still nothing. i was wondering if there is anything else i can do before replacing the eccentric shaft and motor?
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No there is nothing you can do,,,I would wait until the check engine light comes on to replace the valvetronic
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should i only replace the motor or both the motor and eccentric shaft?
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Oh that’s a tuff call,,,what happens when I perform a test plan and it motor performs that test at the end of the test it will tell me to replace the motor or replace both,,,,if you were good on your oil services and the inside of your cylinder head looks pretty good then I would just do the motor
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Hi Bmwtechnician,
I have a issue with my 2012 F30 335i (132000). Recently I had a check engine light when I started the engine and went to limp mode. I parked the car and scanned with ISTA+, I got 2 error codes 133E10 and 113B04 related to the valvetronic. I deleted all the codes check engine light cleared but codes were still there. When i start the car I noticed very minor rough idle and I did a test drive, It drove perfectly. I didn’t notice any power loss. When I open and close the doors, I could hear the Valvetronic motor sound and there was no rattling sound from motor. But I thought better to change the Valvetronic motor.
So this weekend I changed the vlavetronic motor with aftermarket VDO. I didn’t see any sign of worn eccentric shaft gears. It moved freely without binding. Now when I start the engine I noticed rpm wont go more than 3000. But there is no check engine light. I tried to do relearn process with ISTA+. I’m getting a error 134F01 and won’t let me continue. When I scan there was 134F04 also. I tried to delete the codes. But they wont erase. I can hear the motor is moving when i press the start button.
Additional: I’m still using the original battery. It almost 10 years old. But I never had a battery warning or starting issue. But I noticed when I scan with ista+ it shows S0398(battery worn out).
What’s your opinion? What caused 134F01 and 134F04? Do you think the battery is causing the issue? Or could it be the DME? May be software update from dealer then try relearn process? Please any advice will the helpful. THANKS IN ADVANCE.
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You might have a couple of things going on,,,first please replace the battery 10yrs is long enough,,,you need to perform the teach in valvetronic and then maybe a software update.
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Hello,
I have a 06 330i n52b30. It started a few months ago that I started getting 2A43 valvetronic thermal overload code and throttle felt bad. code came back pretty frequently. My mechanic ran some tests and told me that intake vanos is sticking mechanically and either intake vanos solenoid is bad or vanos needs rebuilt. I went home and interchanged vanos solenoids. I then got code for exhaust vanos mechanically jammed code and not the valvetronic thermal overload code. Then I replaced both vanos solenoids with new OEM ones. Later noe I am getting 2A43 valvetronic thermal overload codes and they are much less frequent now but still driving me nuts. Any Ideas tech?
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When was the last time you had a oil change,,,,sometime dirty oil can cause vanos issues
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I do oil every 5k kms
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That’s good on oil changes,,,You might be having valvetronic issues
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I do oil every 5k
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I’m getting 134F01 and 134F01. Can’t program teach in values with ISTA+. This is a brand new VDO servomotor on a 2014 535i. Prior to replacement, It had some signal plausibility error and something else I forgot with very minor rapid clicks on the servomotor. CEL was on.
Now with the new one, once I hit the ignition (not starting the car), I hear the rapid clicks again. I’m assuming that this is resulting in the DME not being able to program new limits in. Funny thing is that there is no CEL light, only when I try to drive it, i’m stuck between 3-4k RPM’s around 30mph.
I have it plugged in to a schumacher 700A supplying 14.5A, with terminal 15 reading at 13.9V
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Hi Eric, We both are having the same issue I guess. Did you find out why we can’t run the relearn process? My car still parked for last 2 months. Please let know if you find anything regarding this problem. Thanks
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So for me, I realized that the connector was damaged or loose or something like that. I moved it around and felt a small click, then connected it back to the servomotor. Upon ignition on, the noise went away and I knew that fixed it. Then I was able to initiate the relearn process
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Hi everyone, I fixed my problem. It was the valvetronic shaft. I didn’t see any wear on teeth or needle bearing. But somehow it was binding. I changed the shaft and I ran the relearn process. All good now. No more code or rough idle.
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Nice
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I’m getting the same codes 134F01 and 134f04 as previous comments. Car is connected to the a power supply, 14.5V output, reading 14.0 at terminal 15
The old servomotor was replaced because it was making a faint clicking noise upon waking up the car and had two permanent faults: no signal and something else.
The new servomotor, keeps making the clicking noise, much more audible and lasts about 1-2 seconds upon pressing ignition and not starting the car.
ISTA+ cannot teach in the limits, fails with those two 134 error codes.
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I’m getting the same codes 134F01 and 134f04 as previous comments. Car is connected to the a power supply (schumacher 700A) with 14.5V output, reading 14.0 at terminal 15
The old servomotor was replaced because it was making a faint clicking noise upon waking up the car and had two permanent faults: no signal and something else.
The new servomotor, keeps making the clicking noise, much more audible and lasts about 1-2 seconds upon pressing ignition and not starting the car.
ISTA+ cannot teach in the limits, fails with those two 134 error codes.
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You have to some how perform the teach in procedure for the servo motor
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Seriously? I told you that ISTA won’t do it because of 134F01 code. I already got a brand new servomotor just in case. It’s the same thing. It rattles and it won’t do learn position.
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Hi Eric,
Are you sure that the rattle comes from the actuator? In my case it was Integrated Power Supply Module (Z11). It has a relay which can produce a rattle in case of power issues. My car is BMW F07 535i GT.
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Yes it is. Ive held my hand there to check and it rattles, as if its jamming. Unplugged it too to confirm
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Good idea unplug the valvetronic motor and see if the rattle noise goes away
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Can you perform a test plan on that fault and see what happens
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Test plan executes valvetronic startup procedure. Tries to do the entire learn in procedure. Starts engine to condition for 60s, shuts off and restarts DME to *try* to clear existing valvetronic adjustment fault. Fails 3x and exits saying to replace valvetronic, eccentric shaft, and something else i forgot.
The shaft isnt binding, as far as I can tell. It rotates fine
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Did you inspect the teeth on the eccentric shaft when you replaced the motor? a teeth or two can be chipped off causing a rattle/clicking of the valvetronic motor. This happens because the motor binds due to the damaged eccentric shaft teeth.
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Yes you should alway check the teeth for any damage
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Teeth are fine. One of the first things i looked at
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Good
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My car car cranks but does not start and it has the following codes: 133E10, 1F0515, and 135B11. I opened up the valve cover and intending to replace the valvtronic motor, I found out pitted 5th and 6th cam lobe just like yours but the eccentric shaft teeth are all intact and not even a scratch on them. Do you advise me to replace eccentric shaft and intake cam or I can go away with just replacing the motor? The no start issue worries me as I’m skeptical about the ECU. What do you think?
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You can probably get away with just the motor and see if that fixes your problem
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I have a 2013 BMW 335i 6MT with 134000 km. It’s a F30. The valvetronic motor was clicking and causing the car to go into limp mode. I had my mechanic inspect the servo motor and the eccentric shaft. From what he saw he said the eccentric shaft seemed to be in good shape and moving freely. I told him to go ahead and replace the servo motor. After the servo motor replacement and resetting adapations I have codes 134F01 and 134F04. I tried deleting the codes with ISTA+ and to perform the valvetronic relearn. ISTA+ won’t let me do the relearn because of code 134F01. The car drives smoothly and seems to hold idle properly but will trigger a drivetrain malfunction sometimes with wide open throttle. Before the servo motor replacement the car felt like it had 50% power. Now it feels like it has 80% power. The car never gives a CEL on dash, just the drivetrain malfunction warning. Any idea what could be going on?
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Have you updated the DME
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Also when the mechanic replaced the servomotor was he able to perform the teach-in procedure
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No, I haven’t updated my DME. The issue seems to have been corrected for now. Long story short, after getting the car back I had my mechanic look at it once again. He tried calibrating the servo motor again. He mentioned that it took 4 attempts to calibrate the servo motor. The first 3 tries it would not do it. On the fourth attempt it calibrated successfully. I asked that he would take it for an aggressive test drive to make sure it doesn’t come back since the issue would happen under wide open throttle. Now I’ve driven the car about 50km in 2 days and it seems to be running as it should. Lots of torque below 3,000 rpm again.
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Nice
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I fixed mine. So what happened is the cap/plug of the servomotor somehow was not making full contact on all pins. I realized this after the third time around, i felt and heard a click when pushing the connector back in. IIRC, There was mention about this somewhere I cant remember
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Hello BMW technician,
I am also a technician and having a hard time with a 2012 X3 with an N55. Vehicle came in initially for an intermittent stalling problem when cold along with a surging idle which would cause the vehicle to lurch forward sometimes while at a stop in drive. The vehicle had no codes, scanned using an auto logic and also a cloned ISTA D scanner. I noticed however a rough idle so I recommended a walnut blast. Performed the walnut blast and no change. Could not replicate the stalling issue however I could feel the surging off and on. Customer took the vehicle and drove it for a month or so and returned for further diagnosis. This time I had a code for mixture to rich. Checked with scanner and noticed it was only rich at idle. Checked purge valve and decided to replace injectors. I performed the injector programming and also I found a TSB for intermittent stalling so I updated the DME to newer software. Found that the MAF was reading airflow with just key on and that customer installed cheap no name MAF so I replaced the MAF with an OEM unit. I also replaced valve cover (oil inside vacuum reservoir) and performed relearning of all systems including valvetronic. Test drove vehicle and it now idles very smooth, no codes, fuel trims good. The problem I am having is mostly when the vehicle is cold I still have an intermittent idle surge and rough running. I can here a noise coming from the valvetronic actuator motor that coincides with the stumble I feel and the surging idle. When the vehicle is driven and warmed up it will sometimes idle perfectly with no stumble and/or surging. At these times I do not hear the buzzing/grinding sound from the valvetronic actuator. No codes at all. I’m about to just put a new actuator in but I hate just guessing. Is there any advice or knowledge you could give me? Is there a pin out test I can do at the actuator? Anyways sorry for the long story and thanks in advance for your time!
Sincerely,
Tom
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I think you are on the right track,,,the valvetronic motor is probably starting to go bad,,,but it hasn’t thrown a fault yet.
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Hi, my f82 has a similar code 133E10 Valvetronic disabled, but the car runs fine no check engine light , no limp mode nothing. is there something to worry about or l should just continue driving like that?
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I would keep driving until it starts running worse
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i have a 2013 f10 N55, i had a bad servomotor that i have replaced myself, the car is running better now, but i still have a permanent code ( master adaptation outside tolerance) that keep causing an issue with the limit relearn procedure, any idea what causing this error?
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Problem could be the eccentric shaft and bearing or a software issue
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