N63 rear crank seal and rear coolant cover plate

 So I started this job and forgot to take pictures before I started,,,this is a N63  the rear seal and rear coolant plate have already been removed,,,,we have found out the rear crank seal and rear coolant cover start to leak,,,,so BMW has us replace both at the same time.  Here is the old and new coolant cover side by side,,,,the new one is nice and shiny billet aluminum piece,,,,you can also noticed the seal on the coolant plate is different. Here the other side of the coolant plate cover,,,,what a nice piece look like it made to fit a hot rod,,,,I think this is the first time for a billet piece of aluminum on a BMW ,,,,,,lol. Here the new coolant plate cover is replaced and the rear crank seal is being replaced,,,you might notice the plastic cap over the rear crank seal,,,that plastic cap comes with the new seal,,,,this plastic cap helps you install the rear seal so you don’t damage the seal during replacement.

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29 Responses to N63 rear crank seal and rear coolant cover plate

  1. rene says:

    is the coolant plate made by AGA ?

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  2. BMWSanDiego says:

    Thanks for the posting. Is there a good way to check this leak? Is it obvious from underbody after removing the cover? It must be a big job as you had to take the engine down?

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    • The oil leak is seen from the transmission bell housing,,,,you have to remove the transmission for the repairs

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      • BMWSanDiego says:

        I finally got this problem as exactly you described. I found the oil leak from the transmission housing in the back. I thought it’s a upper oil pan leaking but turned to be the rear main seal leak. They found it with the scope. It seems that they also replaced coolant plate as well from their repair order. One quick question is that did they just have to refill all the liquid(the engine oil, transmission fluid and the coolant) or totally drain and change?
        Thanks!

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      • The engine and trans oil you don’t drain just topped off the fluid that you loose,,,,the coolant is drained and replaced with new coolant.

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    • BMWSanDiego says:

      Thanks a lot for the reply! By the way, I feel the shake from the steering wheel and the seat on ‘D’ mode on traffic stop. It seems that it’s better(or fine) when it’s neutral position. I haven’t felt this vibration before but just after this repair. I doubt they would diagnose this for me though as the vibration is not really noticeable clearly. It’s like the one only the owner could feel the difference. Probably my butt is to sensitive.

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  3. Young Sandwich says:

    Did BMW ever say why they saw the need to make an updated plate?

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  4. A1 F02 says:

    Is this the latest problem with the n63 ? I have a mysterious coolant leak that cause my expansion tank to explode (come apart ), replaces it with a new one and it still draining coolant faster than I can pull out of a proof spot but it’s. I signs of leak on the floor, so I look inside my oil cap today mind you the car was cold and I saw a bit of gunk (google search of images looks like what oil + antifreeze looks like) but I was so stressed out I didn’t bother to check after I warmed the car up if it changed but I get no faults except the other when I tried to move it wouldn’t start because it was saying the engine temp high and coolant low so it wouldn’t allow me to start the car. Back to the gunk I have been putting sea foam in my oil for a few months (maybe I fu*cked his engine up a long time ago) oh by the way thanks for the vanos solenoid help a couple months ago easy fix. Any tips for my coolant problem I’ve change the Y connection already (months ago) but I will check it again to see if it’s worn already.

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    • Ok I’m worried that the expansion tank exploded ,,,what did the coolant look like,,,,did the coolant look like oil was mixing with it,,,,you said the inside of the oil cap looks like sludge,,,,,does it look like baby diarrhea if it does that is where your coolant is going and that s why your expansion tank exploded,,,,,you should drain the oil and see if any water is in the oil,,,,if there is coolant and oil mix,,,I’m sorry to say you have a big problem,,,maybe headgasket bad or cylinder head cracked,,,,,good luck

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  5. A1 F02 says:

    No oil in coolant, so drain the oil from the bottom plug and look for water ? Wouldn’t I get a error or some type of weird driving if head was cracked. Are these things that can be fixed from on top of or needs to be on a lift and I should probably let a shop handle it ?

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    • Yes drain oil from lower drain plug and look for water,,,no you wouldn’t get and weird faults or driving problems,,,,yes you should have a shop look at it,,,,this is going to get expensive

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      • A1 f02 says:

        took it to a notable shop. they recommended changing the engine. warranty company sends inspector, he sees no faults in the system opens oil cap and say yup change the engine. Now I’m sitting in limbo waiting for a answer from the warranty company.
        any advice ?

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      • Let’s hope the warranty company takes care of the problem,,,here’s some good news the N63 engines are cheaper from the BMW dealer because BMW knows the engine has problems

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      • A1 f02 says:

        Hi long time… still dealing with my dead car(AM* warranty denied claim), most recent news from a new shop claims it may be a problem with the turbos. so they had them sent out for testing, now that im thinking clear isn’t that impossible being the turbos have their own reservoir for coolant. im only losing coolant from the expansion tank and its clearly mixing with the oil although car still runs but very ruff no smoke. does anything else come to mind where the expansion tank would be mixing into engine?

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      • Yes the turbo has its own reservoir that little water reservoir in front of the alternator,,,,if you have water and oil mixing in the main expansion tank then you have a problem with a cylinder head or cylinder head gasket,,,the reason that it’s running ruff is probably that coolant is leaking into the cylinder,,,,when you remove the spark plugs are any of them look really clean the clean would be the cylinder that leaking.

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  6. Erin says:

    Hi and thanks for this.

    I’m about to tackle replacing the main seal (because it’s leaking) and coolant cover (since I will be in there) myself.

    Should I replace any bolts throughout this repair (bell housing, fly-wheel, seal, cover etc) or is it fine to reuse exsisting bolts?

    I will be working undercar with limited clearance, is there anything I should be aware of outside of the obvious safety precautions?

    Thanks in advance for your feedback.

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    • Man that’s a big job to tackle on the ground,,,,removing the exhaust and transmission won’t be easy,,,,you should replace the flywheel bolts all the other bolts will be fine,,,,good luck

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      • Erin says:

        Thanks! Yeah I’m still contemplating whether I should do this on the ground. Will let you know what I decide and how it goes.

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  7. Erin says:

    So I got in contact with a friend who has a lift in his garage. I will do the job there. Parts should be in hand next week.

    Sour of all of the special bmw tools that are “required” for the job, which ones do I absolutely need?

    In particular, do I need the special tool to hold the torque converter in place and the bracket to support the engine.
    See links :

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-550i-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-22-flywheel/1Lai5mf6

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  8. Daniel Bliman says:

    Hey There! I have an X5 from 2013 with the N63 engine. There is a significant coolant leak from the driver side towards the middle to the rear engine region I believe. I used a system pressurizer and the leak is pretty quick. Any ideas? I looked under the car behind the front left wheel and It does not appear to be coming from the rear main seal area, I am guessing since it appears to becoming from the left side of the engine. Recently replaced items were the turbo “T” lines as well as a thermostat. Thanks!

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