Ok some of you have been asking about what parts are needed to replace the timing chain and oil pump chain list,,,,here is a parts list for the N20 and N26 engine,,,you still might need some more parts like valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket.,,,I hope this helps
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vic san on N20 vanos unit broken Mark on N55 intake camshaft beari… JC on F30 A/C noise Jordan on New B engine mechanical water… jmiddle204 on X3 4×4 transfer case
bmwtechnician 
Thanks,
My n20 I at the dealer now at 30k miles getting all those parts plus a couple more like oil pump and more. I heard a whine through the rpm ranges, dropped my car off, a field service tech replicated the noises only on cold start. Received a phone call they will be replacing it all. Will know more by the end of the week but I would have never known without your page please keep going and thank you.
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Glad I could help
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So funny thing they replaced all the parts and they said the noise is still there so they are having a another field engineer or some tech guy look at it along with the puma case i imagine.
What could it be ? its a generic question to ask, i know.
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I have seen the oil pump be the cause.
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I am having the noise also. BMW dealership said the whine noise is coming from the oil pump and they quoted to replace the pump. Car is out of warranty so on my dime.
Is it possible to solely replace the chain in the pump rather than the entire oil pump?
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Yes you can,,,,you can replace the oil pump separately ,,,,but if you want to replace just the oil pump chain or the timing chain you might as well replace everything because you will have to remove everything to get to the timing chain and oil pump chain anyways.,,,then you are only paying for the parts and some labor.
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Hello, o have an buzzing noise on cold start and îs going away when engine îs worm, The timing chain and oil pump chaine are New… Any idee from where this noise îs coming? The oil pump îs running ok, 2.5 bar at iddle and 5 to 6 at 3k rpm.
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I’m sorry it hard to say where the buzzing noise is coming from without hearing it,,,it could be the Electric power steering rack,,,high pressure pump,,,alternator,,,many things could make this noise.
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so they ended up replacing all the above and the oil pump, car was returned in good working order, no whine and better power band it seems
Please keep up the work on here Tech i always check your page to see new things. THANK YOU !!.
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Glad I can help
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What was the cost for all this and where did you go?
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I don’t know what the cost is,,, the labor time is about 9hr
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So the seller dealer had his independent shop look at the vehicle and he agreed that the issues were the timing chain, guide, oil pump, tensioner etc. all was replaced according to seller. Seller drove the car for about 100km with no issues.
I drove the vehicle about 125 km home from seller. I woke up this morning to drive to work and upon start I got the drivechain malfunction error while vehicle was in park in the driveway. Shut the car off and tried to restart the vehicle and it won’t start. Says “drivetrain : vehicle cannot be restarted”. I am hoping that this is a failsafe to stop engine failure. Can you shed some light on what I can expect. Vehicle was towed to dealer today
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That’s interesting,,,,it’s possible that the engine is low on oil causing it to no start,,,,,let. me know what they find.
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An oil change was completed by the seller’s independent as part of the work.
I will update once I hear from the BMW dealer
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Ok heard from the BMW dealership. They are saying the problem is the valvetronic motor failed. After repair, oil change is needed as the engine was sending fuel into the engine and contaminated the oil.
The dealer stated that this failure is unrelated to the recent timing chain/oil pump repairs that were completed 3 days earlier. Is this true? i find i hard to believe that this could just occur so soon after the engine work.
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The valvetronic motor has nothing to do with the timing chain,,,the valvetronic is separate from the timing chain repairs.
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Would a failed valvetronic cause fuel to enter the engine and mix with the oil?
Dealer said this occcurred and an oil change is required.
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No a valvetronic would not cause fuel flooding,,,the valvetronic operates the valve lift has nothing to do with fuel,,,,sounds like maybe they screwed up and they are trying to cover something up.
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What could be the cause of the fuel flooding? Could it be related to the timing chain/oil pump repairs?
I’m so frustrated. Have had the car for 30 days and already had to replace timing chain, rails, oil pump, tensioner, valvetronic motor and now potentially something else. Car was purchased from a used car dealer but was a 1 owner lease prior to this directly from BMW. I am going broke on this vehicle.
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Sorry to hear about this,,,,the fuel flood probably fuel injectors
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Oh and the turbo feed line was also replaced due to smoking on start up
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The dealer is saying that the flooded engine was caused by the multiple failed start attempts by the dealer to start the car after it was towed there. Can that be the cause of the flooding?
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That’s doesn’t right,,,,I have never seen that on newer BMW
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The car is still at the dealer. I want to call them and make a suggestion as to what to look into. Should I tell them the fuel Injectors? Anything else? Will they get a code on scanner for the problem
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Yes they should have had faults for misfires and the spark plugs should have been fuel soaked
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Got the car repaired today. Plugs were fuel soaked. They cleaned and dried Plugs. Compression was low. Valvetronic actuator would not move thru full range. Valvetronic sensor and line disconnection faults present. Performed leakdown test. Excessive air leakage present past piston rings. They replaced valvetronic motor and parts changed were actuator and a gasket set. Car drives again. Hopefully this is the end of this nightmare. Does the above sound like they solved the problem?
Still concerned with their comments that plugs and cylinders fuel soaked due to repeated start attempts
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I’m still worried about the fuel soak,,,,,hopefully the valvetronic and sensor takes care of everything
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When replacing the timing chain are you lowering the cross-member to remove the oil pan? Is it possible to lift the engine enough to remove the pan without lowering the cross-member on a 2012 328i, manual, rear wheel drive?
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Good question,,,,I don’t know,,,,I have always lowered the subframe to remove the oil pan
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Are there special tools required to replace timing chain, guides, oil pump, and oil pump chain?
Thanks for your time.
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Yes there are some special tools for the vanos timing and holding the oil pump and flywheel
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Hi,
Thank you for posting the image of the parts for the N20 timing chain. Just some questions.
1. What is the Chain Drive ?
2. Sprocket ?
3. Chain Tensioner and Gasket Ring ? But there seems to be another Chain Tensioner on top ?
Also -> 3. Engine Oil Filter Kit – > therefore we also have to drain/replace the engine oil ?
4. Do we have to change the oil pump chain and the oil pump as well ?
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The chain drive is for the oil pump chain kit,,,,sprocket is for the lower chain sprocket,,,,tensioner for the oil pump chain,,,,yes replace the oil and filter
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You change the oil pump drive chain,,,not the oil pump
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Ahaa … So the Oil Pump -> We keep ?
Just change the Oil Pump Chain ?
So the Full List will be;
1. Oil Pump Chain ( Chain Drive )
2. Timing Chain
3. Timing Chain Tensioner
4. Timing Chain Tensioner + Gasket Ring
5. Timing Chain Guide Rail
6. Sprocket – Lower Timing Chain Area ?
7. Collar Screw ?
8. Engine Oil Filter
9. Engine Oil Drain / Replace
XX1. Valve Cover Gasket – Not Needed ?
XX2. Oil Pump – Not Needed ?
XX3. Water Pump – Not Needed ?
Note my F30 328i 2012 is at approx 100k km.
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Yes keep the oil pump,,,,replace timing chain and oil pump chain,,,,no waterpump,,,,you will need valve cover gasket
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Thanks !
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Regarding the Oil Pump – What is the lifespan ? I am 100k kilometres …If it fails, is there a warning light ?
Will failing of the oil pump be a catastrophic failure too ?
I understand that the water pump failure gives a warning message in the dashboard but unsure if we get the same warning for an Oil Pump.
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Thanks ! There is no reply link … So i am doing it here.
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Oops … Sorry
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Hi, does the front crankshaft seal need to be removed nd replaced also, thanks
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Yes you should replace the front crankshaft seal
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Ok will do, but does the crankseal definitely need to come out to do the timing chain,guides and oil pump chain module? Its much of a muchness as Ive ordered the tool kit (which wasn’t cheap) for front and rear crank oil seal as the clutch judders slightly on take off occasionally only and is ok then for a while I’m assuming the rear crank oil seal is weeping slightly so at some point that and the clutch will need changing.
The only tool I cant get is the counterbalance shaft tool https://goo.gl/images/kcaLVq
I can get this from Russian online websites as there seems to be copies there of it but is this absolutely needed or could I modify something.
Many thanks
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No the counter balance shaft seal doesn’t have to come out, just be careful not to damage it then you have to replace it.,,,that the only tool I know to hold the oil pump shaft,,,,I have seen some guys use a screwdriver or a small bolt that fits,,,,be careful
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Sorry forgot to ask, also if so does the crankseal need flange sealant like n54.Would you recommend replacing the serpentine drive belt, thanks
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No sealant on the front crankshaft seal,,,you can replace the drive belt if you want,,,,,is the belt cracked or covered with oil then replace it.
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Oops sorry while I’m at it what length of bar do you think I need to tighten front crank hub bolt. Thanks again
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Good question,,, the bar we have is about 4ft long,,,,the longer the better
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That’s a long bar, understood about the size, Il have a look around and get one thanks
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You can just use your breaker bar and slide a pipe over the handle to make it longer.
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Many thanks again for detailed info, great site keep up the work. Its nearly tempting me to buy a new BMW once I save my pennies!Lots of energy around the brand some good and some bad. They have the best style ,interiors and reputation on the road.
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Hi Andreas,
Do you know what design changes were made to fix the timing chain problem. I know the chain guide material was improved. Was the sprocket improved and if so, how. And of course the chain itself, why is the new chain better? And I assume the new tensioner just pushes harder against the guide?
Thanks Ned
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The new chain is stronger then the old one.
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Hi bmwtechnician – thanks a lot for all your posts and useful information!
Were there no part number changes made when BMW issue “better” timing chain, slide rails, sprockets, etc? I noticed that all part numbers for these components that are available for purchase today are the same as originally issued with the engine.
I’m looking at doing the usual N20 timing chain, slide rails, tensioner, oil pump chain kit job in my 90K miles, 2012 328i and want to ensure I use the latest and most up to date components available. Thanks in advance.
V.
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That parts list is all the new updated parts for the job.
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Great… thanks for the prompt response. If I wanted to change my clutch (manual transmission car) at the same time as replacing the timing and oil pump chains, in your opinion, would I be better off pulling the engine off the car to make both jobs easier?
Thanks again.
V.
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No you are better keeping the engine inside the car and remove the transmission to replace the clutch,,,and it’s easier to keep the engine inside the car to replace the timing chain and oil pump.
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Hi Andreas,
As I was driving on the freeway, the car lost power and displayed: “Drive moderately. Maximum drivetrain output not available. Consult Service Center”. I arrived home and my handheld scanner gave me a P0015 Code “B Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1”
Checked the chain slop through the oil fill cap and it was pretty loose – assume part of it because the engine was off and there was no oil pressure in the tensioner. Nevertheless got into my engine (2012 N20 – 328i F30 car) expecting to find a stretched chain or broken chain rails. To my surprise, the chain was not stretched (compared to the new part I already purchased) and the rails were intact!!
Thinking further into what the issue could be thought perhaps the VANOS Adjustment units were getting “Stuck” in a retarded position…
My question is: is there a way to clean the VANOS Adjustment units and the central valve?? I rather not buy new units are they are quite pricey – and seem like a simple enough part that could be cleaned somehow??
Much appreciate your input!!
VMG
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Sorry I don’t know of anyway to clean the vanos units,,,maybe someone out there has had success cleaning them.
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I’m struggling to find the tool that locks the flywheel/crank in place for a manual transmission car:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-328i-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/4zf8JCi
Any suggestions on where I could get this or if I can use something else to lock flywheel in place?? I’m concerned about damaging the flywheel teeth…
Thank you,
V.
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No I’m sorry I don’t have any idea on where to get that tool,,,the problem is that you have a manual trans and BMW like to over design their tools
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Hi,
Thanks for posting this. I have a question related to Washer (11237600595). I have N20 with automatic transmission and looking at my invoice I see that I was charged for this part. I know that it costs pennies, but I still don’t like to be overcharged for items that I don’t need.
Do you know if there are any cases where it is still needed on automatic transmissions? What is the purpose of this part?
Thanks in advance!
V
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That washer is the front crankshaft washer,,,,you have to remove it when doing the timing chain repairs,,,and sometimes when we remove it the washer is damaged,,,,so the tech replaced it while he was doing the repairs .
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I am sorry, but probably I didn’t explain right.
In service bulletin that you posted it is written that this part (11237600595) is for “Manual Transmission vehicles only”. And my car has Automatic Transmission. I hope they didn’t install it somewhere where it shouldn’t be.
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Ok I understand now,,,,,I never noticed that part for Manuel trans only,,,,that’s probably because we very seldom see manual trans anymore,,,,ok back to you issue,,,,I would ask the dealer why that part is on your car when your car is a automatic,,,,it doesn’t make any sense
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Hi,
I searched for a while but couldn’t find a picture of the parts list for the oil pump guides and chain parts?
Thanks again for taking the time to post all this and reply to everyone.
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There the list of part numbers and parts on this post
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Is this list accurate: [IMG]http://i68.tinypic.com/73342o.jpg[/IMG]
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http://tinypic.com/r/73342o/9
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Yes that looks like the complete list,,,you still might need a couple of things,,,,each vehicle is different
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Hi, I am thinking to buy a 100,000miles X1 sdrive 20D 2010 model. Am i safe to assume the timing chain issue started for the 2011-2015 N20 engines, so i should be OK?
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Correct the issue was only with the gasoline engines not the diesels
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Hi,
My car was in BMW service for oil change and they told me that high pitched whining noise is coming from engine. In their quote they include timing chain adjustment units/Timing Chain Sprocket Intake Camshafts (11-36-7-583-818 and 11-36-7-583-819) which are pretty expensive. They told me they are in there in case there is damage but service advisor told me that they are generally damaged. I don’t see this parts in the bulletin. Do you think it is necessary to change them? What kind of damage could it be?
Thanks a lot for your time!
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I understand if they are damaged,,,but most of the time they are ok,,,we very seldom have a problem on the N20 and N26 engine,,,,we have problems with N51,N55,N52
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Thanks for your reply and help, Andreas. Also, I am sorry that I forgot to mention that my BMW is 2012 528i Xdrive and the mileage is 64,650. I bought the car like 2 months ago and 7/70k extended warranty expired on 3/31/19. What made me upset is that before I bought the car, I took it to BMW dealer in WI for pre-purchase inspection and they didn’t warn me about anything. I drove the car 1500 miles and my local BMW dealer in Pittsburgh told me that noise is there – loud and obvious. I don’t know if I should believe it happened in less than two months so bad luck or very poor BMW service.
What kind of damage can camshaft gears have? I really don’t want to change the gears unless it is necessary. 2 gears costs $1,000.
Do you know how much it is cost to change timing change? I read somewhere in your blog that it is 9.5 hrs job but BMW service said 20 hrs. I want to make sure my dealer is not overcharging me.
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The camshaft gears can cause rough running issues if they are bad,,,yes the labor time to replace the timing chain and oil pump chain repair only pays us 10hrs,,,,20hr is crazy,,,,to replace that engine pays us 16hr,,,,what the hell are they doing for 20hr that’s not right.
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Got it, thanks! When the car has rough running, does it throw a code? Or it is only what mechanics feel when drive or check the car.
May I ask what bmw dealer you work at?
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If the camshaft gears goes bad it will throw a vanos gear fault,,,,either intake offer exhaust vanos gear fault,,,,I’m sorry I won’t say what dealer I work for,,,,just that I work in California
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I wanted to ask the VANOS valve can it be changed easily I can not tell from the engine view but it appears they hold the gears in place. I just wondered. Also do those valves go bad normally or is it the actuator that goes bad.
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The vanos valves on a N20,N26 are not easily replaced,,,you have to remove the valve cover,,,,the actuator are really easy two screws for each one and they are on the front of the valve cover,,,,neither one goes bad that often does
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Well the reason I asked i have a 2013 328i xdrive with the N20 engine and I am getting the old drive train malfunction. When I check the codes I get a P0015 for the exhaust camshaft position sensor. I went ahead and changed both of the camshaft sensors but the problem still exist. It does not come in till the oil temperature is up to normal operating temperature. Usually it will come in at around 10 to 15 miles of driving. I assumed the next step would be the Vanos valves or actuators but not sure at this point. I don’t know if the timing chain has ever been changed and it has 116000 miles on the car so if I have to change the Vanos valves I was going to do the entire front of the engine this way I only open it up once.
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If you are going to do that,,,then replace both vanos units
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Hello and thank you for having me join.
Question on my 2011 528i, I recently had the BMW car dealer service Tech repair my recall on a fuel line something and when I went in to pick up my car, the AC is bliwing hot air so I asked, “what did you all do” they said nothing close to the AC. Although they did mention about my valve cover gasket has a very bad leak. So they had me drive the car home and I scheduled a repair on my valve cover gasket leak. Now my car made a grunting noice the day before I was to drive it to the shop, so I said, I’ll wait for the mechanic to check. On the day of the repair, I had to call a tow truck because my car made that noice and didn’t want to start.
So at the shop the mechanic goes, battery is low voltage, but he’ll take out all the parts to do the calve cover gasket. So the next day after taking everything out he say’s the Timing chain everything looks ok, but he’ll need to try a new higher voltage battery and or check the fuel areas for the cause of not starting. Then he calls me back an hour later and says he has bad news, the vano something won’t turn, so I asked, can you fix it? He says, buying a new engine would be the cheapest way!! I’m like what? You are kidding me, buying a new engine ain’t cheap at all. But this is what I’m trying to figure out, how come he didn’t noticed the vano something not turning while he was checking the Timing chain and everything. Is he trying to get more money from me. Please help. Thanks
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Hello and thank you for having me join.
Question on my 2011 528i, I recently had the BMW car dealer service Tech repair my recall on a fuel line module something and when I went in to pick up my car, the AC is blowing hot air and it didn’t do that before I brought it in, so I asked, “what did you all do” they said nothing close to the AC. The only thing they did mention is about my valve cover gasket has a very bad leak. So they had me drive the car home and I scheduled a repair on my valve cover gasket leak at another auto shop. Now my car made a loud grunting noice the day before I was to drive it to the shop, so I said, I’ll wait for the mechanic to check on it. Unfortunatly, on the day of my repair, I had to call a tow truck because my car made that noise and now won’t start at all.
So at the shop the mechanic goes, we’ll do a test if its the battery running low voltage, but he’ll have to take out all the parts to work on the leak gasket cover. So the next day after taking everything out he calls and say’s the Timing chain looks ok, everything looks good there, and he’ll need to try a new battery with higher voltage and also check the fuel areas if any of those are the reason for not starting. So I felt relief it might be a minor problem. So about one hour later, he calls me back and says he has bad news, the vano something won’t turn, I guess like a wheel or something, I immediately asked, can you fix it, repair it? He says, buying a new engine would be the cheapest way!! I’m like what? You are kidding me, buying a new engine ain’t cheap at all. But this is what I’m trying to figure out, when he first checked the Timing chain and all, how come he didn’t notice the vano is not turning (as he say’s) Is he trying to get more money from me. Please help. Thanks
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This whole thing doesn’t sound right,,,,how did this go from some kind of fuel module,,,you drove home no a/c and now it won’t start and they said it was a battery now it’s a motor,,,,this all doesn’t make any sense,,,,can you take the car to a different dealership
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