Ok I know this recall has been out for awhile, the PCV valve heater recall well the dealer are just starting to get the new updated parts finally,,,,the PCV valve here pictured sit right in the middle of the intake manifold on the inside next to the engine block,,,you have to remove the air filter box the drive belt and the alternator,,,,so you can reach around and remove the torque screws. Here is the new updated PCV heater valve , there is no visible different with the old and new,,,interesting thing BMW doesn’t want us to put any grease or spray on the o-ring seal when installing the new part due to the heat of the PCV valve heater.
vic san on N20 vanos unit broken Mark on N55 intake camshaft beari… JC on F30 A/C noise Jordan on New B engine mechanical water… jmiddle204 on X3 4×4 transfer case
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What is going on with the blower motor recall?
The blower motor recall we have not gotten any parts for that yet,,,,we have to check the wiring and plug connector at the final stage at the blower,,,,we have to see if the wiring is burnt and repair the wiring and connector and maybe a new final stage
Can this recall have impact on alternator becoming over heated and going bad .
No this recall has nothing to do with the alternator
OK. Off topic. I just finished perusing 2018-2016 archives and I have to say it was a great read for someone who likes the brand. I have a question about aftermarket tunes. The forums are full of guys saying that BMW will restore a factory warranty if a tune has been removed and one the salesmen for CPO cars said that same when he tried to get me into a CPO M3 (Can someone say spun-crank hub and never mind the fact that BMW hasn’t built a reliable engine for the M3 in almost 20 years!!!).
Do you have anything to add regarding BMWNA’s stance on factory warranty for formerly tuned cars?
This is a tuff one, BMW doesn’t liked aftermarket tuned car unless it’s Dinan tune, see the problem is some of these tuners don’t care about what the engine can handle,,,the tuner just cares about making the most horsepower they can for the happy customer.,,,some time these engine are over rev,d and they lean out to make more horsepower causing more damage,,,,don’t get me wrong I like to drive a tuned M cars
My blower motor went in 2016 and again in 2017. Do you think it would be something else related. The difference in both times when it went was,the second time it started to smell like burning plastic and smoke was coming up.
What model of car are we talking about,,,it could be something different like the final stage for the blower motor could have caused the problem this time.
Didnt know where to write but i have a 2004 525i e60 m54 when the engine gets warm the red error message come on the Idrive that the oil pressure is low, the message goes away when i press the gas peddle ever so slightly to bring up the rpm.things i have done so far
replaced all coils and plugs
replaced all vaccum lines in the inlet
replaced the DISA valve (it was bad)
replaced the oil and oil filter
replaced the valve inside the oil filter housing
rebuilt the vanos
replaced the valve cover gasket
replaced the oil filter housing gasket
replaced the throttle body gasket
cleaned out the throttle body
cleaned out the ICV
Replaced the Inlet manifold gasket
Replaced the Air filter with AFE filter
Please help if you can with anything i need to look at
Wow looks like you did a lot of work already,,,,you need to check the oil pressure with a gauge,,,,you could have a bad oil pressure switch
Im so sorry that is the very first part i replaced. I totally forgot to add that to the list
I am waiting on the belts and pulleys to arrive so ill replace them and take the car to the dealer to diagnose the issue and ill try to fix it at home with my kids. They love working on tue car so its z noce project car.
Update, I fixed the problem. So after all the work i did was all worth it cos all the ites were worn out and in need of replacement. So the main thing that fixed the Red low oil pressure light was a small valve inside the OFH, when i removed the OFH i saw a round part and it had a + black plastic piece inside the plastic piece is a valve with a spring at the bottom, the plastic + piece moves up and down and it had etched a mark on the aluminium housing and was stuck, i took a 1/2 inch socket extension and hammered it inside then i used a breaker bar and twisted the valve and housing out cleaned inside the OFH and then pulled the original spring out installed it in the $32 housing that i bought from bmw-vanos.com it was an easy install just pushed it in by hand and then placed a small piece of wood block ontop and hammered it in till it was flush. installed a new OFH gaskit and 2 cans of engine degreaser to clean up the engine from the oil leak. oh and i also replaced the Serperntine belt and pully (cos they were worn).
added some Seafoam and drove the car and no more issues.
car runs great, Just ordered 4 new Cooper tires and will get it installed balanced and wheel aligned to 0 so no -camber and hope my tires last this time.
Oh and i rebuilt the vanos also replaced all the seals even the solenoid seals ordered from bmw-vanos.com very cheap repair.
I hope it helps someone who has this issue.
Thanks for the info,,,,nice job