Here is the latest update you might find when you bring your car in for service on G12 and G30,,,turbo oil lines update.
This is a picture of one of the old turbo oil lines as you can see the oil line is rubber and they have been known to start leaking oil.
Here is a picture of both of the old oil lines removed,,,,one of the hoses was justed to weep oil.
And here are the updated new turbo oil line that are now steel braided oil lines which will last a lot longer and take the heat better with the turbos.
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bmwtechnician 
This is funy. The better Steel-Version was used 8 years ago in the first revision of the N63. The rubber version was eventually cheaper., so they tried to change. 🙂
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ROFL…I’d love to be a fly on the wall listening to the conversation between the engineers and the accountants.
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Hey there! Love the blog. So I am going to ask a question you’ve heard a 1000 times probably 🙂 Was offered to upgrade my 3 series for a 70k miles 2011 550 with n63. And of course there is a mass hysteria on all forums about this engine and car in general being a huge problem. Am I asking for a world of pain getting this car or is the repair/maintenance of this manageable assuming a clean record and perhaps some safety from extended warranty? what’s your experience take on the car? Should i stay away at all costs, proceed carefully or roll the dice and be pleasantly surprised? Would very much appreciate you opining here. Thanks again!
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Lol,,,, you just made 1001 times that’s ok,,,please stay away from that car,,,,that N63 engine is not something you want in your life specially a second hand N63 with 70k miles
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I always hear that N63 is horrible and N63TU is not much better (class action suits). How about N63TU2 in a G12? Are you seeing a lot of those with serious problems? Other than leaking turbo coolant lines for which there is an easy DIY fix to replace just the rubber parts, I see very little issues reported by people on forums, and forum people tend to be very vocal.
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Yes the N63TU2 has come a long way,,,they do have a new up date steel braided turbo coolant lines which are a lot better.
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Thanks, are you starting to see more issues with N63TU2 other than turbo oil/coolant lines? I was going to buy a 2016 750i xd, but didn’t when I found out the in-tank fuel pump failed 5 times, replaced by 5 different dealers. It would blow a fuel pump every 3-9k miles. Most recently, wire harness was also replaced. Have you seen this before? Does that usually fix it, or still a risky gamble?
Maybe it’s a lucky break I didn’t buy it and I should look for one with B58 instead, but I really liked this one. Every single option, super rare.
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No I haven’t seen in tank fuel pump go bad or the harness,,,,maybe this car has been in a accident,,,,also when you replace the in tank fuel pump they should also replace the EKPS which is the fuel pump relay which could be causing the whole problem with blowing up the fuel pump,,,the turbo coolant line have been updated to steel braided hoses
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Very curious, you said B58 is a safer choice. What kind of problems might N63TU2 have that are less likely to happen with the B58?
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B58 maybe water pump leaking,,,N63 you still might have issues with injectors,vanos units,turbo coolant hoses,,lean mixture faults
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Thanks for the reply, bmwtechnician! Good to know the N63TU2 has come a long way. Has it come far enough to be at least as reliable as the B58? I really want a G12 xDrive and preferring N63TU2 due to being a ton more fun. As a DIYer though, things like starter R&R, intake gaskets, walnut blast etc look like huge jobs seems a little scary. Just wondering if a B58 is a smarter choice or if N63TU2 with all the SIB updates is equally as solid.
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I hate to say this but the B58 would be a safer choice
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can you write code of new oil lines please?
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Sorry it took so long,,,,I just added to the post with the parts list
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Hi there, love the blog. It has helped me out several times since I am the proud owner(sarc) of a 2009 F01 750I with N63 engine. I have replaced the rear rmain seal and the plate above it as well as the oil lines and coolant lines in the past. Now I have a no crank, no start condition. New AGM battery, registered as such, fully charged. When I push the start/stop button, nothing happens.All other lights and systems work.
How do I troubleshoot the starter system on this engine?
I appreciate any help you can give !!
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I’m glad I can help,,,,sounds like a starter,,,,but the only way to check is if you can get to the starter wire on the starter and put a test light on it and have someone at the same time try and start the car,,,,if the test light lights up then you need a starter motor,,,,if it doesn’t then you have a problem with the CAS system.
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Thanks, that is the way I was approaching it. It’s nice to have expert confirmation !!
If it is CAS related, I guess that involves dealer coding, etc. ?
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If it is the CAS then you would have to special order a CAS and program.,,,,I don’t think that your problem,,,your problem should be the starter motor
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