Coronavirus has shutdown work

It has just come to my noticed that are dealership has shut down due to the Coronavirus,,are dealership was hoping to stay open with a skeleton crew of technicians to help out are customer,,,,but with the pressure of the government and for the well being of his employees,,,,we have shut the doors,,,I will still try and answer some questions for you,,,I just don’t have access to BMW information or wiring diagrams at this time,,,I hope everyone is safe and healthy.

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86 Responses to Coronavirus has shutdown work

  1. Ryan M says:

    I’m sorry to hear that. Hopefully you and and your family stay strong and healthy.

    Like

  2. Augie says:

    Always appreciate your efforts. Stay healthy!

    Like

  3. MICHAEL WILSON says:

    Sorry to hear you guys shut down. Be safe and I’ll say a prayer things go back to normal quickly.

    Like

  4. Randy St.Cyr says:

    Say home and stay safe.

    Like

  5. Jon Cal says:

    I work at a BMW indy shop in Los Angeles. The shop is not open to the public and only finishing cars that are here. I’m working reduced hours at the moment. Hoping to open back to the public on April 1st depending on what govt. officials say. LA City and LA County have declared Auto Mechanic shops essential to be open for business.

    On another note, I have a 2010 X5 4.8i N62 with a slight wobble on crankshaft pulley at idle but when revved up to 1500-2000rpms, the wobble is gone. No noise complaints. My tech thinks it’s normal but have no other N62 engine to compare it with. What do you think?

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  6. MICHAEL WILSON says:

    I have two quick Question. 1. For Vanos solenoids is it normal to have a reading of postive on one side and a Negative reading from scan tool on other? 2. customer care package was done on N63, they stated the timing chain was fine. After given back once completed it now needs a crankshaft seal. Is this possible this failed after the package was completed? Now has check engine light and famous DTM limited power. Vanos are working fine. But does pop up bank 2 and sometimes uncontrollable vanos.

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    • It looks like you have more than two quick questions,,,,lol,,,yes normal readings on vanos solenoids,,,,no the crankshaft seal didn’t fail because of the customer care package was performed and it probably just failed because of age and worn out,,,how do you know the vanos unit are ok,,,it could be vanos units or vanos solenoid,,,it hard to say without any BMW codes

      Like

      • Michael Wilson says:

        Vanos was tested at dealer and they stated Vanos is working properly. I have only changed the two solenoid on drivers side, but not on passenger side. It’s amazing to me that now after package was completed I have an oil leak, a check engine light, and DTM light. Before I didnt have any symptoms except for the occasional smoke out tail pipe and i had to fill with oil. Thank you for your advice.

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      • The problem is the fault said bank 2 which is the drivers side,,,you said the vanos solenoids were already replaced which is good,,,also the dealer tested the vanos unit and they said they are ok,,,now here comes the problem that test is crap,,,,when we run that test almost 90% of the time it says the vanos units are ok,,,the test will advance the vanos units and checks the degrees of advance,,,the problem when driving is that they advance and retard timing it only take one time that they bind or get stiff and it throws a fault,,,,,I’m not saying that’s the problem,,,but that vanos test is not always the answer,,,,good luck

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        Thank you so Much, your awesome. Keep up the great work.

        Like

  7. Craig Lenord says:

    I am sorry to hear that your shop has shut down. I hope you are doing fine sir. I was wondering if you knew if on the n20 engine you could replace the cam cap from a donor’s head or order new caps? if not could I polish them or try to repair them?
    thank you and have a great day

    Like

    • Now swapping and no new ones,,,they are machined to each cylinder head,,,,and yes you can polish them very slightly and try and clean them up,,,,I seen it done,,,try not to take any material of because that could cause a problem.,,,good luck

      Like

  8. nankiboparai says:

    Always appreciate you knowledge sharing and information.
    Stay Safe.
    Thank you and Good Wishes.

    Like

  9. Are you on skype? dfitz21000. I was wondering what you thought about the N55 eccentric shaft issues. Is the shaft actually bad or is it the roller bearings. I have moved them and they feel perfectly free but fail the test. Any insight? Could we get away with just replacing the bearings since I can see anything physically wrong with the shaft?

    Like

    • No I’m not on Skype,,,I couldn’t really tell you what the problem is,,,when we performed the test and it failed BMW had use replace both at the same time,,,,we don’t know what reason they had us do that,,,,I understand from where you are coming from the problem should just be the roller bearing binding up and causing the whole problem and just replace the roller bearings,,,,the only thing I can think of is that the roller bearing might wear a groove into the shaft,,,,the other thing is that you have to remove the shaft to replace the roller bearing, so how much does the shaft cost?

      Like

      • Dan says:

        Shafts alone are $894 wholesale. There are 6 roller bearings at $12 each. Seth says the coating on the shaft wears off. I can’t , with my eye, see anything. I might just put bearings in and see what happens

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      • I understand,,,,let us know what happens,,,👍

        Like

  10. Ymk says:

    Hi
    Im the owner of a bmw 328i 2012 with the n20 engine
    The car has 105000 km city driving with minimal highway driving
    Temperature is 8 Celsius minimum in winter and 30 maximum in summer
    I change the oil every 5000 miles (8000km )
    I’m using eurol 5w40 syndura (fully synthetic oil). Made in holland

    https://eurol.com/en/products/eurol-syndura-5w-40/

    Can u plz check the website and the oil specifications
    Thank u for letting me know if its a good oil for this n20 engine
    And whats the preventive maintenance for the timing chain problem

    Like

    • The recommended oil is 0-30 synthetic,,,,it doesn’t matter which brand company as long as it is not a cheap oil,,,,on the timing chain there is no preventive maintenance on the timing chain.

      Like

  11. Jorge G says:

    Hi, I’m sorry to hear you are also suffering during this crisis, I am also affected, I live in the US.
    during this time I decided to do some mechanic work on my BMW and I’m stuck on a situation, I want to ask for your opinion on this issue.
    I have a 2010 BMW X6 M, it has been leaking oil, after following the leak me and a friend came to the conclusion it was the rear main seal, we removed the transmission and other components around it, after getting a closer look at the rear main seal we noticed the leak was a little higher by the “Rear Engine Block Coolant Passage Cover” there are some screws but next to the top middle screw there is a whole almost size of the screw wholes, looks like that is where the leak comes from, does that make sense? that whole goes deep back to the engine.

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    • Yes this is a drain hole,,,so when something leaks from on top of the engine it will not puddle and it will drain to the ground,,,,check your turbo oil feed lines might be leaking

      Like

      • jorgegas says:

        thank you so much for your quick response.

        I have 1 more question.
        sporadically I get this alert messages on the car “Level control system malfunction” or “license plate lamp malfunction” or “park malfunction” but there is no issues on any of those components. can it be a fuse? sensor? what’s your opinion?

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      • No problem,, i don’t know if your car has air bags,,,,if you do have air suspension then you might have one of the airbag has a slow leak,,,,on the license plate lamp and parking bulb,,,,you might have a couple of bulbs that have high resistance,,,which means the bulb might be getting brown and might be getting ready to burn out..

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  12. Richard says:

    Hi man…hope you are keeping safe. Crazy times we are living in. My 320i with 75000miles has a slight vibration when I switch on the Aircon. Also a very slight whine is also noticeable when the Aircon is on. If I switch off the air con, then all goes quiet and still, no additional vibration. The Aircon work well though. Is this a symptom of a bigger problem coming?

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  13. Brand says:

    Was wondering if it’s ok to leave the engine cover off on a daily driver? My E90 328xi has 90k miles and would like to leave it off to inspect leaks and cut down time to work on car. Anything prevtative stuff you’d recommend at 90k? Already have new plugs, water pump, tstat, cleaned Vanos solenoids. Valve cover gasket replaced around 65-70k. Plan on doing valvetronic motor seal, coil pack and oil filter housing gasket.

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  14. macho7337 says:

    Hello, back again. 2103 bmw x 5 335i gas. E70 I tried to find some or a post on brakes. I have a broken driver front dust shield. With that being said I was going to just replace pads, rotors and the wear sensors. So the rears need any special tools being it is an electric e brake? Looks to me as I take the calipers off. Push the pistons in, take rotor safety screws out, remove rotor. Replace new parts, clean and lubricate.

    Are the wear sensors pretty hearty?

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  15. Richard says:

    Hi there. Hope you are keeping safe. Thanks for being online. Today, I took my 2013 320i for a routine oil service. When I got the vehicle back after the service, so checked the oil level and also if the service meter had been reset on the iDrive. I noticed that the iDrive is now showing my service history from the first ever service up to the one done today. This was on the iDrive screen under the service screen. Did the dealer do something to the iDrive software for it to start showing this detailed info? I promise, this service history screen was not there before today’s service so am wondering what happened to bring it up after today’s service. Any idea?

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  16. randyn63 says:

    Hello bmwtechnician… I’m not really sure how to post a new question so am trying here – sorry if this is not the preferred way!

    I have a 2012 F10 550i with 8sp. Excellent condition. I’ve owned BMWs for 25 years (and have three at the moment) and am fairly adept at working on them (for example, I recently finished the dreaded turbo oil return leak repair on this motor, did timing chains and guides on my M62, clutches, rear axle gear swaps, on the E30, etc.). This morning while entering freeway at speed (maybe 5500 rpm), the engine simply shut off – tach to zero, car shifted to neutral, all kinds of warning messages on dash (drivetrain, ABS, etc). As I coasted to a stop I could smell overheated electrical – not really strong, but I was moving sort of fast. No smoke apparent during or after the event. Oil temperature normal.

    When I got the car off the road and stopped, I tried to start the engine. It cranked for maybe 1/2 second and stopped – as if the battery had just enough power to turn the engine over a couple times. Note the battery is new (and properly installed/coded) three months ago.

    I had the car towed home and ran a code reader on it (Foxwell NT510 elite). Codes seem to indicate an electrical event, and included:
    1A2508 Fan serious defect
    480964 high undervoltage
    802102 Junction box undervoltage
    (plus other similar codes)

    The CEL light is on, and I cannot turn it off by clearing reported codes.

    After things had cooled down I did a pretty good visual inspection starting at the battery and ending at the front bumper: I can see no obvious signs of electrical/thermal damage to harnesses, etc. (of course I can’t see everything…). I attempted to start the engine again, and this time it did turn over – very slowly (again as though battery is very low) and actually started. It ran very rough for 3-5 seconds then died. Now I get low battery message.

    Finally, the “sniff test” reveals electrical overheat smell on the right side of engine bay, betweem the motor and shock tower. Again, not really strong, but definitely there.

    I kind of feel like this could be a short in the starter (?). Just can’t imagine why it would cause the engine to shut down.

    No prior symptoms or trouble – car has been running like a champ (which is maybe why it decided to do this to me 🙂 ).

    I’m really sorry to take advantage of your knowledge while all this COVID stuff is going on, but before I turn it over to a dealer, I’d like to at least try to diagnose.

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts/suggestions,
    Randy

    Like

    • Ok thanks for the post,,,,,first thing I would charge up the battery,,,you have a lot of under voltage faults,,,so charge the battery and then get the car started and check the charging system,,,,sounds like the alternator is smoked.

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Did exactly that last night. Just tried to start the engine: it turned over and started… ran up to normal cold idle RPM and ran smoothly for a few seconds (less than five), then died with a squealing sound (sort of like when a belt is loose, but more “angry” – like maybe the alternator is seizing?).

        Have been fearing a timing chain issue, but for the brief time it was running, I think the motor was way too smooth for that. Will investigate the alternator – I very much appreciate your help!

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      • randyn63 says:

        Quick update… tore down to the point of removing drive belt. Started engine – fired right up and ran at cold rpm, smooth as glass. I shut it down after 5-7 seconds (no pumps, no air cleaners…).

        All associated pulleys and tensioners turn freely, including the alternator. So I have another question for you: could the alternator fail in such a way that it causes the engine to shut down?

        Like

      • Whats probably happening is that the car is not seeing any voltage and it only runs on a good fully charged battery for a couple of minutes before the engine will shut down,,,,can you put the belt back on and check and see if the alternator is charging at least 14.1volts

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      • randyn63 says:

        Curiouser and curiouser…

        Ok, reassembled the motor to the point that the belt is on (fan and shroud still out, air cleaners still off). Tried to enter instrument panel tests but it won’t let me (transmission is still in “neutral bypass” mode and that seems to be screwing some things up – constant error messages).

        Started the motor, runs fine. Checked voltage at jump points with DVM – 15.1VDC steady for 30s.

        So as a recap: was in 3rd or 4th gear at higher RPM, engine died, car went to neutral.
        Would crank but not start.
        Flat-bedded home, tried to start, started but ran rough for 2-3 seconds and died.
        Disconnected battery (I realize this defeats the IBS…) and charged using 2-amp trickle charger overnight
        Started engine this morning, ran smoothly for 2-3 seconds, then died with a “squeal” sound.
        Disassembled down to drive belt OFF
        Started motor, ran fine.
        Reinstalled drive belt, started motor, ran fine. Jump points voltage = 15.1VDC.
        Currently fan and intakes are off (along with all the trim nonsense).

        Recall that of the numerous undervoltage codes I had, one was 1A2508, which translates to: “Electric fan, self-diagnosis, stage 4: serious fan fault.” Yesterday I ran the fan test using foxwell scanner and it ran at full speed. Also the fan “feels” normal when out of the car.

        Next I’m going to release transmission from neutral bypass and see if I can get into the car’s diagnostics menu.

        Like

      • Ok,,,did you happen to have any over voltage faults because that could cause some issues,,,,I have seen 18 volts charging randomly,,,,it might be charging 15.1 volts then it will jump to 18 volts and some of the system will start to shut down.,,,I’m worried about this squeal sound then it died,,,,that would be the belt locking up.

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  17. randyn63 says:

    Understood… I’ve been thinking about that squeal too, and it made the same sound yesterday on the side of the road. And I can’t really describe it in words, but you are exactly right – it sounded like the belt had locked and the motor just gave up (at idle).

    All original codes were either undervoltage or the fan.
    Current codes are battery disconnect (terminal 15, 30) MAF, and Air Temp sensor (because they are all disconnected).
    I removed the neutral bypass condition and now can get into the diagnostics menu (or maybe before it was dumb user error…). System voltage reports 14.1-14.5 volts over maybe 15 seconds – I don’t want to run the motor too long without filters or fan.

    One more note: I get a drivetrain malfunction message, and the CEL is still lit.

    Like

    • Ok,,,,with all those under voltage faults and the fan faults can cause your drivetrain malfunction because the voltage is to low,,,,and the fan faults can also cause drive train malfunction faults.,,,can you clear all the faults or do you have some permanent faults that won’t go away.

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      • randyn63 says:

        So… more strange behavior. Here is what I can report:

        1. replaced the spark plugs since it has been awhile (they were pretty cooked)
        2. put everything back together
        3. cleared all codes using foxwell scanner
        4. started car, let idle for ~ 10 minutes
        5. CEL is now *OFF*, and no Drivetrain Malfunction message (consistent with your information above)
        6. Shut off car, read codes with both Foxwell and ISTA. ISTA says there is a permanent SAE code stored (0751), but other than that they both agree all codes are cleared.
        7. Started car – clearly the battery is low again, but car starts / idles fine.
        8. Drive about 75 feet out driveway, turn uphill. Get about another 75 feet, and under very low load the engine simply dies – I may have been imagining it but there did seem to be a small squeal at the end of the “death”
        9. Car shifts to neutral, I manage to coast back into my driveway (always use gravity when you can 🙂 )
        10. Car will not start – battery is very low again
        11. Hook car to 10A charger, read codes with Foxwell and ISTA: both are in agreement as follows:
        802102 – Junction box undervoltage
        030215 – Sunroof no normalization
        030295 – Sliding visor no normalization
        And of course ISTA still reports the permanent SAE code (I think this is emissions?) as S0751.

        Curiously, after having disconnected the battery yesterday, the sunroof codes popped up as expected. Prior to driving the car today (if you can call it that) I ran the sunroof calibration procedure, and those codes went away. So whatever happened this time, killed the sunroof calibration data for some reason.

        Alternator? Any other suggestions?

        I REALLY appreciate your help – this has become a quest.

        PS: if you have a way for me to send you a photo, I’d like to show you the old plugs too.

        Like

  18. kr4va says:

    where do i post new subjects?
    subj; oil catch cans— does the 4 cycl n20 benefit from oil catch cans?

    Like

  19. randyn63 says:

    next update: let the car sit on the big charger for about thirty minutes – started right up. CEL is OFF, prior codes remain.

    I’m starting to wonder if this is a VANOS solenoid? I don’t know enough to understand/why the engine is shutting down – I’m also wondering if perhaps the alternator is crapping out when it gets warm?

    Like

    • Thanks for the info,,,,good news the CEL is still off and you can shift car into neutral,,,,I’m not worried about the spark plugs,,,sunroof because battery went died no big deal,,,if vanos solenoid is bad car will still run,,,also bad vanos unit bad it will still run but poorly unless the vanos unit is broken which I don’t think it is because you can start it once you charge up the battery,,,,which I believe you might have a alternator issue or something else that is on the drive belt is locking up causing the engine to shut off,,,but then you can’t start it up until you charge the battery again,,,you must have a voltage issue maybe alternator and battery,,,,,how old is the battery?,,,,question when the car dies what is the battery voltage it’s probably below 8volts.

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Battery was replaced three months ago, correct size (110Ah) and correctly coded when installed.

        When I had belt off I checked all attached pulleys – all spun normally and easily. Alternator “sounded” fine when pulley turned, although it offered a slight resistance (which I assume is normal for a large alternator).

        Like

  20. randyn63 says:

    A bit more info. I left the 10A charger on the battery for about 90 minutes, then ran the car so I could watch the voltage monitor over time. This was done using the in-dash “system voltage” test.

    At idle, the reading is between 14.8 and 15.1V. Switching on/off consumers (AC, headlights, defroster, etc.) has little/no effect on reading.

    However, every 30 seconds or so, the reading drops to around 14.1 to 14.3V. It stays there for maybe 10-15 seconds, then jumps back up to 14.8. This behavior repeats as long as the motor is idling – I’m assuming it has something to do with the “efficient dynamics” charging program??? I ran this test for about 10 minutes, and never saw the reading drop below 14.0V – of course I don’t know how fast the measurements are made so there could be spikes up/down that are missed.

    Next, I let the motor heat-soak for about 10 minutes, and restarted it – it started right up.

    Finally – and I did this really out of superstition – I put the car in drive and planted my left foot on the brake pedal, then brought the RPMs up until the rear wheels broke loose (on the slick garage floor…). I did this twice and the motor never died, so whatever is doing this doesn’t appear to be related to load on the motor.

    I’m hesitate to road test due to the fact that the last two times I was out, the motor died. But if you think I should…. let me know!

    Like

    • Ok,,,now you have me stumped,,,,I was thinking the alternator is bad,,,this really doesn’t make any sense,,,,I would think you have to drive the car again but I don’t want you to get stranded,,,,it’s your call,,,,,lol

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        I know… it’s all very strange. And I’m sure it will be one of those things that in hindsight, the car was trying to tell me something obvious. Don’t worry about me getting stranded – I always have my feet 🙂

        Like

      • Lol,,,,ok,,,maybe something with the transmission maybe is locking up

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Last work for the day… I drove the car for two miles. Didn’t die, and threw no codes. However, there is no low-end power… maybe a reeeeally slow bog, but it never really develops any power until maybe 3k rpm, and even then it’s not like normal.

        WOT gets the correct gear but there is no real power. I did not put it into sport mode.

        Also a subtle miss/rough idle.

        Finally, the injectors seem to be ticking (all of them) louder than usual but maybe that’s because I never run the motor with the sound cover off.

        I’m starting to wonder if I really hurt something a couple days ago…

        Like

      • The load ticking noise of the injectors is normal because of the cover is off,,,,,maybe drive it again tomorrow and see if you get a CEL

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Ok, I lied – I did one more test. The Foxwell scanner allows you to deactivate/activate each injector, so I ran that test to see if they were contributing to the lack of power. For each injector, when it was deactivated the motor idled rough, exactly as you would expect. Re-activating the injector cleaned up the idle. However, on CYL 7 when the injector was deactivated, I could also hear a low-frequency, light knock (heavier than a tap or tick). Back in my day (MOPAR 440-6 pack), I seem to remember that pulling a spark plug lead and hearing a light knock could indicate a spun rod bearing.

        Horror!

        What do you think, given the information I’ve provided?

        Like

      • I also remember that from my younger days playing around with American muscle,,,,but I don’t know if that is the same on fine German built engines,,,,lol,,,,have you checked the oil filter for any metal shavings.

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      • randyn63 says:

        So… perhaps part of the answer. I pulled the oil filter and found metal particulates. If you trust me with an email address, I’ll send you a photo. My address is rlacm@cox.net.

        Like

  21. randyn63 says:

    (or maybe I have that backward – that a knock would STOP when you shut off the cylinder… it’s been a long day 🙂 )

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  22. randyn63 says:

    Ok – perhaps arriving at an answer. I pulled the filter this morning and there is a significant amount of metal particulates in the oil. If you trust me with an email address, I’ll send you photos – my address is rlacm@cox.net.

    Like

  23. shepherd7511 says:

    Dear Mr. Technician, 
    I am working on a 2013 early model X1 with the M20. I bought it with 80,000 miles with one owner and a clean CarFax. It was always at the same dealer for service. It shows that at 76,000 miles the timing chain was replaced. At 100 K, I rebuilt the turbo. It now has 115,000 miles. It has been running great. Recently, after driving 5 miles from home, half the check engine light illuminated, but briefly. Next, the red oil light illuminated. Then, it went off. Then, the check engine light came back on, and the car shut off. I hooked up the code reader. These are the codes that came up:

    1. 2DA12. 2DA03. 2C584. 34065. 3408
    I believe the 3406 and the 3408 triggered the other three codes. I know there was oil because I just changed the oil and the filter. 
    My question is: is it the oil pump? OR did the tensioner plastic break and end up on the pick up of the sump? 
    As of right now, the car turns over, but it will not start. There is fuel in the rail.
    What is your gut feeling? Is it the (A) oil pump, (B) the timing change assembly, which was “supposedly” changed, (C) a cam shaft sensor or (D) other?
    I can do the work, but I would appreciate your expert insight into where you think I should start?
    Looking forward to hearing back from you.

    Liked by 1 person

    • shepherd7511 says:

      Just to be clear –
      1. 2DA1
      2. 2DA0
      3. 2C58
      4. 3406
      5. 3408

      Liked by 1 person

    • Ok,,,this is tuff,,,it could be tensioner plastic in oil pump,,,also does the car say it has enough oil to start car? Because if it doesn’t then that could be a problem also the oil pressure switch sensor could be faulty causing the engine not to start,,,the good thing is that the engine cranks,,,maybe the best thing to do if you could remove the valve cover and inspect the timing chain and plastic chain rail and maybe see if anything is broken.

      Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        Thanks for getting back to me. there is plenty of oil, just changed it and a new filter.
        are we talking about the oil pressure switch or the oil pressure control valve? I believe there is both. would this cause a no start situation? I can partially see the chain and the guide through the fill cap, looks brownish but not loose, if it was replaced should it be more white in color, signifying an updated chain and rails? well I guess that will be where I shall begin the diagnostic process, removing the valve cover. if the guide rails look all broken, then I quess the oil pan will be next. if I get that deep is the oil pump rebuildable?

        Like

      • Yes the oil pressure switch and control valve are the same thing and yes it could cause a no start,,,,the guide rails might have stained over miles,,,,and no the oil pump is not rebuild able.

        Like

  24. shepherd7511 says:

    OK, 12618613333 Is this the correct part # for the oil pressure sensor.?
    And. as it is the BC button and the toggle up and down are not operational, maybe due to the fact
    that I cranked in the 5 mm Allen screw to get it in neutral for the tow. so I can’t get to read oil level.
    is the oil sensor like a failsafe device and once replaced will tell the ECU to allow the vehicle to fire up.
    I may have more questions, but I want to thank you for the time you have taken to assist me with your professional experience.
    Thanks, Scott

    Like

    • I don’t know if that’s the correct part number due to I’m at furlough from work at this time,,,,yes maybe lower the 5mm screw to put the car in park again,,,,yes the oil sensor is a fail safe and once you replace it you will have to clear the faults so it can fire back up,,,,question have you tried to clear faults to see if the car will start?

      Like

  25. shepherd7511 says:

    Good morning Mr Technician,
    yes I have cleared the codes and still have a crank no start, almost like the spark has been cut off.
    checking on the realoem site matching my Vin, that should be the right part #. it shows the sensor left driver’s side up on the top side of the engine, sound right?
    I am going to order the part genuine BMW around $60.00 reset the neutral bypass and see if it will start.
    question ___if this sensor went bad would it throw the other codes? and cause the shutdown. the reason why I ask is the x1 was running great not even a hiccup, but I remember what my instructor told me 40 years ago. it’s a mechanical device, subject to breakdown at any given time. LOL ain’t it the truth?
    stay with me.
    Scott

    Like

  26. shepherd7511 says:

    your best quess, did the oil pump fail or the sensor fail? I don’t think it’s the timing chain assembly with less than 30k.
    Scott

    Like

    • I really don’t know without seeing and hearing the engine while it’s trying to start.,,,the cheapest thing to replace is that sensor for now,,,,next step would be remove valve cover and inspect and then maybe remove oil pan which is not easy to do on that car.

      Like

  27. shepherd7511 says:

    I hear you. part had to be ordered, coming from CA. to Fla. says 5-28. so I will have to wait for part.
    will definitely let you know when I get it in the x1. thanks for your patience and help, will be in touch.
    Scott

    Liked by 1 person

  28. shepherd7511 says:

    hope all is well,
    just an update, received the oil pressure, temperature sensor today, will install in a couple of days. Will the oil pressure control valve if faulty cause a crank no start.? The temp sensor is a 24 mm plastic nut, what is the torque spec so I don’t break it, can’t see to find the specs. thanks

    Like

  29. shepherd7511 says:

    As you can tell, I’m looking for all possibilities before I tear down the engine.

    Like

  30. randyn63 says:

    Hey again… quick update from the thread above:

    Bottom line, motor is toast – metal in the oil, suspicious knock when CYL7 injector is deactivated. I think this fits with the failure observed when the motor first quit: trying to start the motor, it turned over maybe 1/2 revolution and quit – like something was seized. This something then cooled down and allowed the motor to turn over and start.

    Soooo…. dealer wants 13k to install new motor, plus 2k to tear it down to determine if I’m eligible for a (25%) warranty. I don’t have to be a financial wizard to understand how this makes no sense.

    I found a local independent who worked as a BMW master tech for 15 years (some of which was at my dealer, as it turns out). He has a busy, spotless shop: the car has been there since last Monday, the motor arrived Thursday, and they pulled the old one this morning.

    Like

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