Coronavirus has shutdown work

It has just come to my noticed that are dealership has shut down due to the Coronavirus,,are dealership was hoping to stay open with a skeleton crew of technicians to help out are customer,,,,but with the pressure of the government and for the well being of his employees,,,,we have shut the doors,,,I will still try and answer some questions for you,,,I just don’t have access to BMW information or wiring diagrams at this time,,,I hope everyone is safe and healthy.

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228 Responses to Coronavirus has shutdown work

  1. Ryan M says:

    I’m sorry to hear that. Hopefully you and and your family stay strong and healthy.

    Like

    • Thank you,,,,all the best to your family and friends

      Like

      • Stephen says:

        Hi there, can you help me or guide me to where I can resolve. I have a 2014 x5 50i. I recently changed the water pump and thermostat. Alls well with that, I’m trying to bleed the system and no tutorials seems to work. I’ve tried locking door, leaving ac button on. Let system bleed for an hour before I stopped the process. Surely it can’t take that long to cycle. I’m doing it now with ac button off with door locked for 30 mins now. I don’t see anything come back into tank or get sucked into system. I do hear the electric pumps at work. Can you assist please. I’m trying to purge the system and keep the needle right above the 1/4 mark on gauge. It seems to be going up in traffic and or ac on in traffic to almost the 1/2 mark. Any help would be tremendously appreciated. Thank you

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      • I have a video on my blog,,,,bleed the coolant,,,,check it out in the search section,,,,also I assume you have a X5 with a 6 cylinder not the V8 because that is a different bleed,,,,also the temp needle at half is normal.

        Like

    • eri says:

      My dealership is open for work. Surviving on warranty work.

      Liked by 1 person

      • jorgegas says:

        I hope you are doing well and staying safe.

        I’m new to bmw’s and have lotof doubts, hopefully you can help me understand my car better.
        is it recommended to update software on my 2010 BMW X6 M? I’m curious to see if a 10 year old computer can recogand work with a updated software.

        Thank you in advanced.

        Like

    • John Duffett says:

      Can you give me a ball park figure on what a euro shop should charge for a valve cover gasket on a N55?

      Like

    • amanda says:

      Hi Hope everyone is healthy and smiling. I was wondering what this code means: Horn cable (c horn) short circuit to ground or defect relay. And this keeps coming up randomly on my car but no codes. ABS LIGHT on my navigation and says chassis stabilization. And in your option what is the best code reader for a 2014 bmw 428xi n26

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      • Sorry the only scanner I use is the factory BMW code reader,,,you need someone with a good BMW code reader,,,,your ABS and chassis stabilization are probably both related,,,the Horn Cable does your horn work and also does all the buttons on your steering wheel work,,,because if they don’t from the top of my head your SZL could be the whole problem,,,,,but have someone properly scan for faults

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      • amanda says:

        Hi what is the SZL ? I saw a bulletin for the horn but not the abs issue.

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      • The SZL is located behind the steering wheel,,,,so that’s why I was wondering if all the buttons on the steering wheel work properly,,,,I’m just trying to figure out what’s wrong with no faults

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      • Amanda says:

        Hi yes steering wheel buttons work. Do you know where the fuse box is for 2014 428 n26

        Like

      • Yes it should be under the front hood on the passenger side in front of the windshield

        Like

  2. Augie says:

    Always appreciate your efforts. Stay healthy!

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  3. MICHAEL WILSON says:

    Sorry to hear you guys shut down. Be safe and I’ll say a prayer things go back to normal quickly.

    Like

    • Michael Wilson says:

      Ok my bmw Tech family. Let me start from beginning.
      1. Took 550ix to dealership, never had a DriveTrain Malfunction, no check engine light. Just chatter from transfer case.
      (Get to shop they test it out transfer case needs to be replaced, Dealership gets a Drivetrain malfunction light. They tell me I need a customer service package done cause of oil usage and and smoke. I don’t let them do the transfer case because I had not won lottery and did not have the 8000 estimate quoted, but had dealer ship do CS package.
      2. Completed customer service pack, car give en back to me. Its leaking oil from front all the way to back number, valve cover cracked, valve cover seal needed. Still has Dtm light, no power, check engine light = bank 2 sylnoids needed per dealership, uncontrollable cold start from Vanos. Dealership says car jumped timing also, that Vanos is working properly replace sylnoids and check engine light drivetrain light will go away. ( I give the ok to do sylnoids bank took BMW lifetime to approve valve cover seal and valve cover but done.
      3. Get car back. Drive off next day drive train error. I Turn off engine it goes away. Start to drive, I get a stumble and or stall it clears up after warm up. Another day later check engine light. A/C blowing warm and cold back to warm. Take back to dealership, they tell me it’s cold start uncontrollable and now we need to replace bank one sylnoids. But it’s not saying bank one sylnoids need to. E replaced its saying uncontrollable cold start a d they now are saying my ac compressor has ceased up. Mmmm now I have a quote for another 6000.00 bmw will only cover 1000.00. But I feel they should refund me the money back from the other job cause it did not cure the problem of Dtm or check engine, on top of that my air is out. The Ac was the best part of the car! Mind you I have never had a problem until after the customer service pack, maybe oil usage and a little smoke if I nailed it. What would you do? I need your help please, please, please.

      Like

      • You realize all these problems the dealer caused,,,when they did the customer care package I don’t know what they did but it wasn’t performed correctly,,,and it sounds like they didn’t recharge your a/c system after the repairs were done from the previous repairs.

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        Yes , I do know this. I also feel I shouldn’t have to come out of pocket at all for anything. This has been an long process and started back in November 2019.

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      • You are correct you shouldn’t be paying for this,,,,the problem is the dealership doesn’t want to admit that their technician screwed up,,,,because then it would come out of their pocket and the dealership doesn’t want to lose money.

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        I guess where I’m having a problem at is making the dealership pay, they keep going back to bmw national, but the dealership has yet to pay.

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        ok BMW Family, So after all the N63 Recall work, Vanos Solenoids on both sides replaced, timing corrected and about 3500 dollars later… I still have a stall on cold start off. 3rd party says its transmission. I have the ZF 8HP transmission, it staryed to happens when you first drive off in regular mode, once I put it in sport or sport plus cold start off nothing. I have changed trans fluid and pan filter, also reset adaptations, fluid checks out to be full still that stall from 2 to 3rd. I have also notice if I drive like a bat out of hell in sport , its a 1 to 2 sec stall from 2nd to 3rd. What do you think it could be?

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      • When you say stall,,,does the engine completely shut off and you have to restart the engine again,,,or are you talking about a major delay between the transmission shifting.

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        About the stall, I don’t have restart engine. But I have no power when I press gas pedal, its like a Delay, but its like the motor and rpm feels like the motor turned off. I can press gas pedal all the way down but its a delay for about 3 to 4 secs.

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      • Ok,,,,do you have any faults,,,I’m wondering and it’s hard to tell since I can’t drive the car could it be a gas pedal issue,,,the gas pedal has a built in sensor to tell the engine how much fuel to give,,,could the pedal have a flat spot,,,,see if it happen when driving really slow like inside a parking lot?

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        I didn’t even think about gas pedal. But it happens only once or twice first thing on cold start and clears up for rest of time i use car.

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      • Ok it can not be the gas pedal because it would do it all the time,,,now if it happens during cold start only it can be a lot of things including the transmission ,,,you said if it’s in sport mode it won’t do it,,,also if you drive like a bat out of hell it won’t do it,,,,,it’s strange that the reset adaptation values did not help,,,,that is usually a good test to see if it is transmission issue but it sounds like the adaptation reset didn’t help.

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      • Michael Wilson says:

        If levels are low, or in that type of transmission,it has sylnoids that can be replaced under the trans pan correct? Of those are swaped out, do you think that would help the stall?

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      • Low level can cause problems,,,I don’t know if you can replace those solenoids,,,at the dealer we replace the whole mechatronic body

        Like

      • macho7337 says:

        Hello, 2013 x5 e70 35i. 100k miles. I was taking your advice to have my shop perform fluid changes on my vehicle.
        1. Coolant $177
        2. Front diff $177
        3. Transfer case $230
        4. Transmission. $1200
        5. Power steering $177

        Not a bad way to spend $2000 this kills me to not do this myself

        Rear diff and brake I have done.

        I am getting mixed reviews on the PS and tranny.

        I have always been a fan of changing fluids. What is your take? If I do tranny should I do the 4 valve bodies?

        Anything else need to be done at 100k?

        Like

      • I wouldn’t do the trans fluid,,,,because we have seen once you change the fluids you might run into other transmission issues,,,,power steering you could do,,,you are supposed to do the o2 sensors at 100k,,,,but I would hold on o2 sensors and wait until they fail and send a check engine light on.

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      • macho7337 says:

        Thank you for the quick response. How about transfer case, front diff, ???

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      • Yes transfer case and front diff

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  4. Randy St.Cyr says:

    Say home and stay safe.

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  5. Jon Cal says:

    I work at a BMW indy shop in Los Angeles. The shop is not open to the public and only finishing cars that are here. I’m working reduced hours at the moment. Hoping to open back to the public on April 1st depending on what govt. officials say. LA City and LA County have declared Auto Mechanic shops essential to be open for business.

    On another note, I have a 2010 X5 4.8i N62 with a slight wobble on crankshaft pulley at idle but when revved up to 1500-2000rpms, the wobble is gone. No noise complaints. My tech thinks it’s normal but have no other N62 engine to compare it with. What do you think?

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  6. MICHAEL WILSON says:

    I have two quick Question. 1. For Vanos solenoids is it normal to have a reading of postive on one side and a Negative reading from scan tool on other? 2. customer care package was done on N63, they stated the timing chain was fine. After given back once completed it now needs a crankshaft seal. Is this possible this failed after the package was completed? Now has check engine light and famous DTM limited power. Vanos are working fine. But does pop up bank 2 and sometimes uncontrollable vanos.

    Like

    • It looks like you have more than two quick questions,,,,lol,,,yes normal readings on vanos solenoids,,,,no the crankshaft seal didn’t fail because of the customer care package was performed and it probably just failed because of age and worn out,,,how do you know the vanos unit are ok,,,it could be vanos units or vanos solenoid,,,it hard to say without any BMW codes

      Like

      • Michael Wilson says:

        Vanos was tested at dealer and they stated Vanos is working properly. I have only changed the two solenoid on drivers side, but not on passenger side. It’s amazing to me that now after package was completed I have an oil leak, a check engine light, and DTM light. Before I didnt have any symptoms except for the occasional smoke out tail pipe and i had to fill with oil. Thank you for your advice.

        Like

      • The problem is the fault said bank 2 which is the drivers side,,,you said the vanos solenoids were already replaced which is good,,,also the dealer tested the vanos unit and they said they are ok,,,now here comes the problem that test is crap,,,,when we run that test almost 90% of the time it says the vanos units are ok,,,the test will advance the vanos units and checks the degrees of advance,,,the problem when driving is that they advance and retard timing it only take one time that they bind or get stiff and it throws a fault,,,,,I’m not saying that’s the problem,,,but that vanos test is not always the answer,,,,good luck

        Like

      • Michael Wilson says:

        Thank you so Much, your awesome. Keep up the great work.

        Like

  7. Craig Lenord says:

    I am sorry to hear that your shop has shut down. I hope you are doing fine sir. I was wondering if you knew if on the n20 engine you could replace the cam cap from a donor’s head or order new caps? if not could I polish them or try to repair them?
    thank you and have a great day

    Like

    • Now swapping and no new ones,,,they are machined to each cylinder head,,,,and yes you can polish them very slightly and try and clean them up,,,,I seen it done,,,try not to take any material of because that could cause a problem.,,,good luck

      Like

  8. nankiboparai says:

    Always appreciate you knowledge sharing and information.
    Stay Safe.
    Thank you and Good Wishes.

    Like

  9. Are you on skype? dfitz21000. I was wondering what you thought about the N55 eccentric shaft issues. Is the shaft actually bad or is it the roller bearings. I have moved them and they feel perfectly free but fail the test. Any insight? Could we get away with just replacing the bearings since I can see anything physically wrong with the shaft?

    Like

    • No I’m not on Skype,,,I couldn’t really tell you what the problem is,,,when we performed the test and it failed BMW had use replace both at the same time,,,,we don’t know what reason they had us do that,,,,I understand from where you are coming from the problem should just be the roller bearing binding up and causing the whole problem and just replace the roller bearings,,,,the only thing I can think of is that the roller bearing might wear a groove into the shaft,,,,the other thing is that you have to remove the shaft to replace the roller bearing, so how much does the shaft cost?

      Like

      • Dan says:

        Shafts alone are $894 wholesale. There are 6 roller bearings at $12 each. Seth says the coating on the shaft wears off. I can’t , with my eye, see anything. I might just put bearings in and see what happens

        Like

      • I understand,,,,let us know what happens,,,👍

        Like

  10. Ymk says:

    Hi
    Im the owner of a bmw 328i 2012 with the n20 engine
    The car has 105000 km city driving with minimal highway driving
    Temperature is 8 Celsius minimum in winter and 30 maximum in summer
    I change the oil every 5000 miles (8000km )
    I’m using eurol 5w40 syndura (fully synthetic oil). Made in holland

    https://eurol.com/en/products/eurol-syndura-5w-40/

    Can u plz check the website and the oil specifications
    Thank u for letting me know if its a good oil for this n20 engine
    And whats the preventive maintenance for the timing chain problem

    Like

    • The recommended oil is 0-30 synthetic,,,,it doesn’t matter which brand company as long as it is not a cheap oil,,,,on the timing chain there is no preventive maintenance on the timing chain.

      Like

  11. Jorge G says:

    Hi, I’m sorry to hear you are also suffering during this crisis, I am also affected, I live in the US.
    during this time I decided to do some mechanic work on my BMW and I’m stuck on a situation, I want to ask for your opinion on this issue.
    I have a 2010 BMW X6 M, it has been leaking oil, after following the leak me and a friend came to the conclusion it was the rear main seal, we removed the transmission and other components around it, after getting a closer look at the rear main seal we noticed the leak was a little higher by the “Rear Engine Block Coolant Passage Cover” there are some screws but next to the top middle screw there is a whole almost size of the screw wholes, looks like that is where the leak comes from, does that make sense? that whole goes deep back to the engine.

    Like

    • Yes this is a drain hole,,,so when something leaks from on top of the engine it will not puddle and it will drain to the ground,,,,check your turbo oil feed lines might be leaking

      Like

      • jorgegas says:

        thank you so much for your quick response.

        I have 1 more question.
        sporadically I get this alert messages on the car “Level control system malfunction” or “license plate lamp malfunction” or “park malfunction” but there is no issues on any of those components. can it be a fuse? sensor? what’s your opinion?

        Like

      • No problem,, i don’t know if your car has air bags,,,,if you do have air suspension then you might have one of the airbag has a slow leak,,,,on the license plate lamp and parking bulb,,,,you might have a couple of bulbs that have high resistance,,,which means the bulb might be getting brown and might be getting ready to burn out..

        Like

  12. Richard says:

    Hi man…hope you are keeping safe. Crazy times we are living in. My 320i with 75000miles has a slight vibration when I switch on the Aircon. Also a very slight whine is also noticeable when the Aircon is on. If I switch off the air con, then all goes quiet and still, no additional vibration. The Aircon work well though. Is this a symptom of a bigger problem coming?

    Like

  13. Brand says:

    Was wondering if it’s ok to leave the engine cover off on a daily driver? My E90 328xi has 90k miles and would like to leave it off to inspect leaks and cut down time to work on car. Anything prevtative stuff you’d recommend at 90k? Already have new plugs, water pump, tstat, cleaned Vanos solenoids. Valve cover gasket replaced around 65-70k. Plan on doing valvetronic motor seal, coil pack and oil filter housing gasket.

    Like

  14. macho7337 says:

    Hello, back again. 2103 bmw x 5 335i gas. E70 I tried to find some or a post on brakes. I have a broken driver front dust shield. With that being said I was going to just replace pads, rotors and the wear sensors. So the rears need any special tools being it is an electric e brake? Looks to me as I take the calipers off. Push the pistons in, take rotor safety screws out, remove rotor. Replace new parts, clean and lubricate.

    Are the wear sensors pretty hearty?

    Like

  15. Richard says:

    Hi there. Hope you are keeping safe. Thanks for being online. Today, I took my 2013 320i for a routine oil service. When I got the vehicle back after the service, so checked the oil level and also if the service meter had been reset on the iDrive. I noticed that the iDrive is now showing my service history from the first ever service up to the one done today. This was on the iDrive screen under the service screen. Did the dealer do something to the iDrive software for it to start showing this detailed info? I promise, this service history screen was not there before today’s service so am wondering what happened to bring it up after today’s service. Any idea?

    Like

  16. randyn63 says:

    Hello bmwtechnician… I’m not really sure how to post a new question so am trying here – sorry if this is not the preferred way!

    I have a 2012 F10 550i with 8sp. Excellent condition. I’ve owned BMWs for 25 years (and have three at the moment) and am fairly adept at working on them (for example, I recently finished the dreaded turbo oil return leak repair on this motor, did timing chains and guides on my M62, clutches, rear axle gear swaps, on the E30, etc.). This morning while entering freeway at speed (maybe 5500 rpm), the engine simply shut off – tach to zero, car shifted to neutral, all kinds of warning messages on dash (drivetrain, ABS, etc). As I coasted to a stop I could smell overheated electrical – not really strong, but I was moving sort of fast. No smoke apparent during or after the event. Oil temperature normal.

    When I got the car off the road and stopped, I tried to start the engine. It cranked for maybe 1/2 second and stopped – as if the battery had just enough power to turn the engine over a couple times. Note the battery is new (and properly installed/coded) three months ago.

    I had the car towed home and ran a code reader on it (Foxwell NT510 elite). Codes seem to indicate an electrical event, and included:
    1A2508 Fan serious defect
    480964 high undervoltage
    802102 Junction box undervoltage
    (plus other similar codes)

    The CEL light is on, and I cannot turn it off by clearing reported codes.

    After things had cooled down I did a pretty good visual inspection starting at the battery and ending at the front bumper: I can see no obvious signs of electrical/thermal damage to harnesses, etc. (of course I can’t see everything…). I attempted to start the engine again, and this time it did turn over – very slowly (again as though battery is very low) and actually started. It ran very rough for 3-5 seconds then died. Now I get low battery message.

    Finally, the “sniff test” reveals electrical overheat smell on the right side of engine bay, betweem the motor and shock tower. Again, not really strong, but definitely there.

    I kind of feel like this could be a short in the starter (?). Just can’t imagine why it would cause the engine to shut down.

    No prior symptoms or trouble – car has been running like a champ (which is maybe why it decided to do this to me 🙂 ).

    I’m really sorry to take advantage of your knowledge while all this COVID stuff is going on, but before I turn it over to a dealer, I’d like to at least try to diagnose.

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts/suggestions,
    Randy

    Like

    • Ok thanks for the post,,,,,first thing I would charge up the battery,,,you have a lot of under voltage faults,,,so charge the battery and then get the car started and check the charging system,,,,sounds like the alternator is smoked.

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Did exactly that last night. Just tried to start the engine: it turned over and started… ran up to normal cold idle RPM and ran smoothly for a few seconds (less than five), then died with a squealing sound (sort of like when a belt is loose, but more “angry” – like maybe the alternator is seizing?).

        Have been fearing a timing chain issue, but for the brief time it was running, I think the motor was way too smooth for that. Will investigate the alternator – I very much appreciate your help!

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Quick update… tore down to the point of removing drive belt. Started engine – fired right up and ran at cold rpm, smooth as glass. I shut it down after 5-7 seconds (no pumps, no air cleaners…).

        All associated pulleys and tensioners turn freely, including the alternator. So I have another question for you: could the alternator fail in such a way that it causes the engine to shut down?

        Like

      • Whats probably happening is that the car is not seeing any voltage and it only runs on a good fully charged battery for a couple of minutes before the engine will shut down,,,,can you put the belt back on and check and see if the alternator is charging at least 14.1volts

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Curiouser and curiouser…

        Ok, reassembled the motor to the point that the belt is on (fan and shroud still out, air cleaners still off). Tried to enter instrument panel tests but it won’t let me (transmission is still in “neutral bypass” mode and that seems to be screwing some things up – constant error messages).

        Started the motor, runs fine. Checked voltage at jump points with DVM – 15.1VDC steady for 30s.

        So as a recap: was in 3rd or 4th gear at higher RPM, engine died, car went to neutral.
        Would crank but not start.
        Flat-bedded home, tried to start, started but ran rough for 2-3 seconds and died.
        Disconnected battery (I realize this defeats the IBS…) and charged using 2-amp trickle charger overnight
        Started engine this morning, ran smoothly for 2-3 seconds, then died with a “squeal” sound.
        Disassembled down to drive belt OFF
        Started motor, ran fine.
        Reinstalled drive belt, started motor, ran fine. Jump points voltage = 15.1VDC.
        Currently fan and intakes are off (along with all the trim nonsense).

        Recall that of the numerous undervoltage codes I had, one was 1A2508, which translates to: “Electric fan, self-diagnosis, stage 4: serious fan fault.” Yesterday I ran the fan test using foxwell scanner and it ran at full speed. Also the fan “feels” normal when out of the car.

        Next I’m going to release transmission from neutral bypass and see if I can get into the car’s diagnostics menu.

        Like

      • Ok,,,did you happen to have any over voltage faults because that could cause some issues,,,,I have seen 18 volts charging randomly,,,,it might be charging 15.1 volts then it will jump to 18 volts and some of the system will start to shut down.,,,I’m worried about this squeal sound then it died,,,,that would be the belt locking up.

        Like

  17. randyn63 says:

    Understood… I’ve been thinking about that squeal too, and it made the same sound yesterday on the side of the road. And I can’t really describe it in words, but you are exactly right – it sounded like the belt had locked and the motor just gave up (at idle).

    All original codes were either undervoltage or the fan.
    Current codes are battery disconnect (terminal 15, 30) MAF, and Air Temp sensor (because they are all disconnected).
    I removed the neutral bypass condition and now can get into the diagnostics menu (or maybe before it was dumb user error…). System voltage reports 14.1-14.5 volts over maybe 15 seconds – I don’t want to run the motor too long without filters or fan.

    One more note: I get a drivetrain malfunction message, and the CEL is still lit.

    Like

    • Ok,,,,with all those under voltage faults and the fan faults can cause your drivetrain malfunction because the voltage is to low,,,,and the fan faults can also cause drive train malfunction faults.,,,can you clear all the faults or do you have some permanent faults that won’t go away.

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        So… more strange behavior. Here is what I can report:

        1. replaced the spark plugs since it has been awhile (they were pretty cooked)
        2. put everything back together
        3. cleared all codes using foxwell scanner
        4. started car, let idle for ~ 10 minutes
        5. CEL is now *OFF*, and no Drivetrain Malfunction message (consistent with your information above)
        6. Shut off car, read codes with both Foxwell and ISTA. ISTA says there is a permanent SAE code stored (0751), but other than that they both agree all codes are cleared.
        7. Started car – clearly the battery is low again, but car starts / idles fine.
        8. Drive about 75 feet out driveway, turn uphill. Get about another 75 feet, and under very low load the engine simply dies – I may have been imagining it but there did seem to be a small squeal at the end of the “death”
        9. Car shifts to neutral, I manage to coast back into my driveway (always use gravity when you can 🙂 )
        10. Car will not start – battery is very low again
        11. Hook car to 10A charger, read codes with Foxwell and ISTA: both are in agreement as follows:
        802102 – Junction box undervoltage
        030215 – Sunroof no normalization
        030295 – Sliding visor no normalization
        And of course ISTA still reports the permanent SAE code (I think this is emissions?) as S0751.

        Curiously, after having disconnected the battery yesterday, the sunroof codes popped up as expected. Prior to driving the car today (if you can call it that) I ran the sunroof calibration procedure, and those codes went away. So whatever happened this time, killed the sunroof calibration data for some reason.

        Alternator? Any other suggestions?

        I REALLY appreciate your help – this has become a quest.

        PS: if you have a way for me to send you a photo, I’d like to show you the old plugs too.

        Like

  18. kr4va says:

    where do i post new subjects?
    subj; oil catch cans— does the 4 cycl n20 benefit from oil catch cans?

    Like

  19. randyn63 says:

    next update: let the car sit on the big charger for about thirty minutes – started right up. CEL is OFF, prior codes remain.

    I’m starting to wonder if this is a VANOS solenoid? I don’t know enough to understand/why the engine is shutting down – I’m also wondering if perhaps the alternator is crapping out when it gets warm?

    Like

    • Thanks for the info,,,,good news the CEL is still off and you can shift car into neutral,,,,I’m not worried about the spark plugs,,,sunroof because battery went died no big deal,,,if vanos solenoid is bad car will still run,,,also bad vanos unit bad it will still run but poorly unless the vanos unit is broken which I don’t think it is because you can start it once you charge up the battery,,,,which I believe you might have a alternator issue or something else that is on the drive belt is locking up causing the engine to shut off,,,but then you can’t start it up until you charge the battery again,,,you must have a voltage issue maybe alternator and battery,,,,,how old is the battery?,,,,question when the car dies what is the battery voltage it’s probably below 8volts.

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Battery was replaced three months ago, correct size (110Ah) and correctly coded when installed.

        When I had belt off I checked all attached pulleys – all spun normally and easily. Alternator “sounded” fine when pulley turned, although it offered a slight resistance (which I assume is normal for a large alternator).

        Like

  20. randyn63 says:

    A bit more info. I left the 10A charger on the battery for about 90 minutes, then ran the car so I could watch the voltage monitor over time. This was done using the in-dash “system voltage” test.

    At idle, the reading is between 14.8 and 15.1V. Switching on/off consumers (AC, headlights, defroster, etc.) has little/no effect on reading.

    However, every 30 seconds or so, the reading drops to around 14.1 to 14.3V. It stays there for maybe 10-15 seconds, then jumps back up to 14.8. This behavior repeats as long as the motor is idling – I’m assuming it has something to do with the “efficient dynamics” charging program??? I ran this test for about 10 minutes, and never saw the reading drop below 14.0V – of course I don’t know how fast the measurements are made so there could be spikes up/down that are missed.

    Next, I let the motor heat-soak for about 10 minutes, and restarted it – it started right up.

    Finally – and I did this really out of superstition – I put the car in drive and planted my left foot on the brake pedal, then brought the RPMs up until the rear wheels broke loose (on the slick garage floor…). I did this twice and the motor never died, so whatever is doing this doesn’t appear to be related to load on the motor.

    I’m hesitate to road test due to the fact that the last two times I was out, the motor died. But if you think I should…. let me know!

    Like

    • Ok,,,now you have me stumped,,,,I was thinking the alternator is bad,,,this really doesn’t make any sense,,,,I would think you have to drive the car again but I don’t want you to get stranded,,,,it’s your call,,,,,lol

      Like

      • randyn63 says:

        I know… it’s all very strange. And I’m sure it will be one of those things that in hindsight, the car was trying to tell me something obvious. Don’t worry about me getting stranded – I always have my feet 🙂

        Like

      • Lol,,,,ok,,,maybe something with the transmission maybe is locking up

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Last work for the day… I drove the car for two miles. Didn’t die, and threw no codes. However, there is no low-end power… maybe a reeeeally slow bog, but it never really develops any power until maybe 3k rpm, and even then it’s not like normal.

        WOT gets the correct gear but there is no real power. I did not put it into sport mode.

        Also a subtle miss/rough idle.

        Finally, the injectors seem to be ticking (all of them) louder than usual but maybe that’s because I never run the motor with the sound cover off.

        I’m starting to wonder if I really hurt something a couple days ago…

        Like

      • The load ticking noise of the injectors is normal because of the cover is off,,,,,maybe drive it again tomorrow and see if you get a CEL

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        Ok, I lied – I did one more test. The Foxwell scanner allows you to deactivate/activate each injector, so I ran that test to see if they were contributing to the lack of power. For each injector, when it was deactivated the motor idled rough, exactly as you would expect. Re-activating the injector cleaned up the idle. However, on CYL 7 when the injector was deactivated, I could also hear a low-frequency, light knock (heavier than a tap or tick). Back in my day (MOPAR 440-6 pack), I seem to remember that pulling a spark plug lead and hearing a light knock could indicate a spun rod bearing.

        Horror!

        What do you think, given the information I’ve provided?

        Like

      • I also remember that from my younger days playing around with American muscle,,,,but I don’t know if that is the same on fine German built engines,,,,lol,,,,have you checked the oil filter for any metal shavings.

        Like

      • randyn63 says:

        So… perhaps part of the answer. I pulled the oil filter and found metal particulates. If you trust me with an email address, I’ll send you a photo. My address is rlacm@cox.net.

        Like

  21. randyn63 says:

    (or maybe I have that backward – that a knock would STOP when you shut off the cylinder… it’s been a long day 🙂 )

    Like

  22. randyn63 says:

    Ok – perhaps arriving at an answer. I pulled the filter this morning and there is a significant amount of metal particulates in the oil. If you trust me with an email address, I’ll send you photos – my address is rlacm@cox.net.

    Like

  23. shepherd7511 says:

    Dear Mr. Technician, 
    I am working on a 2013 early model X1 with the M20. I bought it with 80,000 miles with one owner and a clean CarFax. It was always at the same dealer for service. It shows that at 76,000 miles the timing chain was replaced. At 100 K, I rebuilt the turbo. It now has 115,000 miles. It has been running great. Recently, after driving 5 miles from home, half the check engine light illuminated, but briefly. Next, the red oil light illuminated. Then, it went off. Then, the check engine light came back on, and the car shut off. I hooked up the code reader. These are the codes that came up:

    1. 2DA12. 2DA03. 2C584. 34065. 3408
    I believe the 3406 and the 3408 triggered the other three codes. I know there was oil because I just changed the oil and the filter. 
    My question is: is it the oil pump? OR did the tensioner plastic break and end up on the pick up of the sump? 
    As of right now, the car turns over, but it will not start. There is fuel in the rail.
    What is your gut feeling? Is it the (A) oil pump, (B) the timing change assembly, which was “supposedly” changed, (C) a cam shaft sensor or (D) other?
    I can do the work, but I would appreciate your expert insight into where you think I should start?
    Looking forward to hearing back from you.

    Liked by 1 person

    • shepherd7511 says:

      Just to be clear –
      1. 2DA1
      2. 2DA0
      3. 2C58
      4. 3406
      5. 3408

      Liked by 1 person

    • Ok,,,this is tuff,,,it could be tensioner plastic in oil pump,,,also does the car say it has enough oil to start car? Because if it doesn’t then that could be a problem also the oil pressure switch sensor could be faulty causing the engine not to start,,,the good thing is that the engine cranks,,,maybe the best thing to do if you could remove the valve cover and inspect the timing chain and plastic chain rail and maybe see if anything is broken.

      Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        Thanks for getting back to me. there is plenty of oil, just changed it and a new filter.
        are we talking about the oil pressure switch or the oil pressure control valve? I believe there is both. would this cause a no start situation? I can partially see the chain and the guide through the fill cap, looks brownish but not loose, if it was replaced should it be more white in color, signifying an updated chain and rails? well I guess that will be where I shall begin the diagnostic process, removing the valve cover. if the guide rails look all broken, then I quess the oil pan will be next. if I get that deep is the oil pump rebuildable?

        Like

      • Yes the oil pressure switch and control valve are the same thing and yes it could cause a no start,,,,the guide rails might have stained over miles,,,,and no the oil pump is not rebuild able.

        Like

  24. shepherd7511 says:

    OK, 12618613333 Is this the correct part # for the oil pressure sensor.?
    And. as it is the BC button and the toggle up and down are not operational, maybe due to the fact
    that I cranked in the 5 mm Allen screw to get it in neutral for the tow. so I can’t get to read oil level.
    is the oil sensor like a failsafe device and once replaced will tell the ECU to allow the vehicle to fire up.
    I may have more questions, but I want to thank you for the time you have taken to assist me with your professional experience.
    Thanks, Scott

    Like

    • I don’t know if that’s the correct part number due to I’m at furlough from work at this time,,,,yes maybe lower the 5mm screw to put the car in park again,,,,yes the oil sensor is a fail safe and once you replace it you will have to clear the faults so it can fire back up,,,,question have you tried to clear faults to see if the car will start?

      Like

  25. shepherd7511 says:

    Good morning Mr Technician,
    yes I have cleared the codes and still have a crank no start, almost like the spark has been cut off.
    checking on the realoem site matching my Vin, that should be the right part #. it shows the sensor left driver’s side up on the top side of the engine, sound right?
    I am going to order the part genuine BMW around $60.00 reset the neutral bypass and see if it will start.
    question ___if this sensor went bad would it throw the other codes? and cause the shutdown. the reason why I ask is the x1 was running great not even a hiccup, but I remember what my instructor told me 40 years ago. it’s a mechanical device, subject to breakdown at any given time. LOL ain’t it the truth?
    stay with me.
    Scott

    Like

  26. shepherd7511 says:

    your best quess, did the oil pump fail or the sensor fail? I don’t think it’s the timing chain assembly with less than 30k.
    Scott

    Like

    • I really don’t know without seeing and hearing the engine while it’s trying to start.,,,the cheapest thing to replace is that sensor for now,,,,next step would be remove valve cover and inspect and then maybe remove oil pan which is not easy to do on that car.

      Like

  27. shepherd7511 says:

    I hear you. part had to be ordered, coming from CA. to Fla. says 5-28. so I will have to wait for part.
    will definitely let you know when I get it in the x1. thanks for your patience and help, will be in touch.
    Scott

    Liked by 1 person

  28. shepherd7511 says:

    hope all is well,
    just an update, received the oil pressure, temperature sensor today, will install in a couple of days. Will the oil pressure control valve if faulty cause a crank no start.? The temp sensor is a 24 mm plastic nut, what is the torque spec so I don’t break it, can’t see to find the specs. thanks

    Like

  29. shepherd7511 says:

    As you can tell, I’m looking for all possibilities before I tear down the engine.

    Like

  30. randyn63 says:

    Hey again… quick update from the thread above:

    Bottom line, motor is toast – metal in the oil, suspicious knock when CYL7 injector is deactivated. I think this fits with the failure observed when the motor first quit: trying to start the motor, it turned over maybe 1/2 revolution and quit – like something was seized. This something then cooled down and allowed the motor to turn over and start.

    Soooo…. dealer wants 13k to install new motor, plus 2k to tear it down to determine if I’m eligible for a (25%) warranty. I don’t have to be a financial wizard to understand how this makes no sense.

    I found a local independent who worked as a BMW master tech for 15 years (some of which was at my dealer, as it turns out). He has a busy, spotless shop: the car has been there since last Monday, the motor arrived Thursday, and they pulled the old one this morning.

    Like

    • shepherd7511 says:

      Does this look like the newer updated guides or the old ones – in your professional opinion? Does this look like it has been replaced 30,000 miles ago. I am a little concerned.

      Like

    • That’s really hard to say if it’s been replaced.

      Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        You back to work yet?
        OK, pulled the head cover and the intake side of the guide is in a whole lot of pieces. what a mess. Looks like the chain jumped about 7 teeth. TDC looks like intake cam. exhaust is in correct position. Getting ready to drop the oil sump. I’m sure there is plenty of debris on the pick up. These oil pumps hold up pretty well? What is this special tool to remove Central nut on the cam vanos, looks like a regular socket. does that snap ring have to be removed prior to removing the nut?
        will keep you updated on the latest.

        Like

      • No I’m still at home,,,no that snap ring stays on remove the central nut only

        Like

  31. shepherd7511 says:

    Hey, it seems like I’m just bothering you.
    just say the word and I’ll leave you alone.

    Like

  32. shepherd7511 says:

    Good,
    Follow me with this, Carfax shows that on 11 /30/2016 at 76,264 miles the timing chain was replaced. After speaking to a couple of service advisors that informed me that they don’t have all that information. You have to talk to the service manager who has yet to return my call after a week. had my wife call today and now they are saying that all that information was discarded. I have friends who are service managers and they DO NOT erase records off the main frame of the computer. At 125,000 miles with frequent oil changes and even more frequent Mann filter changes the timing chain set has self destructed at less than 50k miles. Called BMWNA and the representative agrees that it should have lasted a lot longer. they need a BMW technician to verify the codes which I have and to look at the parts to verify if it was. once I get the sump off and the chains and rail pieces and take a picture, can you tell if it is the new or the old chain replacement kit.?
    Glad your still in the game. let me know, thanks

    Like

    • shepherd7511 says:

      Oh, and BMWNA is willing to pay for the repairs if what I asked you can be verified

      Like

    • Sounds good,,,but I don’t know if we can tell if it new or old parts since they have been in the car for 50k miles,,,,what I don’t understand the service records are never erased,,,,have the dealer perform a key remote read and they can print out a CBS report of all the work and services that have been done at any BMW dealer,,,,also you can get a Carfax report on your own car from Carfax

      Like

  33. shepherd7511 says:

    Thanks for the nice bit of valuable information , I will be going to another dealership with the key fob, hopefully they are cooperative.
    I’m down here in west central Florida and I wrench outside in an open carport, just so happens hurricane Cristobal is producing quite a bit of rain so I’m a little on hold till it passes.
    Is there a way to tell the upgraded guides from a design standpoint?
    I mean by looks.
    I have the carfax for this vehicle.
    will keep you posted.

    Like

  34. shepherd7511 says:

    Wow, this just keeps getting a little bit better
    Took the key remote to a different dealership and he produced the report.
    It shows all service like you said that was performed on the BMW, but the timing
    chain was never replaced.
    The other service manager from the dealership that posted the timing chain replacement to carfax still says that they changed it. he states I’m looking at the invoice. but I can’t give you any more information than that
    I dropped that underside shield to get a look at the sump removal and noticed
    and I have been wrenching for quite a while that the sump in my opinion has not been removed since it left the factory.
    I bought this vehicle based on the carfax showing that the timing chain issue was resolved.
    I guess on Monday that another call to BMWNA to see how they want to handle this based on one of their dealers cookin’ the books.
    Your with a dealership, how do you think BMW will handle this.
    I have to try. this just isn’t right. especially if BMW paid that dealership.
    What do you think about this.??

    Like

    • Wow this is crazy,,,you need to get a print out of the invoice from that dealership that said it was replaced so you have some kind of proof for BMW,,,,,I have an idea on what might have happened,,,I have seen this happen and you didn’t hear this from me ok,,,,I have seen guys say they did the repairs but actually they didn’t do the repair,,,and they take the parts and either throw them away or they store them in there tool box,,,,so actually the tech gets paid for the work which he didn’t do and the dealership also get payed,,,the problem is that it’s the technician word that he did the work because their is nobody to check on the work which was done supposedly by the technician,,,,remember you didn’t hear this from me.

      Like

  35. shepherd7511 says:

    Thanks, mums the word.

    Like

    • shepherd7511 says:

      Here’s the latest. Called BMWNA again for the umpteenth time and informed her that we were heading to the dealership 2 hours away to get the work order or repair order on the work they said was done. I have never seen people like this before try so hard to cover their ASS. they stonewalled from giving me any paperwork. But they did admit BMW paid the bill.
      Next move will call BMWNA again and let them know that they paid for this.
      The question is do you warrant the replacement as you do new for the 70k miles.
      If so do you assume any liability for this repair that never made it to 70k miles
      I will let you know the outcome.

      Like

      • Thanks,,,please let me know.

        Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        OK, BMWNA basically told me that they will cover absolutely nothing.!!
        I guess tomorrow, weather permitting I will remove the sump and see what debris is clogging the screen. hopefully something got caught up in there, as to throw the red oil light.
        Otherwise do you think the oil pump failed ?
        I am going to order the whole kit. around $600.00
        includes all the gaskets, head and pan, all the chains and all the guides, all new gears and vanos rings.
        oil tensioner, central bolts, and all the new sump bolts. basically everything needed, top to
        bottom..
        From Bimmerworld., sound good.?

        Like

      • That’s sucks,,,if the oil pump is clogged then I would think that is the problem and that the oil pump is ok,,,my other main concern is that the valves didn’t hit the piston and causing more problem,,,I wish you could check compression but the engine won’t turn over,,,,I don’t want to do all this work and you have cylinder head or piston problem,,,maybe you can do a cylinder leak down to see if the valves are closed and sealing properly.

        Liked by 1 person

      • shepherd7511 says:

        Keep in mind that the intake camshaft is about 7teeth out of time with the exhaust valve and TDC. chain jumped. can’t do compression check normally.
        I would think that as I rotate the engine Manually and watch the valves during strokes, that a bent valve would not be returning all the way and noticeable clearance would be detected.
        I could perform the leak down keeping the piston at BDC of the intake stroke just coming up on compression stroke, valves Should be completely closed.
        The question still remains, do these oil pumps hold up, because that is what started the whole course of events, Red oil light, shut down.
        I don’t think the pistons hit the valves because it is the intake camshaft which is advanced and that would put the pistons away from the valves, correct ? Unless at the end of the exhaust stroke the overlap of the intake valves opening to soon, hit the piston.
        I do know the engine stopped at low rpm, just turned the corner and was about to accelerate.
        Stay Tuned for more.!

        Like

      • If you could perform a leak down would be a good idea,,,better to be safe then sorry, I would hate to see you do all this work and you have a bent valve,,,
        Now how strong are the oil pumps that is hard to say,,,when stuff like this happen we replace the oil pump for safety reasons.

        Like

  36. jorgegas says:

    Hi bmw technician, sorry to bother but I have a question and maybe you can give me your opinion.
    I have a 2010 BMW X6 M with 121979 miles on it.
    It’s consuming a lot of oil I think, around every 300 miles I have to add a quarter of oil but there is no oil leak, where is the oil goin?

    Like

    • The oil is probably going out the exhaust though the valve stem seals,,,here is a test you can do,,,let the engine get warm and idle for about 20 minutes and then rev the engine real quick to about 4000 rpm and see if blue smoke come out the exhaust if it does then your valve stem seals are leaking.

      Like

      • jorgegas says:

        You were right, blue smoke came out.
        What would be the solution to that?

        Thank you so much for your advice and the time you take to answer questions.

        Gracias.

        Like

      • Ok,,,,the valve stem seals would need to be replaced,,,,that’s a very big job,,,,,you have to take the motor and transmission to perform that job.

        Liked by 1 person

  37. shepherd7511 says:

    Somehow the up dated post went to the subject. ABOUT

    Like

    • shepherd7511 says:

      OK, tools and the parts should be here Saturday.
      If you would could you give me the sequence of the timing chain install, starting from removing the central bolt as the head cover and sump have been removed.
      From trying to follow newtis.info they seem to jump back and forth in no particular sequence.
      Do I need the crankshaft blocking tool and the flywheel tool to remove the central bolt ?
      Oh, got some expert opinion on the oil pumps.. They are VERY reliable , that’s good
      I would appreciate to know how you perform this operation, step by step.
      Let me know, thanks

      Like

  38. Hope all things come back to normal ASAP.
    Hope you stay safe,Thank you

    Like

  39. shepherd7511 says:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YNNgGj67DLtg6F3G16SGVbAkbNpFBxm0/view?usp=drivesdk
    Check this out,
    Drivers side lower chain guide rail pin. That has been broken off for quite a while, check out the wear.
    Had to drill it out.

    Like

    • Wow that crazy,,,I have never seen that before.

      Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        OK, update
        finally got the new chain guide pins.
        the timing set which was supposed to be complete was missing the crankshaft gear. was informed that the gear doesn’t come with the set. REALLY!
        who changes a timing set without the gears. not me.!
        at least from now on the gear will come with the set, so they tell me.
        crank gear arrived today, with the laser etchings. All genuine BMW parts.
        will begin reassembly tomorrow.
        question, the main crank bolt, torque to 75foot lbs. then take it another 270 degrees or three quarters of a turn, is that correct.?
        also the main cam gears torque and then another 55 degrees, correct.?
        I believe I have it under control after that.
        will let you know, thanks

        Like

      • Yes that is correct,,,you can put a little red lock tight on the crank bolt for safety reasons and a piece of mind.

        Like

  40. Tatenda says:

    Hi Tech. I really hope you are keeping safe and thanks for being around to answer our questions even if you don’t have to. I am in South Africa and own a 320i 2013 model which now has about 80 000km which have been trouble free except for the expected battery and headlamp bulb replacement. The car and engine is perfect however, I am feeling that it may be time I get rid of the car before the timing chain or similar major issue happens. I want to go to another 320i but a 2019 model and have seen one with fantastic options that should keep me interested for 8 more years. What is your opinion on the B48 engine? We should have adequate sample of engines and years to make some sort of opinion on the reliability on these engines. We know the main red flag on the early N20 engines was the timing chain so, is there a similar red flag to be aware of on the B48? Apologies if this issue has been discussed before, if so, please let me know and I will look for the discussion. Keep safw and thanks again.

    Like

    • No problem,,,the new B48 engine have been pretty good so far,,,no real major problem,,,the first generation had some cylinder head oiling issue but that has been all fixed now,,,maybe the only concerns has been the water pump might leak,,,they went back to the old school belt driven water pump,,,other then that a lot better engine then the N20.

      Liked by 1 person

  41. shepherd7511 says:

    Great idea using the red loctite on the crank bolt, although even with the new style gears with the laser etchings and a lot of tightening torque I’m still skeptical. I’m old school when everything had a keyway and woodruff.
    got it reassembled added some oil and fired it up. took a bit to catch, but finally started and was smoking and missing. let it run a minute or so and then shut it off. checked the codes as the instrument cluster lit up like a Christmas tree. 10 codes present, cleared them and fired it back up.
    ran really smooth with no shake no smoke. let it run for a while longer and took it out for a ride, all good.
    going to add some Seafoam and run it at highway speed to clean it out and change out with some fresh oil.
    What is the capacity, I’m getting answers of anywhere from 5-6.5 guarts.
    It has been advised to me from a prominent turbo rebuilder to use a heavier viscosity
    oil like a 20-50 for the Florida weather, what do you think?

    I want to thank you for putting up with me and taking the time to share your expertise.
    It is GREATLY APPRECIATED.!

    Like

    • Glad to hear it running,,,the engine takes 5 liters oil,,,,I would stay with the 0-30 oil we use it here in California with no problems.

      Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        OK, the n20 seems to be running well with the new timing chain assembly and appears to have much more oil flow after cleaning the small pickup hole on the oil pump. I still can’t believe they made that pickup hole so small, piss poor engineering.
        And like you said, you rarely get a BMW in the shop with more than 50k miles on it.
        with over 100k miles the 0-30 is just not going to cut it. the clearances have opened up and requires a thicker oil film to protect the bearings predominantly.
        I am going with the 15-40 Motul. Will let you know how it works out.
        Hopefully you will be able to get back to work.

        Like

      • Thanks,,,I’m glad everything worked out

        Like

      • shepherd7511 says:

        Hey, you back to work yet.?
        Update, the bmw X1 n20 is now going on 5,000 miles after the new timing chain assembly.
        closing in on 135,000 miles. have done three oil changes since, to clear it out.
        seems to be running smoothly.
        take care

        Like

      • Yes I’m back to work,,,,glad everything worked out

        Like

  42. Tatenda says:

    Hi Tech…hope you are keeping safe. I have a bit of an odd situation. I am selling my F30 320i N20 engine and getting a 2019 320i B48 engine…I figured I need to dodge the bullet with all the timing issues. So last Saturday I filled the tank to the brim and the car will be sold in a day. With the lockdown in South Africa, there isn’t anywhere to go to use up the full tank. Fuel is a bit expensive this side and am thinking to drain the fuel and use it in the new car later. Is there a way to drain the F30 fuel? I hear siphoning won’t work because there is some restrictor in the filler neck. Someone advised me to drain through the fuel pump but that method involves disconnecting wires and stuff and am not really good at that. Is there an easier way to drain the fuel? If not I may have to bite the bullet and give the owner a car with a full tank.

    Like

    • Yea that’s a tuff one,,,,you can try and siphon but there is a restriction in the filler neck,,,you could do the fuel pump method which isn’t that easy and if done wrong you could damage the fuel pump or the relay for the fuel pump,,,,sorry I don’t have a easy way to drain the fuel tank.

      Like

      • Tatenda Kutaura says:

        Thank you for the response, I appreciate it. Murphy’s law says if I try and be a smart guy by driving around for nor particular reason I may get into an unnecessary accident with the car or the timing chain may snap before the vehicle is sold. I will just sell it as it is, try and get seller to pay me for the fuel inside the car. Thanks again

        Like

      • Ok,,,sounds good,,,,might be a good selling point with a full tank of gasoline.

        Like

  43. jricart81 says:

    Hi Tech, thank you so much for taking the time to help BMW owners! I hope you’re safe and sound.
    I know nothing about cars but I really enjoy reading your feedback.

    I have a question regarding maintenance and would love your advice. I own a 2015 BMW X3 xDrive28d Diesel. The factory warranty just expired and I plan on owning it long term until the wheels fall off :). Should I purchase an extended warranty or just save cash for repairs and maintenance? I just learned that there are 3rd party warranty companies with better plans than BMW.

    Like

  44. kr4va says:

    ok on the yota’s QUESTION; after trip and opening the oil fill hole; smokes comes out for 15 minutes,, does this smoke turn into carbon in the engine as it cools, it obviously dont get out when all is done?

    Like

    • No it doesn’t turn in to carbon inside the engine,,,when you get carbon and sludge inside the engine is when you don’t change the oil and filter and the oil will start to burn

      Like

      • kr4va says:

        my chemist adds this .. smoke -soot- said to be a free reactive form of carbon that settles some where is the engine.

        Liked by 1 person

      • macho7337 says:

        Good morning,

        I have a 2013 x5 3.5i gas. I just did pass, rotors and wear sensors. I sued Akibono pads to cut down on the break dust. The vehicle has 95k for miles. I also power bled the breaks with a Mac tool power bleeder to remove all the air and flush the fluid to ensure that I removed all the air from the system and ensure the longevity of the new pads and rotors. I read that the Akibono pads would change the pedal pressure some and make it softer than a factory bmw pad and or a tech star. Finally I did an oil change and reset all of my service warnings through the dash.

        I have not taken the vehicle for a test drive yet, but the pedal pressure still seems to be off.

        I used dot 4 presume brake fluid. Almost a full liter, I wanted to make sure that I pulled all the old fluid out of the system.

        Any idea why the pedal would be so much softer than before?

        Like

      • It could be a couple of things it depends on how the brake pedal feels but it could be the brake master cylinder has lost a stage either the front of rear brake stage part,,,or if you do have air in the system there is only one way to get it out is to have it bleed though a diagnostic computer so it can activate the dsc unit and get all the air out.

        Like

      • macho7337 says:

        Thank you for your quick response. I did not introduce any air to the system. I power bled all 4 corners multiple times to ensure I was pulling clean fluid through the system. I know ceramic pads are much softer than factory texstar, I just did not think this much softer. I was going to bring it in, at 100k to have coolant, front diff, tranny all done by my mechanic, eurotech here in Mpls. Although after doing brakes so many times I did not think it could be any different than other brake systems. I will follow up after driving it.

        Like

      • Ok,,,yes test drive and break in the new brake pads and see how they feel.

        Like

      • macho7337 says:

        Again, thank you for your reply. I have now taken a test drive. The ceramic pads are much softer. The pedal pressure is good. Fluid level is good. And it looks clear in the holding tank. I guess I was nervous while it was in the air.

        Do you have a suggestion on DIY for coolant, tranny and front diff drain and fill. I feel I can do it, although do not ever like bleeding the air out of the coolant. Also I have read there is a pretty extensive tranny service that should be done at 100k valve bodies etc. also the removal of front diff fluid needs a pump or vacuum set up like my power bleeder I thought. Please let me know your thoughts.

        Just a guy that likes to do his own maintenance. Maybe I should stick to the radiology equipment that I work on everyday.

        Like

      • The DIY the coolant change you probably can do,,,,the front diff fluid change do not try and do it,,,very hard to perform and you need special tools,,,,now the transmission fluid you have someone change you do not need the valve body changed,,,,the fluid for the transmission is very expensive,,,,if you have it done have it done at a dealer or a experienced BMW shop.

        Like

  45. Sami says:

    Hello! I have a 2016 318i (with a 3-cylinder engine, mileage about 140 000 km). Recently I’ve been hearing rattle-like noise from the engine when starting cold. In about a minute the noise goes away and also RPM’s stabilize. There’s no warning signs etc and the car performs otherwise normally. If I rise RPM’s you can hear the noise even more clearly. Below is a link to a video where you can hear the rattle especially during the first 10 seconds. What could be causing this and is there something that should be done to fix this or some bigger upcoming problems? Thanks!

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jbUq7S6fZtPaGPk99

    Like

    • Thanks for the video,,,I listened to it several times and I don’t know what it could be,,,,I think it could be the catalyst converter rattling but I think I’m wrong,,,,you need to have a mechanic look at it and see where the noise is coming from.

      Like

  46. jC says:

    Hope you’re doing well.

    I’ve been meaning to ask you about something. What’s your opinion of this site and how does it compare to what you have at the dealer?
    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

    Like

    • I’m doing fine,,,thanks for asking hopefully everything is good with you,,,,yes I have checked out this site before,,,this is a good site,,,BMW site is different and is broken up into a couple of sites,,,,,we don’t have one site that does everything,,,we have one just for parts,,,one for diagnosing,,one for information and bulletins

      Like

      • macho7337 says:

        Good morning, back with a question on suspension on a 2013 X5 E70, 35IXdrive

        I am planning to put new shocks, struts and coils all 4 corners. What would you suggest for removing the front strut and spring. I do not want to remove any other components. Will the strut, spring combo be removable? I know I have to remove quite a bit under hood to get at the upper strut mount. The rears look pretty straight forward. I am going to have the vehicle aligned after adding the new components.

        Any information would be great.

        Like

      • My question is why are you replacing the springs,,,,I understand the strut but not the springs unless they are damaged or you are putting in lowered springs,,,,ok on the front struts the problem is the wishbone that the strut goes into and wraps around the front axle,,,,if you can remove it as one piece and then take it apart on the bench is easier.

        Like

      • macho7337 says:

        Yes I am installing h and r lowering spring and koni shock struts in. After performance and appearance. I am not sure I can get the entire setup out with out opening some of the other suspension components out. I am going to have it aligned but do not want to change the geometry. I would like to drive to my shop to have alignment done. Not tow it. While it is there have them do the coolant, tranny and front diff fluid.

        Like

      • You can leave the lower arm, thrust arm and the wheel bear with the hub on the car,,,,and just remove the strut with the lower wishbone arm which is attached to the strut

        Like

      • macho7337 says:

        Thank you for your help… I will let you know the conclusion.

        Like

  47. Eugene says:

    Good evening, BMW Technician,
    Hope everything is well. Missing seeing regular posts from you after COVID forced many businesses to close. I have an F30 LCI with N47 engine. Wanted to ask for an opinion.

    Car is approaching 50K miles – end of warranty, with only minor issues. Had EGR replaced under warranty was the only code that I had, rest were minor inconveniences. Have the EGR turned off after engine warms up to reduce sooting of engine. This is done at the expense of higher AdBlue use, but car remains in compliance. Took charge pipe off to inspect anti shudder valve for CBU, dirty with carbon and oil build up, could not advance borescope beyond the valve due to dirty intake. I installed catch can that so far got maybe 1 mL of oil over last 1000 miles, hoping it will catch more as weather cools and oils can more easily settle in the can. However, instead of disassembling a basically new engine, used LiquiMoly Diesel Intake Cleaner. The engine did not like it very much, would rev with each spray at first as expected, but towards the end of short bursts, would actually have RPM bog down. Didn’t expect it, but as I would instill more sprays, the engine RPM would drop toward the end temporarily, that part was counterintuitive. But I cannot deny, it cleaned well. Used borescrope, CBU was much cleaner after use, could actually advance borescrope and see cleaner tract. Cleared all codes, car running well. Wondering what is your opinion on using these as preventive maintenance every 10K miles? I know it is no miracle compared to walnut blasting or manual cleaning. But with reduced EGR use, catch can for PCV oil catching, and preventive annual intake cleaning with LM Intake Cleaner for diesels, hoping to reduce the need for physical cleaning if I can prevent CBU. Also started using Hot Shot Secret Diesel Extreme and EDT to keep fuel portion cleaner, since US diesel tends to be lower quality that EU. Your feedback appreciated! I am pretty handy and do all my own retrofits and maintenance, have ISTA 4.25.20 for diagnostics, plan for long term ownership. Thank you

    Like

    • I like the LM diesel intake cleaner,,,,I have been using that stuff in the late 80’s on diesel Mercedes,,,,I like this preventive maintenance on a diesel,,,,it can not hurt only help you in the long run.

      Like

  48. eric says:

    Hello sir, I’m very sorry to hear this news but hopefully you and your family are safe and healthy.

    I was hoping if you can help me dial down what might be the cause of my issue. Yesterday, I have a sudden drivetrain error on the dash/idrive after starting the engine. Engine starts and I was able to drive the car off without any noise or trouble.

    Scanned the OBDII port and found out there are a few codes that appear on the DME section. I have cleared them and immediately got rid of the drivetrain error on the dash/idrive. I thought it was nothing however the same thing happened today, but the difference is I have to clear them 3x to finally get rid of the drivetrain error.

    These are the error codes i found:
    first day – https://ibb.co/37hgw0b
    second day – https://ibb.co/X7gfFLR

    Like

    • eric says:

      sorry i forgot to mention that the car is a 2014 BMW 320i with the N20 engine.

      Liked by 1 person

    • Ok,,,,looks like you have a couple of things going on,,,,water pump and t-stat issue,,,don’t worry about the turbo boost fault because that is related to the vanos and oil pressure issue,,,now heres the problem I’m worried about this oil pressure fault which could be related to timing chain issue and rails,,,the rails could be coming apart and clogging the oil pump and also causing some vanos issues because of low oil pressure….I would have someone look into this problem.

      Like

      • Eric says:

        Hello,

        Thank you for the respon.

        I have since taken the car to an independent repair shop and upon first diagnosis, they said these 3 things may have cause the issue :

        1. Water pump indicated there might have a short
        2. Thermostat
        3. Repaired blow off valve (they saw traces of repair to the blow off valve probably from the previous owner. Seems it has a crack but it was fixed using sealant and glue. However not certain if this can cause all these issues i am having, what do you thing?)

        Image of the blow off valve : https://ibb.co/pjwQKYq

        Do I need them to check if the timing chain guide is failing? Do they need to take the engine apart or there is a simple way to test this?

        I ask because the oil pressure error code doesn’t reappear again after a reset was done. But others still appeared today.

        Codes that appeared today :
        https://photos.app.goo.gl/SmMVDivJKTMTZkRA8
        https://photos.app.goo.gl/uxUxXvkWfP7PmuWy6

        After clearing, these codes remain but NO drivetrain error:
        https://photos.app.goo.gl/NqCkp9zFWX2mVgkD6

        Like

      • Sounds like you just bought this car second hand,,,,What I would first start with as repairs are the water pump,t-stat and wastegate repairs and clear faults and see what happens,,,,you also have a O2 fault which you can fix later,,,,I’m still wondering what’s causing the vanos faults,,,if the oil pressure fault comes back then I would worry what’s causing that issue.

        Like

      • eric says:

        Hello Sir,
        So the dealer now said that it might be an issue with my DME.

        Either my DME is failing or there is a broken socket or a loose wire going to the DME.
        These are the fault codes from today’s diagnosis :
        https://ibb.co/hRgtZZf

        Seems like most of the codes show “Short Circuit to Earth” and “Short Circuit to Ground”.
        The dealer wanted $100 to diagnose and I told them to wait as of now.

        Any advice from you on what the issue may be?

        Like

      • Looking at the faults it could be a DME,,,,I’m just wondering with all those short to ground usually is a damage or cut harness or sometimes a rat will chew the harness,,,,take a really close look at the engine harness and make sure everything is plugged in good and tight and make sure the harness is not cut or chewed or damaged.

        Like

  49. Nazar Yakymivskyy says:

    Hey, I need your help with my 2015 Bmw 750Lix. I cant get the oxygen sensors in bank 2 before and after cat to heat up sufficiently according to ISTA. I tried it in morning when car stayed over night and bank 1 is also not heated up sufficiently, but as soon as i start the car not more then 1min and bank 1 is sufficiently heated up but bank 2 never does. I tried going for 1h drive non stop and scan and still nothing. Please help. I can provide picture if you tell me how i can post it here.

    Like

    • Question have checked for any faults?,,,,,next thing have you checked the o2 sensor fuse for bank 2?

      Like

      • Nazar Yakymivskyy says:

        So the dealer already replaced o2 sensor before and after cat as there both doing it on the same bank. Then they replaced the wiring harness and cleared codes and said issue fixed. But when I ran the test with ISTA there still doing the same thing. And theres no fuse for the o2 according to the wiring diagram.

        Like

      • Is the check engine light on and are you getting any faults codes

        Like

      • nazaryakymivskyy says:

        So currently i have no check engine light but the car feels like a boat now if you know what i mean. Also sometimes jerks in traffic. Is there a way i can post a picture of what i mean that bank 2 sensors dont heat up?

        Like

      • Ok,,,,has anyone checked the power and ground wiring going to the heater part of the o2 and compared it to bank 1

        Like

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