Here’s a little back ground about me,,,I’ve been a German car technician now for 31 years now.I had a family owned German car repair shop for 17 years,,We worked on Mercedes,Porsche and BMW .back in the 1980’s it was kind of normal to work on 3 type of cars,,,,all the German cars we very closely built the same,,,,they all had Bosch fuel injection and ignition systems,,,,but over the years that all started to change,,,,, I then removed myself from the family business and moved on to the R/V business.,,,where I was promised the world by a friend if I came to work for him,,,,Big mistake in my life,,,but learned a lot about the diesel R/V motor homes.,,,,During the R/V years I never stopped working on German cars for old customers or old friends cars.,,,,I was always playing around with German cars,,,,,and I personally drove a old 1984 528e 5 speed trans that I put over 300k miles on before the odometer stopped working,,,,,it still had the original engine and transmission and rear differential in the car,,,,the engine finally was burning to much oil to fix,,,,,I loved that car,,,,good gas mileage and a solid car on the road,,,,After 4yrs working and being shop foreman at the R/V shop.,,,,,I got a call from a friend at my local BMW dealership,,,,they wanted me to work for them,,,,,so I moved back to the BMW dealership,,,, .Where my heart belonged with German cars.,,,,,Where I became a BMW master technician.,,,,I’ve decided to show you the life and the different types of jobs we do and see everyday working on BMW .
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Recent Comments
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Hello Andreas, our trusty BMW mechanic. Hope you are doing well during this time. I really miss reading and seeing your everyday BMW shop adventures. Hope you guys get back up and running soon so we get to see more BMW stuff.
I got a quick question for you. After replacing either the oil pan or oil filter housing gasket on an N55 do you need to prime the engine? I heard on a forum that you are suppose to prime the engine to get rid of air bubbles in the oil lines; if not your engine could seize. And that it could also happen after doing an oil change.
They said that when doing an oil change you are suppose to pour a quart of oil down the oil filter housing to remove air bubble out of the oil lines. Is that true and is that how you guys do oil changes? Also, what is the procedure to prime the engine after replacing your leaking gasket?
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I have never had to prime the engine on a N55,,,after replacing a oil pan gasket or even a head gasket,,,,now if it was a N63 that would be a different story,,,,but if you want to be safe you can disconnect all the ignition coils and crank the engine over a few times to get oil pressure.
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https://youtu.be/0OkXy1UGavA need help
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Thanks for the video,,,but what type of help do you need.
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Hope your all safe and making the best of your time. I was wondering if you could share some advice.How do I know where the leak is coming from if I have oil on my oil pan. Also is there tool to help me see if oil is in my engine, I smell it, after I drive the car. Also do you now how I can get a diagram of the engine and what the component are. Lastly how can I clean the oil off the oil pan ?
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I would love to,,,ok first there is no tool to see if you have any oil inside the engine, the only tool is the one on your I-drive screen that will perform a oil level test when the car is warm,, now to find your oil leak the best thing is to see and follow where it’s coming from, you can buy leak tracer which you have to clean the engine then spray it where you think it’s coming from and it will show a leak after a period of time when you drive the car,,,now to clean the engine you can get engine degreaser which works ok,,,or a pressure washer works the best,,now to get a diagram for your engine that you would have to search on the internet for.,,,now question for you what type of car and engine do you have,,,,because certain engines have very common oil leaks that I can help you with,, because you did get me a hint that you can smell oil burning so I think your valve cover gasket or you vacuum pump might be leaking to cause the oil smell
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Hi so to clean the engine is it ok to get it wet ? Does the oil pan leak oil or is it something else leaking oil on the oil pan ?
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HI I don’t have a I drive screen in the car.does that matter,its a 2009 328xi sulv
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Ok that’s fine,,,there is another way to check and that would be inside the instrument cluster
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To check for a oil leak or is that just to check the oil levels ?
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The oil level can be check though the instrument cluster,,,the oil leak needs to be checked visually
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Ok on your car the common oil leaks are valve cover gasket,oil filter housing and oil pan gasket,,,,since you said you smell oil burning I would think the valve cover gasket is leaking on to the exhaust causing the burning smell
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Ok, here is what I got.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/18txyAUOuNr2ZdthulyLOqHcFFaemPY3qntXtT51I6ao/edit?usp=sharing
As you can see, there was so much gunk and plastic in the pickup, no wonder oil pressure was lost.
I cant believe the actual pickup area is no larger than a quarter, about 1 inch.
Performed the leak-down test and the results are:
#1 23%
#2 21% After sitting and having fuel washing the rings trying to start the
#3 22% engine , these are some good results. held these numbers for
#4 20% 20 minutes each. No bent valves, no damaged rings, head gasket is
sealing. should be good to go, thankfully !
Will be ordering new timing chain assembly on Monday
Looking at the TIS, I dont see a keyway on the crankshaft for alignment of the gears, or did I miss
something. I am waiting for the tooling to dissassmble so I havent had a close look yet.
Updates to follow.
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No key way on crankshaft gears,,,it is just a press fit by torque,,,you will find out when you have to torque down the crankshaft bolt and try and turn it 270 degrees,,,,what are you going to do about the oil pump,,,,replace or leave it?
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Good question, looking at the way that it is built and no metal or chunks made it past the screen and it is constantly emersed in oil, I think it is probably still functional. What do you think. ? Have you had the opportunity to disassemble one these pumps, or do you just throw the old ones away and put in a new one. ?
Where can I find all the torque specification’s for this engine.
Oh, did you check out the photos ?
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Yes I checked out the photos,,,,we never take them apart just throw them away,,,I would think you are ok because it looks like no parts went inside the oil pump,,,,,you will be the first one to find out if the oil pump is ok,,,lol,,,,maybe you can find the torque specs on line somewhere.
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This repair sounds almost exactly like what happened to my N20.Oil starvation and intake cam seized.I pulled oil pump apart and it all looked fine. I reused it. I got it back running about 2 months ago. No problems so far. I had oil analyzed after first oil change. I found it odd no key on crank and just line things up on the cams. But once I thought about it, it made sense. Much simpler to do than an S54 engine!
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Yes the S54 is completely different
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I was just saying that because you really need to know what you are doing timing the S54. The N20 is way easier.
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Wow, that’s not the way it was typed, sorry
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Hi
I’ve just stumbled on your site, very interesting and informative content. I have a 64 plate 228i, n20 engine. Drivetrain fault appeared on the idrive yesterday on my way to work and it’s now driving in limp mode, had an old work friend who’s an engineer and a mechanic plug it in, came up as a turbo waste gate fault. Checked it and found the rod connected to the waste gate actuator looks to have snapped its stud weld to the 90 degree bracket for the adjustment. He was advised by a BMW mechanic he knows it’s likely a turbo change. I was thinking if I removed the 90 degree bracket and drilled it out and used a shoulder bolt for the movement so it doesn’t bite with a double nut or I’ve also found the waste gate actuator online and wondered if this was wise or to change the turbo itself or just the waste gate actuator
Thanks for your time
Sam
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Ok,,,,yes you probably could do that repair,,,,but there is a reason that broke and the reason is that arm on the turbo is jamming and the wastegate is trying to pull or push it back and forth causing it to break.
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is there a way to change the passenger side diverter valve on 2011 550i without removing the turbo?
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?
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Hello Andreas, Very useful website I must say. If you don’t mind me asking, I am looking at purchasing a 4 series (420i) in the UK but I am concerned about the potential timing chain early failure in the N20 engine. I am looking at ages 2013-2015, is it the case that this was/is a US issue? Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Yes I would look at model year 2015,,,,stay away from 2013 and 2014 model years
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Thanks, as long as I get 15 plate or later it will have new updated TC parts?
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Yes ,,,you will have a updated and newer chain design
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Hi, hope you’re doing well. I have a 2011 bmw n55 that has misfires issues. I’d say it happens a handful of times a year. Recently I’ve noticed every time I wash the car, I get misfires in the first run. Turn car off, back on again and car runs normal. I’ve done hpfp, plugs, coils and injectors in the last year. Any ideas what it could be? Any help is appreciated. Thank you very much.
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I’m wondering you could have a vanos unit or maybe the Valvetronic motor jamming during start up
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i have a 2013 x3 with a 2.0L turbo i’ve noticed lately i have been getting a message on my screen when i accelerate or when going up a hill message is trans axle malfunction then once i turn the car off it goes away doesn’t do it all the time car seems to run ok. someone suggested it could be turbo itself car has 117,000 miles on it. I had timing chain and guide replaced about 3000 miles ago luckily it was under warranty. thanks
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It could be a several different things without any fault codes it’s hard to say what the problem is,,,,maybe a turbo,,wastegate or pressure converter ,,fuel injector the list is to long,,,,need fault codes to help solve the problem.
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fault code is 120308
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Ok thanks,,,charge boost pressure low,,,,could be a charge pipe has a leak or cracked or it could be the pressure boost control next to the valve cover or you have a vacuum hose leaking,,,,check and inspect the vacuum hoses are not cracked or disconnected,,,,check the intake charge pipe is connected or not cracked,,,,if that is all ok then it should be your pressure boost control
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so this code has nothing to do with the turbo on my car
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Yes,,,with the boost pressure,,,I don’t think it’s the turbo because you would have major loss of power,,,,like I said maybe a charge pipe is cracked,,,or vacuum line broken or the boost pressure valve might be bad.
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Hello
can you tell me if the 2011 bmw x3 (f25) has a dme relay and a fuel pump relay (fuse)?
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Yes it does have a fuel pump relay called a EKPS and it sit by the rear seat,,,,and yes there is some kind of a DME relay.
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had bmw mechanic check out everything you said that could be wrong with my 2013 x3 all checked out ok replaced turbo charger with new one from parts supplier in California new Mitsubishi turbo charger $1006.00 free s&h no sales tax he charged me $400.00 to install it out of his own garage. So far haven’t seen any malfunctions show up on dash. bmw dealer wanted around $4000.00 to replace it saved a bunch of money. thanks for all your help!!
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I’m glad it all worked out
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Hey there , I was wondering if I could ask a question about a 2007 x5 3.0 engine whistling noise? Cheers
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Yes ask away.
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Hi thanks for taking the time to reply.
I have a 3.0 x5 2007, once in awhile when I start the engine, it surges the a high pitch whistle comes out from the engine. I have done the basic coil and plugs along with all the pulleys and tensioner. To no avail it still persist. I have taken it to a shop twice but cannot replicate the problem. It’s very intermittent, when it happens tho I shut the engine off and restart then it runs smooth … I am stumped .
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Ok when that high pitch whistle noise starts up again I want you to open the front hood and while the engine is idling and still making that whistle noise you should try and remove the oil cap,,,now there might be a lot of suction and it might be hard to remove the oil cap but once you remove it does the noise go away if it does go away then your problem is the valve cover,,,,the whole valve cover will need to be replaced due to the vent valve is part of the valve cover,,,when that whistle noise comes it causes the engine to run lean and cause lean misfires.
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Hi there, thanks for the prompt reply, I will try and do that. Given the scenario, u mentioned that if the noise goes away it’s the valve cover, and if the noise doesn’t ,what would be the case.
Sorry if I jumped the gun too early on this..
Once agian thank you for your time.
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I’m pretty sure the valve cover is your issue,,,it is a very common issue for whistle noises
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Hi there, sorry for the late reply.. been soooooo busy at work, I have placed an order for a valve cover, not cheap,lol.. itll be here in 3-4 days.. I also went ahead and order an eccentric shady sensor since the cover is coming off. I will update you when I have replaced both,
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Thanks,,,let me know what happens
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In response to the previous valve cover. You think ebay’s $100 valve cover and gasket set any good? My brother took his n55 f30 into BMW last month to get his leaky valve cover replace and they didn’t order him a OEM cover but a aftermarket market one. He told his SA that he brought is car to BMW because he wanted an OEM valve cover and the SA and tech told him that the aftermarket one are as good or better and it saves him more money; is that true? If so I might order the ebay one because I’m starting to get rough idle at first startup on my n55 f10 or can I just or me a new pcv cover cap and replace that since my valve cover is not leaking yet and that’s a big job. Here are the links to the parts on ebay that I’m referring too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333231083679
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223346291069
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Sorry I have no experience with aftermarket valve covers,,,,second I can’t believe the dealer sold aftermarket valve cover which they are not supposed to do without your brothers authorization.,,,you could just replace the vent valve to see if that solves your problem.
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Hi there, I have successfully replaced the eccentric shaft sensor and the valve cover! I have also calibrated the valvetronic motor. While I had the valvetronic motor removed, out of curiosity I looked it up and YouTube to check if it’s good or bad. And basically I’m getting a 50/50 result…
Now everything installed the car idles rough sometimes also coming to a stop i shuts off intermittently, is this a symptom of a bad valvetronic motor?
I’ve always had a rough idle but never this bad…
Thought?
Thanks again
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Also on that note, car drives fine, a little sluggish to accelerate for a few seconds then it goes…
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It’s hard to say could be due to the valvetronic motor.,,,,when you say rough idle could you be feeling a misfire?,,,,and do you have any faults in the car?
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No faults, and yes almost a misfire then it stalls. I checked the resistance on the housing of the motor and it has lots, YouTube vids almost guaranteed it’s the motor and most have success. What’s your thought?
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It sounds like it’s the valvetronic motor since you said the engine stalls
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Hello Andreas, having an clicking noise around the front brakes when I first put the car in reverse or drive after parking. Its very annoying and loud. Also I’m getting a pulsating when driving and brake. Mostly noticeable when brake onto an exit ramp around 65 mph down and around 20mph to 10mph.
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Ok the clicking noise probably are your brake pads clicking,,,,they are shifting when you brake in reverse causing the clicking noise,,,,now the pulsating and steering wheel shaking are your front brake rotors are warped,,,,causing the pulsating at higher speeds
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Thanks for the response, glad i asked you for a second opinion because someone told me the problem was the front thrust arms. Since there is no brake pad clips for the front calipers how do I prevent the brake pads from moving around.
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Question does your steering wheel also shake at 60mph and plus when braking which would be your rotors are warped,,,if you brake at 60mph and have a thud or front end shake then it would be front thrust are bushing,,,,but you feel it inside the brake pedal which tells me the rotors are warped,,,,what happens the brake pads get worn and start to shift when braking in reverse,,,nothing you can do about it,
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No, my steering wheel does not shake or vibrate when driving at all during normal driving just a when applying the brake and now that you said it, it does have a thud first before the vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal when applying the brake. Once I let off the brake and get back on the gas to normal driving I could feel a pulsating on the floor.
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